Oil heater, No heat, Have some questions

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Old 01-04-08, 11:19 PM
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Oil heater, No heat, Have some questions

First things first - Rheem downdraft furnace, ~ 5 yrs old, Beckett model AFG burner, fuel tank lower than burner with supply and return lines.

and I need to add that I may have run out of fuel. yea, I know.... at least I'm willing to admit it. I'm not sure if I have a problem or the fuel level is lower than I thought.

Here is what I'm seeing - thermostat clicks on, I hear a relay click in the heater, later the fan comes on and stays on until I hit the switch or drop the temp on the thermostat.

What I don't see / hear is anything from the burner.

Am I correct in believing that I should hear the motor / pump on the burner come on in an attempt to pump fuel to the nozzle? Or is there an override that kicks in once I run out of fuel that prevents the motor from activating?

I'll hold my questions about priming the pump, etc. for later.

Any and all thoughts and comments are welcome.

Thanks!
 
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Old 01-05-08, 06:29 AM
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You seem very knowledgeable, so it's probably an exercise in futility asking you this, but heck, I'll ask anyway: Is the primary control in the lock-out mode? [the red push buttom popped out and red LED ON?]

Also, newer primary controls, such as Honeywell's R7184 allow you only a "limited" number of recycle trials before they lock-out for good and you have to follow a reset procedure.
So...if you have a primary such as this and is in the lock-out mode, you may push that red button all you want and the burner won't do a thing for you until the primary is reset.

But the fan [house blower?] should not be kicking-ON until after the plenum is nice & hot...meaning, the burner should have turned ON first.
What's this Rheem Downflow furnace's model number?
 
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Old 01-05-08, 08:01 AM
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Thanks for your quick response!

The Rheem model number is ROPC-084QBEA.

The primary control is a Honeywell R8184. The red button is not popped up and I do not see a LED illuminated (assuming it has one). The button never appeared to be popped up.

I agree with your comment about the fan and wouldn't expect the blower to come on until after the unit is hot. This one appears to be on a timer. Then again, If I knew what I was doing, I'd be warm by now... My knowledge is based on my old Borg Warner I kept going for 30 years. I know enough to be careful, ask questions and try not to do anything stupid.

Thanks!
 
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Old 01-05-08, 09:18 AM
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Check the picture below, is the primary control in your unit
http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/i...ket/R8184G.jpg

Turn the t-stat OFF
go where the unit is
disconnect the thermostat wires on terminals T-T
disconnect the yellow wires on terminals F-F
put a jumper across terminals T-T

If the unit now fires-up the cad-cell was preventing it from doing so. Why? we'll talk if the unit fires.
If it does not fire, let me know if you noticed anything special (humming, spark sound, etc.)

NOTE: Once the burner starts (if it starts), add a jumper to terminals F-F, else the burner will shut itself OFF after 45 seconds.
 
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Old 01-05-08, 09:28 AM
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Blower stays-ON

And regarding the blower...
Do you have one of these on your furnace?
 
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Old 01-05-08, 10:28 AM
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The schematic for your unit indicates that the blower is indeed controlled by a timer, so it will kick ON and stay ON a few seconds after the thermostat has called for heat, regardless of the burner firing status...I don't like this fan-control-logic

There is this small relay, called the IR (Isolation Relay), which has a 24V coil (with 2 blue wires on it, coming from the W and C terminals on the Heat-Cool Relay); and it has also one pair of N.O. contacts (with 2 black wires on it going to the T-T terminals on the primary control).

If the contacts of the IR don't close, the burner won't fire.
And if the coil of the IR is not energized, its contacts won't close.

The IR is not letting your burner start. This could be happening due to:
(1) one of the four wires mentioned above is lose or has gotten disconnected
(2) the coil and/or contacts of the IR is bad [need tips on how to test this?]
 
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Old 01-05-08, 12:20 PM
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Thank you for your replies!

It turned out to be the overtemp switch / sensor in the blower area. It was tripped. Once I found it, I reset the switch and reinstalled the panels. It appears to be running fine now.

Thanks for the info on the R8184. Mine does not have the lockout but the rest is the same.

I did find the IR you mentioned and was able to test it with a meter. I checked for voltages with the unit on and off - AC on the blue wires with the unit on. I'm not sure of the voltage since I had my meter on the 250 V. AC scale. The needle moved and that was good enough for me. To check the relay, I pulled the black wires and put an ohm meter on the contacts. With power applied to the blue wires, there was 0 ohms across the contacts for the black wires.

The next step was locating the overtemp sensor. On the way to it I found the fan timer (model BC-44A8-FA-NLC, http://www.patriot-supply.com/produc...item.cfm/25576)

Re the fan timer - Maybe the timer is more reliable than the temp sensor to control the fan, or cheaper to build...

I tried to convince my wife to cook a turkey to get some heat in the house. She politely declined.

Thanks again for your help!
 
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