Rudd Gas Furnace Problem!
#1
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Rudd Gas Furnace Problem!
Can any one out here help me with this dilema that I'm having? I have a 2004 Rudd Achiever Series "Super Quiet 80" gas furnace and the problem I'm having is after I set the thermostat in heat mode and set it at 90, the inducer fan comes on for about 30 sec., then the electric style electrobe ignitor starts ticking and arcing for 10sec. gas ignites. After ticking of electrobe stops which happens 5 sec. after flame appears, the fire roars for maybe another 5 sec. and then it goes out. In another 10 sec. the electrobes starts ticking again , then the unit ignites again, then it repeats what it did at first. After the flame goes out for the second time, the blower fan starts to run with the inducer fan and it finally shut down after 5 min. Can anyone help me with this problem,Please?????? Oh yeah, I have the control board that has the 3 blinking lights, 2 green, one yellow which is the flame light and which is not coming on at all and this a new board.
#2
Sounds like the flame sensor needs to be cleaned.
Should be a single wire going in on the far left side of the burners, clean it only with a clean scotch brite pad.
Should be a single wire going in on the far left side of the burners, clean it only with a clean scotch brite pad.
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RE:Gas Problem
I attempted to clean it the other day and I even replaced the limit switches just above the flame tubes. Could there be some sort of restriction in vent pipe that might make this happen?
#5
I doubt it...
From the description of the malfunction you indicate, the board is being told that there is no flame present after the gas valve has already opened, so it shuts the system down in a safety lockout move.
The rod may be clean (you indicate having done so), but perhaps its tip is not right in front of the flame (it must be completely engulfed by it), OR, its ceramic shield is cracked and leaking current to ground, OR, its tip touching a metal part (it must be up in the air, touching nothing), OR, you have a lose wire from the flame-rod back to the board, OR, the board's ground has come off or is loose.
When there is an air blockage on the combustion-air side, the pressure switch would not engage and there would be no spark and no ignition of the main burners, all of which you have reported do happen
From the description of the malfunction you indicate, the board is being told that there is no flame present after the gas valve has already opened, so it shuts the system down in a safety lockout move.
The rod may be clean (you indicate having done so), but perhaps its tip is not right in front of the flame (it must be completely engulfed by it), OR, its ceramic shield is cracked and leaking current to ground, OR, its tip touching a metal part (it must be up in the air, touching nothing), OR, you have a lose wire from the flame-rod back to the board, OR, the board's ground has come off or is loose.
When there is an air blockage on the combustion-air side, the pressure switch would not engage and there would be no spark and no ignition of the main burners, all of which you have reported do happen
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flame problem!!
I replaced the flame sensor today and I made sure it was engulfed in the flame and it keeps doing the same thing. I even replaced the harness and thermostat. The thing fires up and right after ignition and the popping sounds stop from the intermediate igniter, it burns for about 5 seconds and then it shuts down, then it repeats the cycle once more. After that though, the blower comes on for about 5 min., then it completely cuts off. As I stated, I've vertically replaced every component except the gas valve, and still it's a no go. I can't imagine what to do next??????
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furnace problems
...just a few thoughts..if you replaced the flame sensor I assume it came with a new wire. I can't remember on that furnace if the flame sensor plugs into the control board or if it plugs into the electronic ignition module. If it's the electronic ignition module that is doing the sensing then it could be faulty.
Only other thing I can think of without being there with a meter in hand would be to remove the rubber tube from the pressure switch and blow in it back towards the induced draft motor housing to see if it is partially restricted, it could possibly be picking up some rust trash and opening the switch, or a glitchy pressure switch. ...but with the consistancy that your describing I would lean towards the sensing circuit for the flame sensor.
M@
Only other thing I can think of without being there with a meter in hand would be to remove the rubber tube from the pressure switch and blow in it back towards the induced draft motor housing to see if it is partially restricted, it could possibly be picking up some rust trash and opening the switch, or a glitchy pressure switch. ...but with the consistancy that your describing I would lean towards the sensing circuit for the flame sensor.
M@
#10
M/n ???
Vince...
Pls post the full M/N of this Rheem, just so I peek at the proper service manual.
It should read like this: R G _ _ .....
The next two letters after the "G" are the most important ones. The remaninder ones are not key, but will give me some additional info as well.
Pls post the full M/N of this Rheem, just so I peek at the proper service manual.
It should read like this: R G _ _ .....
The next two letters after the "G" are the most important ones. The remaninder ones are not key, but will give me some additional info as well.