Totally dead furnace / troubleshooting advice

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  #1  
Old 10-09-06, 04:57 PM
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Question Totally dead furnace / troubleshooting advice

So I went to start my 11 year old Janitrol GMP100-3 forced-air gas furnace yesterday. It appears to be totally dead. The diagnostic led doesn't even blink. I have verified power (130 VAC) across the black and white wires that run from the service panel contact switch to the circuit board when the switch is closed. I also eliminated the thermostat by shorting the leads. Admittedly, I don't know much about the wiring/electronics of a furnace though I have serviced other types of appliances. What else should I check for? Is it likely that the board is shot? Is there a way to verify that? I tried to find some diagnostic information on Goodman's site but couldn't find anything.
 
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Old 10-09-06, 05:00 PM
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Have you tried to take voltage reading between R and C? Should read 24 volts. or R to ground.

if you got power, then jumper between R and W, heat should start.
 
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Old 10-09-06, 05:24 PM
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Red face

Jay, thanks for the quick reply. I guess in my typical fashion, I made it sound like I know more than I really do. I have no idea what you mean by R, W, and C. But your reponse sent me back to the unit to study the circuit board and the wiring diagram on the back of the service panel cover. In so doing, I noticed for the first time a little 3 amp automotive fuse on the board. Sure enough, it was blown. I'll pick up another one tomorrow and hopefully whatever condition caused it to blow was temporary and all will be well again. If not, I'll be back! Thanks again for the reply.
 
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Old 10-09-06, 05:30 PM
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did you change a new t-stat? sometime a wire will short out and cause the fuse to blow.
 
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Old 10-09-06, 05:57 PM
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No, but now you have me worried. Could I have blown the fuse when I shorted the thermostat wires? There are only two -- this is a heat-only system. I assumed that the thermostat is either open or closed and that shorting the wires would simulate the thermostat closing the circuit. If I blew the fuse, then there was already another problem before that happened. I guess I'll find out when I replace it.
 
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Old 10-09-06, 06:43 PM
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Fuse

Do yourself a big favor. Pick up a pack of fuses. They usually come 4 or 5 to a pack. If just replacing the fuse bails you out, keep the spares either taped to the furnace or sitting in the burner compartment. Sooner or later you will need another.
 
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Old 10-10-06, 06:13 PM
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check the interlock(door) switch.
 
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Old 10-11-06, 08:41 AM
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Bad news. When I replace the blown fuse and apply power, I get a hum for about 1 second and then the fuse blows.

What could that mean?
 
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Old 10-11-06, 08:48 AM
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Seems like low voltage is shorting out somewhere.

Remove the t-stat wire on the board, and try again.. Make sure you make note what wire goes to where.
 
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Old 10-13-06, 09:31 AM
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Okay, another update.

I finally just went and called a pro. He verified that the board was bad and had one on hand for it. He replaced it and left. I was not home but my son said the heat was working when the repair guy left. But when I got home it was not working! This time the board would blink once, then nothing. Fortunately, I had not yet paid the guy. I called the guy back and he came back the next day. Finally, he told me that the board he installed "must be bad." He said he eliminated all other possibilities. But he didn't sound real sure of himself. He didn't have any more boards to test. We live in a rural area but I work in the city. So I picked up a new board today. I was planning to install it myself this evening. I really don't have a lot of confidence in this local repair guy anymore. But now I am worried -- if the problem lies elsewhere, is it possible that installing the board could damage or destroy it? I'm thinking that might be what happened before. I'm used to working on PCs -- except in rare circumstances, it's generally safe to swap out components until you find the culprit, so that is my bias when troubleshooting. But I don't know squat about furnaces!

I guess what I'm asking you experts is:

Is it possible to damage a new board by connecting it to a bad system?

and if so,

Is there a way to eliminate any likely threats before installing the board?
 
