carrier (GE-2825) blower motor wiring

Old 06-28-06, 05:42 PM
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carrier (GE-2825) blower motor wiring


I have replaced my old 4-wire Carrier blower motor (OEM part HC680005) with the GE-2825 replacement motor. It's slightly larger and I had to position it a little shallower in the mounting, but it is working as long as I connect the brown / brown-white wires together. What are these brown wires for?

My problem is that the furnace controller board and the motor itself seem to be getting to hot (smell like hot plastic) after running for about 20 minutes. There was the same smell when the old motor burned out, but I figure that was because the old motor was drawing too much current. Could connecting the brown wires together be causing the circuit to get too hot ? The 5A fuse is intact.

So I think I have something messed up with the wiring, in specific maybe with the brown/brown-white leads coming off the motor? The meager wiring diagram that came with the new part claims that when connecting the motor to a three wire system (mine I think), the brown-white wire needs to be taped off, and the brown wire needs to be connected to one lead of a (4Amp?) capacitor, while the white wire connects to the other terminal. What is the purpose of this kind of connection? Thanks.

Old 06-29-06, 04:49 PM
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From what I am familiar with, usually both brown wires go to the capacitor. Capacitors normally have two terminals that have the ability to hook up multiple connections. You want to put one wire on one terminal and one on the other terminal. Normally white wires in electrical are for neutral. You should be able to call up a motors rebuilding shop and ask them. I do that myself, from time to time. I have received exchange motors that have say 6 wires on them with only 4 wires to hook up and the multiple wires are for hot-neutral-capacitor-several fan speed wires to choose from which are color coded. A motor shop can tell you what to hook up. Heat only systems require less blower fan speed than for a/c systems. And with heat/a/c systems you could very well have at least a two speed motor set-up.

A capacitor gives a voltage boost to a motor at start up. The amp draw requirement to start a motor from a dead stop is very high. I recently put an amp meter on the house wire on the circuit the window a/c unit was on...and even though the a/c unit is a 9.0 amp rating, the amps spiked to about 20 amps at start up for just a fraction of a second. Motors do this. Especially compressors. If you put a volt meter on the terminals of a capacitor you will find the voltage way above 120 normal operating volts.
Old 07-01-06, 04:44 AM
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Motor replacement

As said the brown & brown/white wires go to the capacitor. The motor should have some markings on it stating the proper capacitor for that motor. Presuming this motor to be 120 volts, the other two wires (black & white?) should go to the fan control & neutral respectively.
Old 12-19-08, 12:21 PM
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a/c and heating unit

Hello to any who could help!!!!
I am having a problem with my unit. It will run in the cooling and heating positions, however, it will make the apt very cold but will not heat. The blower rus in both positions and is currently hooked to the medium cycle (blue wire). I have what I believe to be a limit switch which has nothing connected to it. There are several wires that are dangling freely and noone seems to be able to tell me what is wrong, have had hvac techs to the apt and they tell me they have to come back to do work on the heater core (strip) but never return. The heating element is manufactured by warren technology and is an electric heater with integral limit control
model wnr0502
5.00 x 8.00 x 9.25
240 volt one phase one step
60hz 20amp
0803 5000 watts
sn 131639-003-091
tag # wnr0502
What I beleive to be the limit switch is numbered L133-30F

Thanks for any support.
Old 12-19-08, 01:39 PM
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Heat Pump?

Is this a heat pump or just an electric furnace?

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