Firomatic valve?

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Old 12-01-07, 03:27 AM
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Question Firomatic valve?

I have a single line from the oil tank to the firomatic valve to a round circular canister/filter then 15 feet away to my oil fired furnace. I wanted to check/clean the round circular canister/filter but am not sure how to close the firomatic valve? It looks like i should unscrew the round handle which will allow the brass threaded needle part to move into the valve? TO OPEN the valve again i need to screw in the valve to pull out the brass threaded needle? Is that Correct?

It looks very similar to this pic/link
http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to...l-furnaces.htm
 

Last edited by pancake; 12-01-07 at 03:30 AM. Reason: added pic
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Old 12-01-07, 04:15 AM
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Wink

Originally Posted by pancake View Post
I have a single line from the oil tank to the firomatic valve to a round circular canister/filter then 15 feet away to my oil fired furnace. I wanted to check/clean the round circular canister/filter but am not sure how to close the firomatic valve? It looks like i should unscrew the round handle which will allow the brass threaded needle part to move into the valve? TO OPEN the valve again i need to screw in the valve to pull out the brass threaded needle? Is that Correct?

It looks very similar to this pic/link
http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to...l-furnaces.htm
A firematic valve works with a spring-loaded plunger. It seats and shuts off oil flow should there be a fire in the boiler room area because the round handle with the little holes in it is made of a special alloy that melts at a very low temperature, melting the handle off the plunger shaft, and therefore freeing the plunger to seat (with the assistance of the spring) and shutting off oil flow to the burner. To manually shut off oil flow it turns the same way a conventional valve turns, clockwise to close off flow, counter-clockwise to open flow. The threaded end of the shaft will protrude above the handle when open, and be flush with the handle when closed. When closed you should be able to 'pull' the handle outward and 'feel' the spring pressure. If the plunger does not work, or 'sticks open', then replace the valve. Be careful not to overtighten this handle because it is made of a soft low-melting point material and the threads can very easily strip in the handle. Good luck! Charlie
 
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Old 12-03-07, 08:23 PM
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You know, I don't understand why 'self help' websites use oil burner pictures from like the 1950's. It has to be confusing for some people to look at. Wish they'd put a little more effort into it. Oh well.

Boilersrus is right though. Be sure to put your hand on opposite side of the filter(farthest from tank) and hold it tight while you are tightening or loosening the filter so it doesn't snap off the tank. That can cause a very big mess. Good luck!
 
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Old 12-08-07, 03:32 PM
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Changing/removing oil tank filter

Thanks all i that was what i was lookin for. I was able to close the firomatic vlave but now i can't seem to remove the filter/Canister. The canister has a bolt on top and i believe a nut on the bottom. I unscrewed the top bolt and was able to remove it but the canister would not unscrew. Do i need to unscrew that bottom nut as well to lower the filter and canister?
 

Last edited by pancake; 12-08-07 at 03:54 PM. Reason: Removing filter question?
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