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Old 10-13-06, 07:13 PM
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Thumbs up

Well, I went ahead and installed the board... and it seems to be doing the trick. Been running four about 3 hours now and all seems well.

Thanks to all who offered advice. You guys are very helpful. I'm going to really enjoy being a part of this site.
 
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Old 10-13-06, 07:26 PM
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Thanks keeping us posted.

Are you going to try to return the other board?
 
  #13  
Old 10-14-06, 11:52 AM
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I'm not sure what to do about the other board. I have not paid the service guy anything yet. When he initially installed his board, he left an invoice but I have not paid him yet. The invoice did not break down the cost for the part, it just had a total amount.

Since he did correctly diagnose that problem as a bad board and since he made two service calls, I figure I owe him for his time. But I shouldn't have to pay him for a bad board. I'm going to call him and tell him to bring me a new invoice for the initial service call only and pick up the bad board.

Is that fair?
 
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Old 10-14-06, 05:05 PM
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Fair?

I think it is fair. If he will or not, who knows. Since the invoice did not show a parts/labor breakdown, I have to presume he does his billing on a flat rate system.
 
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Old 01-03-08, 02:01 PM
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goodman gmp100-3 problems

I have been experiencing problems with my furnace for the entire season. It all started with my sweetie telling me the furnace was making a strange kind of noise. It seemed that the draft inducer fan motor had seized up. Well a couple of good raps with the handle of a screwdriver and the darned thing started to work again. It has all been downhill from there. Started reading the forums in this site and investigating prices and all that good stuff. I call myself a doityourselfer with a PhD.

Next the unit would start up try to light and fail. Tried resetting the rollout switches and it would work for a while and stop. Tried cleaning the flame sensor and that helped somewhat. Sometimes it would work for days and then all of a sudden in the middle of the night, bam!!!, no heat. I noticed that I could turn the flame sensor in its holder until it tightened and that worked for a while. I could go on with this saga for pages but I need to get to the right now.

Three blinks from the red LED; turn the power switch off and back on got steady light but nothing else. Put moderate pressure on the big chip on the HSI module and the unit begins to work again. Sometimes I can see a small spark around one of the small black boxes near the bottom of the board. I pulled the board out to inspect it for burns or loose connections but noticed nothing of consequence. It used to be for days , but recently it can be as much as 5-6 times per day.

Here's my dilemna. I'm almost certain that i'm going to have to replace the draft inducer assembly or the HSI module or both. I'm hoping somebody has the tip I need before spending
money I don't need to.

I'm new to the forum so I hope i didn't use up too much space but I NEED HELP PLEASE!!
 
  #16  
Old 01-03-08, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by pkoutoul View Post
Bad news. When I replace the blown fuse and apply power, I get a hum for about 1 second and then the fuse blows.

What could that mean?

Shorting the two thermostat wires together wont blow the ignition control module fuse. But shorting one of the thermostat wires to ground frequently will.

Fairly often, the cause of a blown fuse is thermostat wires that have been caught in some sheet metal ductwork which cuts through the insualtion and causes the short. So I'd check that carefully.

Another option would be to start by disconnecting the thermostat wires at the furnace and using an ohmmeter to find out whether you have a short cicuit between the thermostat wires and ground. If you do, then track it down starting with wires in contact with sheet metal.
 
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Old 01-03-08, 03:11 PM
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ratter,

All or most of your attempts may simply be coincidences as to how you think you got it to go, since your problem is intermittent.

Does that HSI only glow sometimes or always, during ignition attempts?
 
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Old 01-03-08, 03:18 PM
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Yes, ratter. You need a more scientific approach that banging, poking and prodding at random on the off chance that something might turn up.


For openers, if you are convinced that the inducer motor was seized up, check for any oil ports that should be lubricated, take the motor and housing off and inspect the fan for any binding or reluctance to start once it's switched on, or any massing fan parts or debris inside the furnace in the vicinity of the inducer motor.


