York Diamond 80 Won't Stay running

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Old 11-04-07, 03:34 PM
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York Diamond 80 Won't Stay running

5yr old York Diamond 80 that seems to fire up just fine, run for a couple of minutes, then the burners go out and just the smaller fan above the burners runs. Not sure if the lower blower even starts (does not appear to push any air even when the burners are going and when fan is turned to on).
Can the blower motor not working trigger the rest of the system to shut down except for the top fan assy?

Thanks, Bob
 
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Old 11-04-07, 04:02 PM
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Gas system on the York Diamond 80; RiteTemp digital thermostat. Reset the thermostat, pulled & cleaned contact pins and reinstalled. Set the temp up so the heat would click on and it did. Turned the fan switch to ON and even though I can hear something going on in the attic, nothing is blowing out the vents. Believe what I'm hearing is that top fan assy based on previous visits to the attic. This unit is responsible for the upstairs zone of a 2 story single family home, the bottom unit in the basement is operating just fine. Just also changed all the filters which were somewhat dirty, but not caked. I've got my fingers crossed that this is something simple, any advice greatly appreciated!

Bob
 
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Old 11-04-07, 05:01 PM
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Hi shelby:

Yes, if the blower is not coming on, the high temperature limit switch will shut off the burners. Best thing to do is go up there, take the cover off the blower section and inspect the blower fan assembly. There should be a switch that is activated by the cover; push that in and have someone turn on the heat and see what happens. Let us know what you find. Thanks.
 
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Old 11-04-07, 05:09 PM
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Switch

DaddyJohn, Thanks for your response... I had that cover off earlier just to look around inside. Didn't see anything out of place, so I replaced it and left the upper panel off so I could see how it was functioning. Since my access to the attic is in the kids room and they are in bed already, I'll have to jump up there again tomorrow when I get home from work. I'll let you know the results, thanks again for the help!

Bob
 
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Old 11-05-07, 05:25 PM
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DaddyJohn,

Ok, made it back up into the attic, pulled the panels and held the switch in while the heat was turned on. The burners fired up and the upper fan unit (Small) came on as well. Burners burned for exactly 2 minutes without the big fan assy (Blower) ever turning on, then the burners extinguished. What I did notice at that point was a red LED on the circuit board that is mounted to the fan assy that would flash 4 times over and over as long as I held that switch in. Also noticed a fuse on the board, but just by visual inspection, it appeared to be fine. Does 4 flashes by that LED signify anything? Anything else I can check?
Thanks again for your assistance on troubleshooting this unit.. Regards, Bob
 
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Old 11-08-07, 01:45 PM
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If you turn the thermostat fan switch to on, does the blower run at all? If it does, try the heat gain and see what happens. If it won't run, you'll need a voltmeter to see if you're getting power to the motor. You might also want to take a look at the back of the board, there was anoht er poster with a furnace like yours who said the back of the board was burnt. There should be label somewhere on the furnace or inside the covers to tell you what 4 blinks is. My guess is it's high limit. Let us know what you find. Thanks.
 
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Old 11-09-07, 07:13 AM
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Daddy John is correct. I had what sounds like an identical problem. They guided me though all of the checks and everything checked out fine, but the 4 blinks returned every time I reset the power. After replacing the high limit switch, I finally called a reputable service tech. He came out, checked everything just like I had done and every thing checked out fine. Since he had seen this a couple of times, he made a guess that the board was bad. He removed it and could see a section that was damaged. He replaced the board -$154 (93.00 at arnords)- and everything is as smooth as ice now. After watching him install the board, I would suggest having a pro do it. The new ones are not exactly the same and require some retro work and one small mistake could send your board back to the junk pile. I didn't get the bill yet, but think it will b $84 for the call and parts. Worth every penny now that it is in the 30's here. Good luck.
 
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Old 11-18-07, 09:20 AM
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Electircal Checks

Thanks guys for your assistance on this... I'm headed back up in the attic today with my multimeter to do some checks, but have a couple of questions first.

1. Will I be measuring AC or DC at the terminals on the board inside the lower opening?
2. What terminals should I be checking with just the fan turned on (but currently does not do anything)
3. Anything specific I should be looking for on the board other than heat damage?
4. Noted that another poster had mentioned about a capacitor under the motor? Any more definitive location and what I should be looking for with this cap?

Basically, it appears that everything works just fine on this system with the exception of the blower motor...

Thanks again, Bob
 
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Old 11-18-07, 09:53 AM
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Ah Ha!

Gents, Ok, made another trip up into the attic. This time I took my vacuum cleaner to clean out all the crap inside the unit, top and bottom. When I did this, I also looked for and found what appears to be a large capacitor mounted just under the control board. This capacitor (assumed) seems to have been leaking oil (or some other substance) as there is a drip still on it. Nothing major as far as quantity, but enough to cause a "run" of about 1 foot on the bottom of the unit. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that this is my problem, but am hoping some of the knowledgeable folks here will confirm that a loss of this "oil" could cause the cap not to function correctly and therefore cause the blower motor not to turn... I assume that I could source this cap at about any local Heating/AC store, possibly even a Home Depot?

Thanks, Bob
 
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Old 11-18-07, 09:59 AM
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Capacitor Value/Part Number

Gents, Sorry for the multiple posts here... Forgot to ask if anyone knows the correct part number or value of this large capacitor for the York Diamond 80 Blower Motor...

Thanks, Bob
 
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Old 11-18-07, 11:49 AM
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Hi Bob:

The values are written on the side of the capacitor. You may have to remove the cap coz it might be on the back side. You're looking for 2 ratings. The first is mfd which could also be written as uf. The second is vac which is the voltage. I don't know if HD has them but a local appliance parts store might or try an internet vendor.
 
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Old 11-18-07, 11:55 AM
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Finally?

Daddy J,

I went back up and just pulled the unit down. You are correct, there is a label on it and I was able to find a cross to it on the Arnold website for $8.00... Based on your experience, does this capacitor seem likely to be my issue? I'm now wondering if the cap did go bad, but possibly the blower may be bad as well? Could one cause the other to go bad?

Thanks, Bob
 
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Old 11-18-07, 12:19 PM
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If you do not hear a motor hum and the blower squirrel cage easily spins, then you can move on to test the motor.

You can reasonably test the blower. You can undo the wires to it and ohms test a colored run wire and the white wire. If you have 2 brown ones, these would be the ones to the capacitor, adn do not test hese as one of the colored wires. Test between two other colored wires for ohms resistance. A black to white, or red to white or maybe yellow? to white. White would be the neutral wire and one of the other wires would be your run wire. (The colors are coded for speed of blower.) You will find a little resistance, but only a little. But if there is absolutely 100% continuity, this could signify a dead short. Then test resistance between first the run wire and the casing of the motor and then the neutral wire and the casing of the motor. This should give no reading! - as long as none of the motor wires is hooked up to anything else. Your meter should never have either the needle or numbers that are already on it move. If it does, the motor has a dead short.
 
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Old 11-19-07, 03:45 PM
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Problem appears to be solved

Gents,

Picked up a new capacitor today at a Noland for $3.93 and just finished installing it. It appears that my problem is solved (at least for the time being) as the initial test of just turning on the fan worked just fine... then I adjusted the thermostat for heat and it kicked in just as it should. I've got my fingers crossed that the bad cap didn't do anything to the blower motor that might cause it to fail down the road. Ahh... warmth is such a good thing, and probably saving about $250 for a service call helps as well. Thanks DaddyJohn, ecman and Jeeper for all your insight!

Bob
 
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