have to keep bleeding line!

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Old 11-17-07, 06:36 AM
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have to keep bleeding line!

I have an oil heater, bled the line to get it started. It was fine for about a week, then stopped kicking in. Bled the line again, pushed reset button, fires right up. The second time it lasted about 4 days before it conked out. Now it is to the point I have to bleed the line and push reset every day. Anyone have any ideas? I appreciate any advice you can give me.
 
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Old 11-17-07, 06:05 PM
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is there actually air in the line when you bleed it?
 
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Old 11-18-07, 08:58 AM
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No, that's the thing, there is no air in the line, the oil comes out smoothly. This time it has lasted 2 days so far, but it has lasted a week, so I am not too optimistic. I just don't know what is causing it to stop working every time, when every single time I bleed it and press reset, it fires right up. Could something be going in it that would cause it to do this? I just don't want to be stuck on the coldest night of winter, and have this bleeding method not work for me.
 
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Old 11-18-07, 11:40 AM
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At least in your post, you never said you ONLY tried to first press the reset button without also bleeding. If you did, and to all posters, one should always say EVERYTHING you have tried. Thanks.
 
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Old 11-20-07, 07:41 AM
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I'm having the same problem

I see no one has posted anything that looks like it will help you solve the problem so I hope I have better luck, and maybe it will help you.
I have a similar problem where I have to bleed the fuel line if the furnace isn't operational for a few hours. Here are MY indications.
*I have a Miller Oil furnace that has a Beckett Burner and Suntec pump.
* After pushing the reset (or holding it for the required 20 sec timeout) I can bleed the line, and there is always SOME air in the line.
* After I see the fuel running clear (with no bubbles or foam) I can close the bleeder and the furnace will light-off normally.
* If the furnace sits in the off mode (not needing heat) for a few hours, air slowly creeps into the line and the whole bleeding procedure needs to be repeated.
* The flared fittings look on both ends, so I don't "think" air is getting in, as there also is no evidence of oil leaking out anywhere along the 30ft of line.
* I've replaced the nozzle, but haven't pulled the pump yet, but that's the next step I think.
* I'm very mechanical, and figure there must be a check valve inside the pump to prevent back-flow and this air leak problem. Does anyone know if it's possible this is the problem, and if this check valve is the likely culprit?
* The tank and furnace are 4 years old, and the tank DID run dry last spring so it's possible that some crud was stirred up when it was filled. So I'm thinking that maybe the check valve just simply has some crud in it and a good cleaning and compressed air treatment will solve it WITHOUT replacing the whole pump.
* Sorry this is so wordy, but I am trying to avoid a blast of messages asking me what I have done to troubleshooy.
Any useful advice that would help me do this DIY repair would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
 
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Old 11-20-07, 04:07 PM
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sounds as if the oil is gravity feeding back to the tank is it a 2 or 1 line system.
 
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Old 12-12-07, 05:56 AM
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does it have a filter in line ?
last filter change of strainer change.
 
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Old 12-12-07, 06:28 PM
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Bassman

Is the furnace fed from the top or bottom of the tank & is the oil level in the tank above or below the level of the burner? If it is a two pipe, is the return pipe below the level of the fuel? Sometimes, if the return terminates above the level of the fuel, air will be drawn in & cause your problem.

Here is a link to Suntec's piping instructions:
http://www.suntecpumps.fr/Suntecus/P...tion%20III.pdf
 
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