I've never encountered a seized inducer motor that responded much to being banged on, but anything is possible.
 
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Old 01-05-08, 10:36 AM
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Thanks SeattlePioneer and ecman51 for responding.
I hope you guys will bear with me as I'm new to this site and forums in general.

Answer to ecman51. the HSI always fires up on cue ONCE the draft inducer motor gets up to speed and sustains itself.

SeattlePioneer I did some voltage checks and tried to pay a little more attention to what was going on. The thermostat will call for heat; the draft inducer motor[DIM] will either start and stop, attempt to start and not get up to speed, or make little bumping sounds as if it wants to start, or start successfully on its own [no prodding around]. I get about 26V at one side of the pressure switch terminal and 0V at the other side. If the DIM starts the 26V appears on both terminals. The voltage at one terminal of the DIM is 118V if it is running and 0V it if does not begin to turn. I get 0V all the time at the other terminal which I guess would be the neutral connection. I take all measurements with reference to the metal cage as a ground.

I have noticed that the connections on the DIM are loose so I have to be really careful not to severe the wires. I have no idea how that occured. It happened before my time. However I noticed at the last incident that while I was trying to get a reading on the low side of the DIM that it attempted to start and finally did but I'm not sure that it started due to the movement of the terminal or not. I'm sure that the terminals should be stable but who knows.

After the last cycling of the unit [once the thermostat was satisfied] I took readings at the high limit terminals and was reading 26V at both terminals. Next I raised the set temperature at the thermostat [from about 72 to 80]. Thermostat called for heat and the process starts over.
I removed the rubber tube at the pressure switch and blew through it to the DIM while this was going on and it would not turn; blew through from the DIM to the pressure switch side and could hear the switch activating [I'd guess]; checked voltage at the switch 26V at the one side 0V at the other I even tried giving it a free spin to start but it would not start. The LED was lit continuous. When I get back I'll see if it started or went into lockout [3 blinks]
 
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Old 01-05-08, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ratterJ1 View Post
Thanks SeattlePioneer and ecman51 for responding.
Answer to ecman51. the HSI always fires up on cue ONCE the draft inducer motor gets up to speed and sustains itself.
And I read the whole rest of your post, and there is a contadiction in the very fact of how furnaces work - is that if the ignitor glows that means the DIM and pressure switch have proven to the furnace that it can go ahead and light up the furnace. If there is failure even in the process of doing so, because the DIM or pressure switch function has failed, the ignitor will imediately stop glowing. ALL furnaces to my knowledge behave that way. All.

So that means that your ignitor must NOT always keep glowing.

And if it does?: Either the ignitor is putting out a weak glow and is not quite enough to ignite the gas, or due to it's location it is not close enough to the gas and the furnace shuts the gas down before it has a chance to light with an explosion ( a delay in ignition will occur if the gas is too far away from the ignition source), or the ignition module is not sending current to the gas valve to ignite, or the gas valve is faulty.

If the DIM starts grinding away or is some other way faulty, and causes the furnace to lose it's full drafting capabilities, the ignitor will shut off. And if the furnace was already running with the burners going, and the problem occured, the flame too would shut off.

We can assist you wtih testing for these various things if you like.
 
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Old 01-05-08, 03:26 PM
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I'd start by replacing the connections on the wires for the inducer motor that are not making reliable coinnections.

Then, go back and determine whether the inducer motor is still operating eratically. If the proper voltage is supplied to the motor, it should start up smoothly every time.

If the inducer motor isn't operating properly, replace it. Often you need to replace the inducer motor assembly, including the fan since the fan is often corroded on and not practical to remove.

Once that's replaced check again to see if the furnace is operating properly and reliably, or whether there are further troubles that need to be investigated.
 
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Old 01-06-08, 12:53 PM
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Okay let me start with ecman. Sorry if I misled you. The igniter glows and the burner lites "IF" the DIM gets up to speed and sustains itself. If this happens then the igniter will go out as you so described. However if the DIM stops running then the flame goes out and the main blower continues to run until the limit control says for it to stop "IF" the DIM doesn't kick back in before the limit activates.

