Replacing oil line for new oil tank

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Old 05-08-07, 08:37 PM
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Replacing oil line for new oil tank

Hey folks:

Sometime in the next week or 2, I will be installing a new 275 oil tank in my basement. I will be replacing the old 1 1/4" vent pipe with 2" Black pipe, (and a new vent alarm) which is no problem, my questions are about the oil supply line to the furnace.
- What kind of fitting should I use for the bottom of the tank? I was planning on using a brass "ELL" fitting attached to a 6 inch nipple extending out from under the tank, to a shut off valve connected to a 3/8" or 1/2" flare fitting to connect the supply line to. Would this be proper? After I've installed the tank, I plan to have the Oil company pressure test the system before filling it, and I am not going to transfer any fuel from the old tank. I'm running it dry. Also, do they sell short runs of sheathed copper tubing (10ft or so), or do I have to buy a large roll?

OR, would there be any problem using the existing line that is buried under concrete or do I have to replace the line?

- Does it matter if I use a ball or a gate valve for the shut off?

- I've heard about something called an "anti-siphon valve" should I install one of these, and if so, where in the set up should it go?
- Any other tips on this is greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your assistance. Vince.
 
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Old 05-09-07, 06:30 PM
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New Oil Tank

Congratulations. It sounds like you want to do things right. Presuming you are using a single wall tank, they make a plastic tank tray which is put in place & the tank sits in it. They are only about 3" deep which means the tray would hold the entire contents of the tank but it certainly is far better than nothing. The tray can also be equipped with an alarm if you so desire. More information here: http://php3.eesc.com/htdocs_generalfilters/cimages/GF_OilYeller_06.pdf

They make a tank valve which is molded at 90 such as those pictured here:
http://www.matco-norca.com/oil_tank_valves.htm

Your oil dealer may be able to supply you with the tubing. I do not suggest using the existing line.

Since you are going to supply the burner off the bottom of the tank, I suggest a filter/oil saftey valve combination such as this: http://www.suntecpumps.fr/Suntecus/prv38/uni-saf.htm

There should also be a fuseable valve at the burner. NOTE: Local codes may require one at the tank as well. http://www.ontor.com/index_HVAC_Manufacturer_groups_Oil+Heating+Products_company_Firomatic_Firomatic.html

Hope this answers your questions but be advised, local codes may require something different or additional. It is always a good idea to check with the local agency or agentcies having jurisdiction over such things.
 
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Old 05-09-07, 09:11 PM
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New Oil Tank line

I appreciate the input. I plan to follow your advice. Better to do a little "overkill" now while the whole thing's apart, than try and fix something later. I've been to Home Depot and the place is a dead end for the specialty items. I'll have to try a local plumbing supply house. If I can't find the oil tank valve locally, can I do with a brass Ell, a nipple and a valve?
I'm annoyed with my oil company at the moment. They wanted $1600 to install a new tank, and that didn't include the removal of the old tank. I agree that everyone deserves to make a profit in life, but that's just ridiculous. Thanks again-- Vince.
 
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Old 05-10-07, 10:38 AM
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Is your old tank underground?

Hi Vince-

I was just curious about your old tank and where it is located. I was also wondering how you were going to run the fuel lines the same way as the old lines? My old lines were concreted into the basement floor so the PO did re-run it under the concrete. They opted to run it up and over and down which is not supposed to be spec but it works. I only have a single line and will probably at a Tiger-Loop in the future.
 
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Old 05-10-07, 12:44 PM
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Strange, Home Depot had everything I needed to install my new 330 gallon tank.
 
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Old 05-10-07, 02:40 PM
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Not at all strange. Big box stores in different parts of the country stock different things. In my area any hydronic heating parts are non-existant but they have an extensive line of ducting.
 
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Old 05-10-07, 06:36 PM
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Parts

Check the local plumbing supply houses for the valve. If you have no luck, yes, the nipple, elbow, nipple, valve assembly will work just fine. I suggest a ball valve & be sure to use a good pipe dope listed for use with fuel oil. You can also use #2 Permatex which is one of the best thread sealants for oil you can get & is available at any auto parts store. DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE ANYWHERE ON THE FUEL SYSTEM.
 
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Old 05-10-07, 11:23 PM
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running the oil line

[QUOTE=hexonx;
I was just curious about your old tank and where it is located. I was also wondering how you were going to run the fuel lines the same way as the old lines? My old lines were concreted into the basement floor so the PO did re-run it under the concrete. [/QUOTE]

The tank is in my basement, and I had the new one delivered yesterday.
I'm running the old one dry before I change it out., My oil lines are a mess. I have 3 lines coming from the tank all buried under concrete. 2 are dead lines and 1 is active. My theory instead of burying the new line, is to run it 3 feet along the wall, then make a left for 2 ft and run it over the concrete to the burner. I was going to thread the copper tubing through a 2ft piece of either galvanized pipe or more flexible plastic pipe and attach that pipe to the floor with brackets & masonary screws. The basement is totally unfinished and could never be finished. It is a very low traffic area.
I already have a return line (steam system) running across the floor at this spot, so it's not an additional trip hazzard. Vince.
 
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Old 05-11-07, 12:10 AM
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I just want to second what Grady wrote about not using teflon tape. Clean all the threaded ends with a quick evaporating solvent, using an old toothbrush and clean rags. If any of the steel piping has any rust use a wire brush first to remove the rust.

After cleaning use the #2 Permatex on the male threads only, trying to not get any on the first thread or two. After tightening the fittings wipe off any excess Permatex that is left on the fittings.

You may want to wear gloves when working with the Permatex as it seems to get all over everything and it is heck to get it off your hands.
 
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Old 05-11-07, 12:51 AM
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Thumbs up Oil line

"I just want to second what Grady wrote about not using teflon tape....."


I agree. I only use tape on water. I've picked up a can of some stuff that's for oil. I can't remember the name, but it's green.
Vince.
 
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Old 05-11-07, 06:01 PM
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Permatex Tip

Rubbing alcohol will clean up Permatex pronto. Some of the moist hand cleaner towels such as "Scrubs" do a good job as well but alcohol is champ.
 
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