furnace control board died

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  #1  
Old 03-31-07, 11:27 AM
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furnace control board died

I have a Trane TDE060A936K1 which was installed in my house in 1997/1998. I woke up at 9am to a house at 68F. The furnace was set to kick on at 6am and bring the house up to 72F. It had been running the fan for 3 hours with only cool air being pushed... no warm air.

I turned the heat off at the thermostat, but the fan did not stop. I waited for 5 minutes. This is not the normal behavior.

I opened the service panel and found the control unit's indicator light was solid red. According to the label, this indicates an "internal control failure (replace)". As far as I can tell, the White Rodgers 50A50-571 control unit is discontinued. All information suggested it should be replaced with the 50A55-843.

I purchased the 50A55-843 and hooked up all the wires in the same fashion. When I start up the furnace now, the new control board's red LED blinks 5 times, which indicates an open rollout switch.

I understand (on a basic level) what a rollout switch is for. I wanted to try once to click it back into place and run the furnace. If it were to pop again, I would call a pro.

The problem is that I can't find the rollout switch. Or, if I have found it, mine don't have buttons to push back in. I need some help with this part... or with the overall issue if you think I have gone astray.

Old control board:
http://www.djbreslin.com/nonSiteRelated/oldControlBoard.jpg

New control board:
http://www.djbreslin.com/nonSiteRelated/newControlBoard.jpg

This is where I *think* I see the rollout switches (with one removed):
http://www.djbreslin.com/nonSiteRelated/rolloutSwitch.jpg

Here are two up close shots of what I removed. Rollout or not?
http://www.djbreslin.com/nonSiteRelated/rolloutSwitch1.jpg
http://www.djbreslin.com/nonSiteRelated/rolloutSwitch2.jpg

Thank you very much...
-DJ
 
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Old 03-31-07, 04:33 PM
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Roll out switch is out in front of the burners. You could jumper the 2 wires together to bypass it TEMPORARILY FOR TESTING ONLY. Or, if you simply had a voltmeter you would disconnect at least one wire and check the two terminal for continuity.

As far as hooking up the wires to your new (possibly redesigned/improved? control board...were you careful to make sure you hooked up the wires to the correct labels? I had to install a redesigned control board a couple years ago and they switched some locations on the new board. If I had simply transfered wires, without looking what the connector locations said, I would have been you know whated.
 
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Old 03-31-07, 06:55 PM
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I did jumper the rollout switch wires for a quick test and the board still said they were open.

Another person gave me some advice that turned out to be the trick! There was a small blurb in the instructions that said I had to jumper the R01 and R02 wires in the 12 pin connector for TRANE applications. The jumper cable was even provided by White Rodgers. It worked perfectly!
 
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Old 07-04-07, 05:29 PM
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I'm resurecting this thread because I've just found out my A/C doesn't work. As you can see from the rest of the thread, I replaced my control board and with help from the community, got the wiring correct so that the furnace would provide heat.

Unfortunately, when I set the thermostat to "cool," the furnace fan spins up, but the A/C unit outside the house doesn't turn on at all.

There are no blinking lights on the control board to indicate an issue. The only wires that didn't have clear labeling were two both marked "PARK." I swapped them with no effect. I don't know what else is different (other than the control board model).

Any ideas? Any tests I can do?

Thanks!
 
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Old 07-05-07, 04:00 PM
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Voltmeter?

If you have & know how to use a voltmeter, there is some basic troubleshooting you can do. Without one, about all you can do is look at the contactor on the outdoor unit, during a call for cooling, & see if it is pulled in. You can also check circuit breakers & check the disconnect box outdoors for fuses.
 
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Old 07-07-07, 12:39 PM
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Sometimes all that is needed is a kick in the head, and you provided that Grady. I opened up the furnace, checked the control board, and checked the outside A/C unit's wiring and fusebox. But I didn't think to check the circuit breakers in the garage. How foolish.

When I did the original furnace work back in March, I flipped the breakers of everything involving the heating and cooling of the house. I simply forgot to switch the A/C circuit back on when I was done.

Thanks again Grady...
 
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Old 07-07-07, 06:15 PM
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Breakers

Glad to have been able to help. I've pulled such stunts myself then upon discovering my mistake called myself all kinds of unkind names.
 
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Old 04-06-09, 03:34 PM
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Help!

We had the same problem with our control board. Now that my did this ....to jumper the R01 and R02 wires in the 12 pin connector for TRANE applications.
Before he did this jumper thing, the fuse was fine, now the fuse keeps blowing, any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
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Old 04-06-09, 03:42 PM
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What problem with your control board were you having, and who did the jumpering, and why were those numbered terminals selected to be jumpered?
 
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Old 04-06-09, 04:23 PM
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My husband purchased the 50A55-843 and hooked up all the wires in the same fashion. When he starts up the furnace now, the new control board's red LED blinks 5 times, which indicates an open rollout switch. (the blower motor turns on and stays on, the motor that vents the gas would start then turn off)
The instructions said he had to jumper the R01 and R02 wires in the 12 pin connector for TRANE applications. The jumper cable was even provided by White Rodgers. Now the fuse keeps blowing.

Thanks!
 
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Old 04-06-09, 05:20 PM
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Ask your husband if he'd mind if he let YOU read the instruction booklet.

Maybe you will spot something said, or illustrated, where you can ask him if he did such and such.

And is he sure that the instructions are uniformly applied to all Tranes? Or, do they stipulate just certain models?

Also, do the instructions give any variables for if your system has air conditioning or not?

I can't really help, any more than what I am saying here, as it does obviously sound like something went awry from wiring in the new board.

And did he simply swap old wire location to new identical looking wire location? Or did he read what each terminal connection abbreviation says - as sometimes they completely switch around locations of terminals.
 
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Old 04-24-09, 03:15 PM
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yes i had the same problem with my trane heater,couldnt fiuger out why roll out switch (flame)was stuck open and had 5 red flashes on blinking light then i found this web site thank you 4 sloving my headache..i also put a jumper wire( or plug)from ro1 to ro2 on 12 pin plug...it work..thanks again....Beer 4U2
 
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Old 04-24-09, 04:15 PM
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I hope it keeps working - because frankly I cannot see how any jumpering of wires on a control board can correct an "open" roll out switch.

Maybe you are using the wrong terminology, or do not realize the important difference between - if no power even is getting to the roll out switch, or, if current is getting there, but can't go through it(or them), because it(they) is(are) closed.

If your actions really fixed things, then I'd have to say that before you fixed it by jumpering, that power was not flowing though the 24 volt safety switches wires, and in essence that whole circuit was open. And that is why it is important to actually test the switch(es) before say running out and buying a new one(s) based on what the flash code says.
 
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