So Seattle it's not the wire leads going to the inducer motor that are loose, it's the inducer motor connecting terminals themselves. You know, the ones where the motor windings are attached. It appears that whatever used to hold them secure is no longer there. If at all possible I would prefer to do some more investigating before I purchase another DIM. Most of the time the DIM will not make any strange kinds of noises when it starts. By that I mean it sounds like a motor starting. It's not grinding or anything like that WHEN it's running. I would be interested in doing further checks if you could assist me.

It seems to me that something prompts the DIM to start. I thought it would be the pressure switch but if I'm hearing you guys correctly the pressure switch responds to the running of the DIM right? So the thermostat calls for heat then something has to prompt the DIM to start. I'm beginning to question whatever that something is due to the fact that when that something seems to be present then the DIM is operational and the furnace cycles the way it should.
Anybody know where you can get schematics of the control module or some kind of service manual that will give you test point locations or something of the sort.

Well again thanks for the help. I'll wait for your reply.
 
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Old 01-06-08, 01:12 PM
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Often the ignition module will have connections to control and power the inducer motor, but there could be a separate relay for that. As you suggest, the pressure switch doesn't control the indicer motor.


Usually there is a schematic diagram of the furnace on the sheet metal cover for the fan compartment, although it can be located elsewhere. That should tell you how the inducer motor is controlled and powered.

The schematic diagram usually does not detail the wiring inside control modules, but you can check and see.

The usual mthod of diagnosing problems with control modules is to treat them as unknown black boxes that are expected to power certain output connections if the proper power inputs are provided. If the inputs are correct and you don't get the proper outputs, the control is no good and should be replaced.
 
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Old 01-06-08, 01:31 PM
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Gmp-100

The DIM is powered from the circuit board. The terminals should be marked but if not, simply trace the wires from the motor to the board. One will go to a strip with several neutrals & the other to the power terminal for the DIM.
 
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Old 01-06-08, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ratterJ1 View Post
However if the DIM stops running then the flame goes out and the main blower continues to run until the limit control says for it to stop "IF" the DIM doesn't kick back in before the limit activates.
When the 24 volt circuit shuts off somewhere, like if the thermostat reaches set point, for one thing, then both the flame and ventor motor will stop at the same time, but the blower motor will continue to recover heat from the furnace for a while.

The draft inducer motor is run off a "sequencer" relay that has both 24v and 110 volt wires plugged into it. Thermostat 24 volts "closes" causing 110 volt in the sequencer to get draft inducer going.

The draft inducer motor will continue to run if the pressure switch circuit is disrupted, but the flame will immediately shut off becasue the wire coming out of the pressure switch goes directly into the ignition module which controls the ignition and gas valves, but not the draft inducer motor to my recollection on the various furnace brands I have worked on. (Numerous, but far from all) I can't ever recall seeing the abbreviation on any module plug-in that refers to draft inducer (or ventor).

What I have said here may help you in testing and coming to certain conclusions. If one understands certain fundamentals and are handy, you can often reach the conclusions you need, if you have a test meter.

It seems to me that something prompts the DIM to start.
Sequencer.

I thought it would be the pressure switch but if I'm hearing you guys correctly the pressure switch responds to the running of the DIM right?
Yes. That is how the suction occurs in the switch is from what the DIM is creating by being on. And if the DIM is faulty or weak, the PS may then be on the cusp of working one moment and not the next. On DIM's with exposed plungers you can actually see the action (without having to have a voltmeter attached to the terminals) going as to how far the plunger moves and if it might be on the cusp.

So the thermostat calls for heat then something has to prompt the DIM to start.
Sequencer.


