stressed Honeywell smart valve stress

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Old 12-18-07, 02:31 PM
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Question stressed Honeywell smart valve stress

Hello -
My gas furnace is working intermittently - a technician diagnosed it as a problem with the smart valve - turns out that a plastic electrical tie that had been used to secure the wires coming from the igniter had been pulling on them and stressing the connection. Push on the plastic tab connection in just the right way, and everything works. He removed the tie, and recommended the whole smart valve be replaced to the tune of over $500. Looking at it, it seems as though only the plastic thingy should need to be replaced, but then again it's tough to tell if the connection problem is the male/outer or the female/inner part, or both. I have a band-aid approach with pushing on the plastic tab until it re-connects. Just today, though, the connection is getting more finicky, so it's time to take care of this.

It's an older furnace (not sure how old...), I bought this house just last July, and the home warranty folks say this issue isn't covered because it's not 'normal wear and tear'.

I found a source online that will sell the Honeywell Q3400A1024 (just the igniter) for about a tenth of the cost, but replacing the whole gas valve is something I'd have some trepidation about doing myself (technician quote: 'you could die' but he also said I couldn't buy the parts myself...).

When the gas goes out, the blower still blows, but there is no gas odor. How risky is my current 'band-aid'?

Should I try replacing the igniter myself? Or would this be throwing money/time away?

If I buy the gas valve myself, does the "Honeywell Smart Valve Gas Valve System Control Model #SV9501 M2528" replace the SV9500 2682?

What do you think of the non-technical aspect of this? Is the charge within the range of normal? Can a 'normal person' who can follow instructions replace these things? (although i'm not claiming to be normal!)

Thanks in advance for the advice!
 
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Old 12-18-07, 03:29 PM
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Those smartvalves did have an internal connection problem. The whole valve needs to be replaced. I'm surprised the warranty co turned it down. I would call back. Normal wear and tear is a strange comment. Its BROKEN, fix it. That's what you paid the premium for. As far as cost I wouldn't want to comment on that, it will vary regionally. I don't think this is a DIY type job unless you know how to set the pressure and have a manometer to do so.
Was the tech from the warranty co? If yes, I don't think he has any business doing "bandaid" fixes.
Best of luck
 
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Old 12-18-07, 03:50 PM
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In all of life there are 'calculated risks'. You have to be the judge on the risk you want to take.

Working on gas line related may not be allowed for example, by your insurance carrier of your house, if you ever questioned them on that one. Now if you were to go ahead and do it anyway, to save a hundred bucks or whatever, you do so with the knowledge inside that you are so certain you know what you are doing that a pro would not be any better at it. Because you have to be certain in your head that no gas line-fitting failure would result because of your lack of knowlege.

But that is only 1/2 the equation. The other half is that even though you might know perfectly well how to do it, that in the event of a line-fitting-gas valve failure, that were to result in some unwanton catastrophe, it be your neck and liability, and not that of the licensed and insured pro.

So, it is the calculated risk thing. You have to decide.

There have been posters that argue with such talk saying that this is a do-it-yourself forum. True. But when it comes to gas, the risk and liability factors increase.
 
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Old 12-18-07, 04:48 PM
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If I buy the gas valve myself, does the "Honeywell Smart Valve Gas Valve System Control Model #SV9501 M2528" replace the SV9500 2682? Yes.

You can check it out here:

http://arnoldservice.com/gas_valves.htm
 
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Old 12-18-07, 05:30 PM
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thanks - and a few comments

Thanks -- I guess I didn't realize that replacing that 'box' would require gas line fittings - I was picturing unscrewing a few screws, pulling out the old and attaching the new, and I thought that the valve was a controller that was external to the line as opposed to being the actual Valve - (does a "duh!" belong in here? um, please don't answer that...) but no, I wouldn't attempt anything that involves making connections to gas lines...

To the tech's credit, he did recommend that I replace the whole thing and not continue to push on the little plastic thingy for very long. (it's been about a week and a half). I tend to be very skeptical, though, of technicians, mechanics, etc. who I don't know -- and are recommending that I spend a chunk of money on something I don't understand -- so I appreciate this forum as a great way to do my homework on this!
 
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Old 12-18-07, 05:54 PM
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You mean as in pulling out the plastic part of the smart valve and leaving the basic metal gas valve there? If so, I think you have to buy the whole smart valve, unfortunately, even though it seems like you can unscrew parts from it.

I fairly recently went through this ordeal with the smart valve on a powervent gas water heater and I TOO only figured I needed the jack portion or no more than the module part of the valve. But found out you can only buy the thing as the entire smart valve.
 
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Old 12-20-07, 08:23 AM
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Closure! (well, almost)

Thanks for your input!

I called the home warranty folks back and had a nice long talk with a supe - long story short they will cover it. Phew!

 
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Old 12-20-07, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ikndoot View Post
Thanks for your input!

I called the home warranty folks back and had a nice long talk with a supe - long story short they will cover it. Phew!

Wow, you are lucky! Every people that I seen posted on the board with the home warranty, the cheap out! They just want to make money for themself!

You must of talked to the right person.

Once you get it fixed, drop the plan with them.. the are worthless most of the time.
 
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