4 beeps on LCD gas furnice...

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  #1  
Old 11-24-05, 10:53 AM
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4 beeps on LCD gas furnice...

I have a gas furnice.
Model number = GMP050-3
Serial # = 9310021786

I have a open limit/aux device problem. I get the 4 beeps on the LCD. I read online and a few sites suggested it may be due cause of snow build-up in the bottom of the chimeny/vents. (The day it stopped working it has in fact snowed, so I thought this may be the problem.) So I took a hair blower and blew hot air towards the vents but LCD still blinks 4 times.
I do not know where this limit/aux device is. I would call a serviceman before I decide bypassing it since it's there for my own safty. I would just like to know where it is so i can see if it's auto or manual type. Well hope you can help. Thx for your time
-Cory
 
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  #2  
Old 11-24-05, 02:21 PM
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See if you just so happen to have a small device that is about the size of a small coin, with two wires plugged into it, that is mounted on the facing of the furnace just above the burner area. This would be your high limit. Then see if it has a little (possibly red color) pin sticking up betwen the two electric wire terminals. If you can find such a thing on your furnace, press down on that pin and see if it makes a click. If so, you have now closed the open circuit and your furnace just might work.

I'm not going to get into why it limited, yet. Just see if you can find this type of device and reset it.
 
  #3  
Old 11-24-05, 07:40 PM
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Thanks for posting and trying to give me a hand. I really appreciate it. I'm a computer tech so if ur ever having computer prollems i'll try and return the favor...
I think I found what you were talking about (the limit switches) but the odd thing is that theres 3 of them. One on the top of the burner like you mentioned, and two on the sides of the burner. Here's a picture of what they look like so were both on the same page here.
http://arnoldservice.com/Troubleshoo...g_Problems.htm
(about half way down the page, it's the limit switch in the middle.)
Yea i have 3 of those and I tryed to hold down the two (blue pins)
(since i only have 2 hands lol) and the lcd still beeps 4 times
I heard the small "click" sound on two of the three limit switches so I thought the circuit was closed but i guess not since the 4 beeps on the lcd control board still lights up. Any other thoughts? lol
The funny thing is that it was running fine until it began snowing...than that's when it just suddenly stopped working. I'm still blow drying the chyminey in case that's what caused the limit switch to open.
Thx agian, very much appreciated
-Cory
 
  #4  
Old 11-25-05, 05:22 AM
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Have you looked at your owner's manual to know for a fact what the 4 flash means?

Most of the time when a system shuts down, you'll need to turn off the power to reset the board.

You don't have to hold the button in.. they should just reset once you press it in.

Have you gone out and checked the chimeny to make sure it was clear? The hair dryer will NOT have enough heat to do anything.. YOu'll need to go up and clear it off.
 
  #5  
Old 11-25-05, 05:50 AM
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Like Jay said you need to power it down for a few minutes then re-start it.

Whens the last time this thing was cleaned and safety checked ??
 
  #6  
Old 11-25-05, 08:40 AM
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Hey, thx for the replies. I had the furnice off for about 8 or so hours when I was out for thanksgiving. Power and everything. Come home, start it back up and nothing. I did check the sticker on the back of my furnice cover and it said the four beeps was due to an open limit control switch / aux switch.
I have not got on the roof and check the chimeny, that will be my next step.

I had the service guy in here Wed. looking at it. He changed a few lose cords and it worked fine. He checked the boiler and make sure it was running safely and he said all looks good. Later that night once it began snowing that's when the furnice decides to turn off, so I checked the LCD and it beeped 4 times (pause) 4 times so that's when i read that the 4 beeps were due to an open saftey switch or limit control.
I called the co. agian today complaing how I spent all that money to only have the furnice break down agian later that night. After being on hold an hour in a half they said they couldn't contact any service guys but they left a message on one of there cell phones that i have no heat and i need "immediate service". Heh, how immediate. This is why i'm trying to do it myself.

Like I said above it looks like I have 3 limit control devices. I did in fact push them all in a couple of times but LCD still blinks 4 times indicating an open limit control switch...I know wierd after i pushed them all in.

