Heat Will Not Engage

Columbia, South Carolina, Average Winter high 56, Average Winter low 37. Right now it's a comfortable 64 going up to 70.

Ranch home on slab, HVAC in attic. Natural gas supplied A/C and furnace in the same unit (gaspack?) by Inter City products Corp Model DGHH075A012IN, at least 12 years old. Honeywell CT3400A electronic programmable
thermostat, same age.

Heat will not engage. A/C works fine. Thermostat reacts when adjusted to a higher temperature and set to "heat," but furnace does not engage.

Upon physical inspection, what appears to be an exhaust blower motor (Swirlwind brand-cannot locate model number) is buzzing and is very hot to the touch. Perhaps it has spun a bearing. The rest of the furnace is not operating at all.

Questions:

Is the Swirlwind an exhaust fan/blower? It is connected to 2" PVC pipe that exits through the roof.

Would there be a relay that would not permit the furnace to activate if the exhaust blower is inoperative? (It would make sense since CO in the home is a bad thing).

Does it make sense that the exhaust blower motor is the cause of the problem?

Is there a way to fix the blower motor other than replacing it?

Where would I get an exhasust blower motor? Is it a standard part or is there a different one for every furnace?

It seems pretty simple to swap: nuts, wiring, condensate tubes, exhaust pipe...what are the mistakes I'm about to make if I endeavor to replace the exhaust blower motor?

There is some kind of sealant at the connection between the exhaust pipe and the outlet of the blower...is it specialized? Will caulk work?

Being that this is a natural gas appliance, should I just leave the repair to a pro?

Thanks in advance for your help. You folks always come through in a big way. I'd like to get this worked out during this warm stretch we are having.

allenzachary

 

The inducer fan (Exhaust) has to be running before anything will happen. I don't know ICP well enough to know if the exhaust is clamped on or glued/culked.

Do you see a shaft that you maybe able to spin to see if it's free or not?

if can't spin, then may have to remove the unit and see if something in the squaral cage or the bearing on the motor itself.

Are you able to get a new one?

 

There is no spindle accessible from outside of the cabinet. I ddin't want to remove anything without learning about the mistakes I could make if I made a wrong move. Thus, I did not remove it yet. Is there anything I need to know before attempting to remove the motor?

I live in the Capital city (such as it is) of South Carolina. There are a bunch of plumbing/electrical wholesalers and distributors here. I imagine there are also HVAC distributors. Who would I see to get an inducer fan motor? Would it help to bring the old one or are they all standard?

As far as the exhaust pipe connecting to the inducer fan motor, you are saying tha any way to attach it (PVC glue, caulk, industrial adhesive etc), will work. This all looks relatively simple, I just want to avoid the "You did what?!?!" goofs.

For example, I used to work in a stereo shop. I had a customer who cleaned the heads of his cassette deck with soap and water. While it seemed like a good idea, (soap and water is good for cleaning, right?) it was the worst thing they could do. (Use denatured alcohol and a rubber conditioner, by the way).

I want to get this right. I mistake could be costly and dangerous to my family.

Thanks.

allenzachary

 

There are many ways of how the PVC is attached, like I said, I don't know how ICP does it.. Are you able to take a pix and link us to a photo host site since we can't post pix on here?

 

Visit here.

I can provide more if you need.

I've don some research..the unit on the furnace is a Faco 7062-3136. According to Fasco's website, that model has been replaced by the A142. My furnace is made by ICP, but the A142 is made for Rheem and Vulcan products. Confusing.

Another issue is the note on the A142 at Fasco's site:A142 ONLY HAS ONE (1) DRAIN HOLE ON TOP - ORIGINAL BLOWER HAD THREE (3). IF BLOWER CAN BE HORIZONTALLY MOUNTED WITH DRAIN HOLE DOWN, IT CAN BE USED. IF NOT, GO BACK TO OEM. ORIGINAL HAS 3 HOLES AND CAN BE MOUNTED IN 3 DIFFERENT POSITIONS.

My furnace as you can see in the picture is horizontally mounted. Must I get an original inducer from ICP? It doesn't seem to make sense.

Another issue is that the A142 looks different than the one on my furnace. My unit has a 2"x2" box attached above the motor's coil assembly. Fasco's A147 looks more like it.

I dunno. I may have to wait til tomorrow to talk with Fasco about it.

Thanks for your help.

 

sorry. visit here: http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h136/boigeek/IMG_1443.jpg

 

manufacturers change the physical design of their inducer assemblies often, however they usually keep the same mounting holes , as long as the inducer your purchasing has a drain hole thats going to be on the bottom when installed (most ive seen have more than one for different mounting applications, just plug the ones you dont use with silicone) you should cut the pvc between the elbow and the housing and remove the assembly off the furnace to be sure nothing has gotten stuck in the wheel. also after replacing the inducer clear out all your drains, traps, and condensate pump if you have one so you dont damage the new motor