York Furnace Not Starting

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Old 04-05-08, 04:52 PM
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York Furnace Not Starting

Hi,

I have a York Diamond 80 Furnace that is not starting. The model number is P2MP014N08001C. I live in the Chicago area, and it's starting to warm up. I own a two story three bedroom home with a basement. The furnace is the original, installed when the home was built in 1995. The furnace runs on natural gas, and has a metal chimney running to the roof. I installed a Honeywell programmable thermostat about eight years ago.

One really cold morning, I noticed the furnace was not starting. It was especially cold in the house because I had left the bedroom window open a little for fresh air.

I started troubleshooting the issue, and noticed the red led was blinking three times. The blink code sticker stated that this was due to the pressure switch being stuck in the open position. I tried holding the switch closed, and that caused the led to blink two times, meaning the switch was stuck in the open position. I then tried opening and closing the switch right after turning on the unit, and this caused the igniter to glow.

After doing some research, I have a feeling the exhaust fan relay might not be functioning correctly. The exhaust fan does not hum, or attempt to turn on. However, I can freely turn the visible fan blades with my finger.

I have a volt meter and I'm not afraid to use it. Can someone help me find out which part is faulty?

Thanks so much!

Scott

P.S. I will include some photos to help you.





 
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Old 04-06-08, 04:21 AM
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Nice pictures...

To find out if the pressure switch is at fault, try this:
With your meter set to read ohms and the furnace OFF...disconnect the blue and white wires connected to the pressure switch. Put the meter leads on each one of the two terminals of the switch. The meter should show an infinite readout (open switch). Call for heat. Inducer blower kicks ON. Meter should now show "0" ohms (closed switch).

In other words, with the inducer OFF the contacts of the switch should be open...inducer ON should close them. they should neither be closed prior to the inducer running...nor should they stay closed after the inducer stops. And they must remain closed as long as the call for heat continues (and the inducer is up and running)

You may also run this test live:
1- turn the t-stat to OFF
2- disconnect the blue and white wires that connect to the pressure switch terminals (the one to the right of the inducer blower)
3- place a jumper between terminals W and R at the furnace,by the thermostat-terminal strip (below the transformer)...this simulates what the t-sta does, which is, the call for heat
4- the inducer blower will kick ON
5- Connect now the blue and white wires to each other.

If the furnace continues its process and fires as it would normally do, you have a hanging pressure switch.

Pressure switches have contacts that are expected to be in the open position prior to a t-stat call for heat. If the contacts are not open, the board prevents the furnace from firing. After the inducer kicks ON, these contacts are expected to close...if they were not to close, same deal, the board will not permit the furnace to fire the main burners.
 
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Old 04-06-08, 07:09 AM
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Thanks for the trick to simulate a t-stat heat call. I placed a paperclip between W & R, and it worked.

I'm getting stuck between step three and four because the inducer motor does not switch on.

I included a shot of the paperclip, and the meter with infinite ohms. I also tested the meter battery by touching the probes together and it read 0 ohms.

Thanks for your super fast response.

Scott


 
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Old 04-06-08, 07:48 AM
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Try reconnecting the blue & white wires back to the pressure switch prior to putting the R-W jumper; then put the R-W jumper and tell me if that changes anything.
 
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Old 04-06-08, 09:50 AM
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This time, the ohms measured about 1.5 on the blue & white leads connected to the pressure switch. When the meter is set to ACV / 150, the reading is around the 200 mark. To be honest, I'm not sure which number to read off the meter. Here is a picture, is it reading 200 V or more like 2.4 V?

When I put on the RW jumper, it makes one quiet click on the circuit board somewhere, then a few seconds later, the red led blinks three times. The inducer motor does not turn on, or hum or anything.

 
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Old 04-06-08, 10:01 AM
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Very odd meter that only has one reading scale: 1000. *If* you had chosen the 1000 setting your reading, and you got 190, then you'd really be at 190. But since your setting is about 6.5 less than that (at 150), then your reading would have to be divided by 6.5 also. I have no calculator on me. But I can readily see by doing math in my head that you are probably at about 24-28 volts AC, by doing this conversion.
 
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Old 04-06-08, 11:30 AM
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There's a good perspective. With that information, maybe I can add a zero to the bottom black digits, under the red gradient hashes marked by the label AC 15V. This might work, it's just weird how it's labeled. Also kinda hard to read on picture.
The big question is: "What does it mean when this specific reading is in the voltage range of 24-28 volts AC?"
I'm finding similar symptoms on the Internet pinpointing the vent relay. Where is this relay, what does it look like?
I can pull some of the wires off the circuit board and take a better picture if someone thinks they can spot it. Then, how do I test it when I find it? Oh, so many questions!

Thanks for all the answers so far!
 
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Old 04-06-08, 11:53 AM
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24+ volts ac is the current that the furnace transfomer puts out to take care of the low voltage needs of the thermostat and all the satety switches (except blower door safety interlock switch is the exception at 110 volts ac). You have to have that 24 volts show up through all the safeties and get into the control board to make your furnace work. The inducer motor gets sequenced through a 24 volt to 110 volt contactor inside.

If vent relay is on a board, I can't recall if they are replaceable without replacing the whole board. May be soldered in place.

Everybody here likes looking at pics.
 
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Old 04-06-08, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by strmtrupr2 View Post
This time, the ohms measured about 1.5 on the blue & white leads connected to the pressure switch. When the meter is set to ACV / 150, the reading is around the 200 mark. To be honest, I'm not sure which number to read off the meter. Here is a picture, is it reading 200 V or more like 2.4 V?