Thx for the chimeny hint. I'm going to go check and make sure it's clear of snow right now. Thx agian
-Cory
 
  #7  
Old 11-25-05, 02:34 PM
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Does the small fan runs?

That needs to be running before anything happens.. Tell us step by step what it does.. Or it just sits there dead?
 
  #8  
Old 11-25-05, 08:24 PM
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As soon as I click on the electric...it circuit board beeps once than the fan starts...the furnace sounds like it's startiung up but then stops at the glow.
Yes the fan runs but there's no glow and that's where the furnice stops.
The fan still runs but just blows cold air. Agian...I tryed checking the chimeny and it's cleared, I tryed reseting all 4 (yes I found an extra limit switch) limit/aux. switches, I checked all connections to the limit devices to make sure they all had a good connection, I also called back the service guy but he never called back after my 4 messages on his machine. I even called an "Emergency number" and I also had some lady e-mail a few furnice service people but no-one got back to me I really don't know what else to do right now. All I know is that i'm cold. Luckly I got my kids over there mother's house so it's just me that have to freeze. House is 48 degrees cuz I did the windows but it's still cold.
Gonna execute some jumping side kicks on the furnice in a few to see if that'll fix things lol.
Getting frustrated
Well thx for everyone's help tho, I appreciate it.
~Cory

PS: After reading other posts I noticed this...
Originally Posted by Bonehead
ravi---Thanks. My head is spinning right now as I have been posting in several of the forums here on unrelated topics. I am wrestling with a notion that your furnace high limit is stuck. When this happens your furnace can lock out. But the blower wil keep running. Perhaps by actually putting it in "fan on" mode it is fooling something into thinking all is okay. Maybe. Maybe not. If it were me, I would have to rule out every part before paying for the most or second most replacement bolt-on part in a furnace. I would make sure that the limit switch is closed.

Also, because it runs fine a long as the fan is turned to "on" seems more like something easy to me. Just a gut feeling. Like two wires are reversed somewhere, or the high limit.

But check for high limit first and then get back with us. The limit should be "closed". If "open" you have found your problem.

Most furnaces I have seen lock out and only the blower keeps running on high limit, but who knows how they do it with every furnace on the market.
I have a diffrent model than Ravi but I think this is my problem. My furnace has "locked out".
No matter what I do I get the 4 blinks on the control board indicating an open limit switch. Maybe that's why they are not closing after I click all the pins on them? If so than how do I "unlock the furnice"? hmmm interesting, by the end of all this, i'm gonna be a professional furnice repairman lol. Well on my model at least.
 

Last edited by xxprincecjxx; 11-25-05 at 08:51 PM.
  #9  
Old 11-26-05, 06:49 AM
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Do you have a meter at all?? Takes some reading if you got power or not.


I'd would call another dealer all together if this one is not responding to you at all.
 
  #10  
Old 11-26-05, 12:34 PM
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Dids you check all 4 switches, with the furnace off, to see if full continuity goes through them all? Just because you reset them does not guarantee one is not damaged and not naking contact. The fact the funace said you have a limit problem means just that. As far as no ignition goes/no burner fire? That means nothing at this juncture. For your furnace to go into high limit mode, again, you first have to have the limit switches in operation and can only be tripped out again, by having too high of heat in the combustion area. So,you do have an open circuit issue, and not a glow or burner issue.
 
  #11  
Old 11-26-05, 09:07 PM
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No I don't have a multimeter so tommorow before work i'm going to radio shack and buy a 15$ or so analog multimeter and check continuity through all 4 switches.
Let's say I have a dead wire. Where would I buy a replacement wire? Can I take the wire to any hardware store and ask for an exact same wire?
How would I go about installing the wire?
How much voltage should I be looking for through the 4 switches?
I read last night somewhere that it's around 24Volts or so. Is this correct? 24 V through the 4 limit switches to the burner?
I really appreciate all the advice, thx thx thx.

I'm at the stage of calling another furnace co. right about now. The only thing is I still have a warrenty from the work the last repairman did so that's why i'm trying to get a hold of that same co. cause it would be FREE of charge.
-Cory
 
  #12  
Old 11-27-05, 04:05 AM
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No, you DO NOT need to replace the wire unless the wire is bad.