Anybody know where you can get schematics of the control module
Not necessary really. Process of a few eliminations should tell you if you have module/board failure. The one I just replaced I did so successfully because I had current through the pressure switch into the module, but had no spark for the sparker and tested the sparker right at the module and had none. That sealed it.

On open solid circuit boards as opposed to the sealed ignition modules, there was at least one very resourceful poster here who had found an arced part soldered onto the board and they resoldered or soldered on new part, without replacing the entire board. But people like this are the exception.

I had one 2 years ago where I found an arced part on an open control board and it arced to the furnace sheetmetal. I bought a new designed board that due to service bulletin on the bad board I replaced, they redesigned it, and the new one you had to be careful of where you replugged in about a dozen wires, because they rearranged all the locations of the spades.

......................

Grady must have posted while I was in the middle of this spiel. So it sounds like if you have the board, then I'd say the sequencer (or it's equivelent to change 24volts to 110) is right on that board. In other furnaces with those closed ignition modules, often the sequencer is simply mounted somewhere near where all the wires enter the furnace and near where the transformer is.
 
  #26  
Old 01-07-08, 08:03 AM
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You guys are fantastic. Thanks Grady for jumping in. It is precisely as you described it. I'm still digesting the information all of you gave me. I will check for continuity readings from the control board to the DIM and see what comes up. If those readings prove to be on target I was thinking about hooking my meter up between the DIM and the control board to see what Kind of current draw it's pulling when the DIM is trying to start. Any idea what it should be? I'll let you know what I find out.

Right now the furnace has been operating properly for the past 24 hours or more. Don't want to get my hopes up but the last thing that occured was it went into lockout, as I'd supposed it would, [1-5-08; 1:36PM], but to reset it this time I unscrewed the fuse near the power switch enough to break the connection and screwed it back in. Got a quick 'BMP' sound like the DIM was trying to start, so I primed it by rapidly unscrewing and screwing the fuse in to break the connection and it started after about 4-5 breaks.With each break I was getting the BPM sound.
I figure you guys are either laughing yourselves silly or fast approaching total disgust at my methods. That happened before I read your last posts so I don't want you to think I'm not giving heed to your directions.

So Seattle, I know replacing the control module as you say is the "norm" and I probably will if I can assure myself that's the real culprit. I have a responsibility to others I need to satisfy before I begin to replace components. I'll check to see how informative the diagram attached to the unit is, I think it is on the blower compartment cover. I'll also take a closer look at the DIM connections. I don't even want to touch them too much for fear of having to replace it regardless of what's really causing the problem.

Thanks, I really appreciate your help.
 
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Old 01-07-08, 03:54 PM
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Goodman

I worked on one today doing exatly the same thing. A relay on the board was bad. Replaced the board, all is well. The board you want is a Goodman part #B18099-13. If your board is an earlier version (lower number after the dash) you may have to make some wiring modifications but everything you need & instructions are included with the 13 board.
 
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Old 01-09-08, 06:03 AM
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Thanks Grady. I'm still waiting for the unit to malfunction again. I know it isn't cured yet but I still had some other questions in mind. I've already began to look for another board locally, just got to get past the cost. That hurts!! I'd also like to see if I can find that relay some where and change it out.

Well I'll post back in a few days to let you know the progress.
 
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Old 01-18-08, 05:37 AM
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Well my honeymoon ended a couple of days ago as I expected . Haven't been able to do anything with it though.I still would like to find out where I can find that darned relay. If I go ahead and change the control board with all the additional modifications then I wonder if I'll ever find the root cause. Anyways I'll be posting back.
 
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Old 01-18-08, 06:21 PM
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Can you describe that board of yours (name, model,number of wires hooked up to it). Photo? There should be a way to determine from where it get's it's power (often through pressure switch) and then determining best way to test to see where you are losing power (IF it is losing power to it upstream, at all) when it quits.
 
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Old 01-22-08, 10:19 AM
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ecman51
I read your post on the same day. Just now got a chance to do anything. The unit is a Goodman furnace [heat only] model GMP100-3 s/n 9501110133. I think the board # is B100099-06 or maybe B18099-06 (couldn't see too clearly).

As I look into the blower compartment the board is mounted almost center [horizontal] of the blower cage nearer the bottom, held in place by four plastic pieces at the corners of the board. The 24V transformer is mounted near the top left of the board. [Switched the black and white leads at the transformer. The black was connected to the common lug and the white to the 120V (ac) lug. I didn't suppose it would make a difference but you never know.] OK back to the board. The lower left side of the board has the thermostat connections (3) w/r/g top to bottom, Bottom left black/ red 24V transformer connection. Black is common to grounded lug of transformer. Next to the right a 6 pin connector with RRYYVG wires to inter compartment connector. Next to the right is a neutral block with 5 white wires one from the main power switch. Bottom right corner are two black wires one (rightmost) to the main power switch. Right side of the board from the bottom inducer connection black wire; next up igniter wire black; next up blower motor connections R/Or/Y/Black (from bottom to top). I think there are four mini sealed relay boxes on this board. From top right down two larger and then two smaller. I think the inducer relay is the third (one of the smaller ones) from the top.

Well I hope I didn't make this too confusing. I'll check back to see what you reply. Thanks again
 
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Old 01-22-08, 04:42 PM
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Have you actually seen/heard the DIM try to stop before the flame stops, or are they shutting off at the same time? If the thermostat shuts off, the thermostat and DIM both shut off. That thermostat circuit therefore could be tested, to rule that out as the culprit of the sporadic behavior, to see if that ever stops producing 24 volts, when it SHOULD be producing it.

If any of the low voltage safety devices are shutting down, then the ignition will stop and the draft inducer motor, if it was all ready running, may continue to run, I believe. You can test for this by experimenting with this on your own furnace by unplugging the vacuum tube from the pressure switch to see. That will answer possible questions for you, when you consider the behavior of your furnace. Test must be done while the furnace is operating properly.

You can easily test for voltage going to the DIM to see if you have 120 current going there, but yet the DIM stops, let's say. Obviously then, the DIM would be faulty.

IF the problem is the sequencer relay on your board, and you identify which of the 4 boxes it is, you may have a problem in trying to get a new one without having to get the entire board. Have you tried to look into this?

This might be a long shot, but maybe if you called around to a smaller HVAC guy who operates out of his house, he might be more likely to strip and save parts, or steer you to who he might know that might. I have always found these types of guys to be most helpful in many ways. Locally where I am am at, I got one guy to sell me new stuff out of his work van at all hours of the day and night, even though the rental outfits I work for never even used his services! And another such outfit would sell me good used parts he salvaged, and we never hired out HIS services either.
 
  #33  
Old 01-22-08, 05:32 PM
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Board

Your board is a B18099-06. Current replacement is a
B18099-13. You can check for 120v between terminals "DIM" & neutral. If you get 120v & the motor is not running, the problem is the motor. If on a call for heat, the motor does not run & 120v is not present, the problem is the board. My money's on the board being bad.
 
  #34  
Old 02-02-08, 11:38 AM
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Question Goodman Control Board Status Light

I have a Goodman B18099-06 control module. The status light is blinking 3 times.

Does anyone either know the meaning of this diagnostic code or know where a reference manual can be downloaded or obtainted?

Thanks,
Needing Help in Conroe.
 