I would keep on calling this dealer every 1/2 hour to get someone there.. there is NO reason why they can't get back out there! You tell them that if they don't show up soon, tell them that YOU ARE GOING to send them the bill from anothe comany.. There is NO reason why you should be sitting in the cold this long!
 
  #13  
Old 11-27-05, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by xxprincecjxx
How much voltage should I be looking for through the 4 switches?
I read last night somewhere that it's around 24Volts or so. Is this correct? 24 V through the 4 limit switches to the burner?

-Cory
This is goofy, but as much as I work on these things, I go brain dead sometimes on remembering the voltage, if it is 24vac or 120 vac.. Regardless, set the meter to the 250 vac setting, first, anyway. If the needle goes halfway up, that is 120, and you will know which scale of the 3 scales you are reading. So then, if it is 24vac instead, then you will see that reading, also. Then if the reading is way low on the 250 vac scale, you can switch the setting to 50 vac setting and read the second scale and see that it is 24 volt on that scale, also. I THINK that entire safety circuit is 24vac, but like i said, I can't remember, oddly enough. ANY reading at this (24vac or above) means it is good, you can bet on that. When those switches "open" (no current going through), you will not get any reading. When testing for continuity, that's a most simple test and you simply put one probe on one terminal and the other probe of the meter on the other terminal, with your meter set to ohms (perhaps ohms X 10 setting) But this test wil only tell you if the switch is good or not. DO NOT RUN THE FURNACE OR HAVE IT ON, WHEN DOING THESE OHMS TESTS!! If you have multimeters set to ohms (resistance and you test live wires you can burn up the milliamp fuse inside!) When you buy your meter, buy an extra couple of fuses for it whoile there. They sell those. I have had to replace fuses more times than you can shake a stick at for forgetting myself when iI am switching back and forth between ohms and volts. If you forget while on 240 volt tests, it's toast for sure. And you are lucky if ALL it does is blow the fuse and not wreck the meter. So keep your head about yourself and try to remember at all times what test you are doing and where your meter is set to! To get at the fuse, you unscrew that small back phillips screw and the fuse will be inside, along with a 1.5 AA battery. If the battery goes bad, you will lose the ability in the meter to test for continuity(ohms), also.

You still have to find out in the end if the entire circuitry of the safety switches, including pressure switches are letting juice through, when the furnace runs. When making this test, do not simply set your meter to 250vac (or perhaps 50vac setting) and put one probe on one terminal and the other probe on the other terminal. You have to first of all be running the furnace. Then put one probe on one terminal and put the other probe to ground. You can use any metal on your furnace as ground. If you put one probe on each of the two terminals per safety switch you won't get the correct reading because you will be testing in "series". If you get full voltage to only one of the two terminals on any one tested switch, while the furnace is running - that means you have found somewhere along the line that something "opened". You want each terminal to read the same, to be good (closed").

When the furnace goes out you may have to tests where you run the furnace again and again while testing each safety switch to find which of the UPSTREAM-MOST safety switches went out that will automatically kill the power to the downstream ones. It will be the most upstream switch that goes out that is where your problem lies. THEN you have to figure out WHY it is going out.
 
  #14  
Old 11-27-05, 10:03 PM
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I have HEAT!!!

Thx for all the replies to my thread, thx for the explanation of testing wires ecman1. You guys were a GREAT help.

That furnice guy finally called back and came out though (after I bought the multimeter lol...good to have I guess)

The problem lied within the Aux. switch on the very BOTTOM of the furnice. I didn't even know it was there. We both could not figure out why in hell Goodman would install the main aux./limit switch way down there. All he did was bypass the switch and Voila...it works fine now. I have heat!!! He's coming back tomm. (Free of charge) to try and figure out why that limit went off but he said it's safe to run in the mean time. That I still have the other 4 limit switches operating correctly, in case of an over heat.

He's calling Goodman co. as well and going to ask them questions on why they installed switch on the very bottom of furnice and what reasons set the switch to go off.

I may have to pay for a new Aux. limit switch since he jumped it to get me heat in the house. How ever much that's gonnna go for. (I'll look it up on the net.)

Agian...thx for all your replies trying to help me, I really appreciate it
-Cory
 
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