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Old 02-09-08, 07:07 AM
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It's me!!! I'm back!!
Thanks Grady and ECman. I've rtead your posts within a couple days of you posting. I've been observing the nature of the beast, but I'll get back to that later.
In response to prorege, the diagnostic code is located on the inside cover of the lower [blower] compartment. Just in case yours is missing here are the codes. Maybe somebody else may need them as well.
# blinks probable cause check
1 blink equipment problem gas flow; gas pressure,
ignition failure gas valve, flame sensor

2 blinks closed pressure pressure switch
switch stuck closed

3 blinks pressure switch ventor [DIM]
failure to close pressure switch
vent blockage

4 blinks open limit switch main limit open
 
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Old 02-09-08, 07:47 AM
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It's me!!! I'm back!!
Thanks Grady and ecman. I read your posts within a couple days of you posting. I've been observing the nature of the beast, but I'll get back to that later.
In response to prorege, the diagnostic code is located on the inside cover of the lower [blower] compartment. Just in case yours is missing here are the codes. Maybe somebody else may need them as well.
# blinks-------probable cause---------------check
1 blink------equipment problem-----gas flow; gas pressure,
-------------ignition failure--------gas valve, flame sensor

2 blinks------closed pressure-----------pressure switch
----------------switch------------------stuck closed

3 blinks------pressure switch-------------ventor [DIM]
--------------failure to close-----------pressure switch
----------------------------------------vent blockage

4 blinks------open limit switch----------main limit open
---------------------------------------aux. limit open

5 blinks-----false flame sensed---------sticking gas valve

rapid-------incorrect twinig----------reverse transformer
continuous------------------------------secondary leads
---------incorrect primary polarity---reverse primary wires

Well I hope this will help. Post back and let us know.
Grady I checked the voltage as you suggested and it was absent at the motor. So I think the logic board is the culprit, but then a few days later the DIM made that sound as if it were sticking and I managed to spin the blades and it started up. Perhaps it has a bad spot in the windings or something. It doesn't stick that way very often. I did check the voltage at the DIM terminal on the board and didn't get a reading until I pressed on/moved the suspect relay. I pulled the board out to look for obvious breaks in the circuitry but have not come to anything in the way of conclusive.
I'm sure that in the end I'll have to divorce both the board and the motor but until then I'm still in court searching for the truth (smile). I would have used a smiley face if I knew how.

To be continued!!
 
  #37  
Old 02-09-08, 02:19 PM
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Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 13,928
Board/Motor

I'm pretty sure that motor is of the split phase type (no capacitor). If it is, it has a start switch internally. Start switches are a common problem & the reason many manufacturers are going to split capacitor motors.

To insert a smiley just move the mouse pointer to the smiley you want to use & click on it. The smiley will be inserted where the cursor is on your screen.
 
  #38  
Old 02-09-08, 11:26 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2
[QUOTE=ratterJ1;1311266]Well I hope this will help. Post back and let us know.

Thanks for this help!
My diagnostic codes sheet must have been lost. A pressure switch stuck open would explain why I smelled gas the first time I checked it. I cycled power to the board (after letting it sit for a couple days) and it has been running fine for about 3 or 4 days. ....however I have a pressure switch on order and will replace it as soon as it come.
 
  #39  
Old 10-20-09, 01:53 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ohio
Posts: 15
Post

Grady, ecman51, SeattlePioneer,
I feel like such a complete and total idiot. I thought I had replied to your comments way back when. I would like to offer my deepest apologies for this oversight on my part.

I ended up up having to run out on a Saturday afternoon to the supply house about twenty minutes before closing to purchase a control board (same number you specified Grady).
While attempting to repair the old board I Neglected to disconnect the power on one occasion and OOOPS!!! that was that. I haven't encountered any problems since then with the unit. Thanks again for all your help. You guys are fantastic.
I hope you get to see this soon as I still don't know quite how to maneuver through the site yet.

ratterJ1 happy again
 
  #40  
Old 10-20-09, 04:44 PM
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RatterJ1

Thanks for the update. Appology accepted. So often a thread gets to a point then the original poster just seems to disappear & we don't know if he got it fixed, threw in the towel, or just what happened. Thanks again for the update & glad all is well with the furnace. Should you encounter any other problems with the furnace or nearly anything else around the house, there are dozens (hundreds?) of us here on DoItYourself.com ready & willing to help where we can.
 
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