When I put on the RW jumper, it makes one quiet click on the circuit board somewhere, then a few seconds later, the red led blinks three times. The inducer motor does not turn on, or hum or anything.
Important: DO NOT use your meter for continuity testing with the wires connected back at the switch for the readings will be meaningless. With wires connected, you check for voltages, not resistances. BTW measuring for ohms with live power will kill your meter.
 
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Old 04-07-08, 06:49 AM
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Very good advise. I will remember the wires connected rule.

I took some pictures of different components on the circuit board. There was one panel in the middle that said not to remove, so I didn't remove it. There are more components under here, where we can't see them. Let's see if we can identify the vent relay from what we see here first.

Scott





 
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Old 04-07-08, 05:08 PM
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It's going to probably be one of those box shaped jobs. Which I do not know. But ask yourself this: Suppose it is bad. You have to get another one. So, CAN you just get another one, without buying the whole board? Who to ask? You might call up a mechanical supply house and ask for their city desk or heating dept., and ask them if they carry parts for your brand furnace, and if they can just get that relay. Be prepared in advance with make and model number of furnace. (In my town we have different supply houses and each one are carriers for different brand furnaces.)

If they have one, the part then would visually identify itself, if it matches one of yours.

I can't recall all that was discussed here, but you first need to confirm that the inducer motor can work if hot wired, or tested with meter to make sure that it is not dead. Or, if the wires going into the inducer motor had current going to it, when a call for heat, then this would also confirm that the inducer motor was junk.

Just be aware of this: If it requires de-soldering and resoldering if you get one, you have to know what you are doing enough to ensure you did a good job so there is not undo risk that some cold winter night while you are on vacation and the furnace goes out and the pipes all freeze. Although, this could also happen with any furnace malfunction.]
 
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Old 04-08-08, 03:19 AM
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These relays are typically soldered to board terminals...and it's a printed circuit board. That seems to be the case here. The relays here were not made to be replaceable...they come with the board and go with the board.
 
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Old 04-08-08, 06:12 AM
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I did check the Volts to the inducer with wires connected, and at no point does it read anything.

Should I also 'hot wire' the inducer? That sounds kind of fun, do we know how to do it?

I'll try and find a supply store and ask them if I can get the relay on its own.
 
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Old 04-08-08, 12:07 PM
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I stopped in for lunch. Thought I'd acknowledge your post. If no juice, then you have no power coming from the board. Then comes the question if you have 24 volts (if you have that, you also have 110 to the furnace) going thriough the thermostat and making it's way to the board. If there is, then it must be the board, as that inducer motor is the first thing that has to get going in the sequence of things, after the thermostat's call for heat.

I just left for work again, circled the block and came back as I thougt of something: Maybe if you have a fresh air damper in your system, that that has to engage first even before the inducer. I'm not sure on this. Maybe pflor has some idea. I don't do a lot of work on dampered furnaces; last time was 2 years ago. But I wanted to bring up the possilbility that if that was not working, that MAYBE, without me knowing that this could cause the inducer not to come on?

I'm off to the races again. Someone smelled gas briefly at commercial business I do work at. I'm suspicious of a Lennox furnace ignition attempt that faliled giving puff of gas, maybe.
 

Last edited by ecman51; 04-08-08 at 12:16 PM. Reason: Added more
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Old 04-11-08, 07:20 PM
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No fresh air damper, thanks for checking.

I purchased a new control board. It was quite a bit different, but that's what the replacement part is.
I drilled new holes to mount it, and wired it up like I have shown in the table below.
However, I'm getting a different error, The fault code is a rapid red flash, which references the condition 'Twinning error, incorrect 24V phasing'
I'm sure it means I didn't plug something into the correct slot, or some similar problem.

Some of the initial questions I have are:
1) Does it matter which PARK I use?
2) Does it matter which Neutral I use? I used the Neutral terminals indicated when referencing the the new board wiring diagram (below) and the traces to the specific components.
3) What's with the wiring harnesses? There's this BGU wiring diagram that shows pins 8 & 9 switched. I didn't go by this diagram, but maybe I should have?
Here is the mappings from each:
<table border="1" cellspacing="0" cols="5" frame="void" rules="groups"> <colgroup><col width="220"><col width="86"><col width="46"><col width="93"><col width="220"></colgroup> <tbody> <tr> <td align="center" height="17" width="220">
</td> <td align="center" width="86">
</td> <td align="center" width="46">Main Wiring Harness</td> <td align="left" width="93">
</td> <td align="center" width="220">
</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" height="17">
</td> <td align="center">
</td> <td align="center">
</td> <td align="center">
</td> <td align="center">
</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="right" height="17">Typical Wiring Diagram</td> <td align="center">
</td> <td align="center">Pin</td> <td align="center">
</td> <td align="left">BGU Wiring Diagram</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" height="17">Description</td> <td align="center">Wire Color</td> <td align="center"></td> <td align="center">Wire Color</td> <td align="center">Description</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" height="17">LS2 thing</td> <td align="center">Red</td> <td sdval="1" sdnum="1033;" align="center">1</td> <td align="center">Red</td> <td align="center">LS</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" height="17">Flame Sensor</td> <td align="center">Purple</td> <td sdval="2" sdnum="1033;" align="center">2</td> <td align="center">Yellow</td> <td align="center">Flame Sensor</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" height="17">24V side of Transformer</td> <td align="center">Black</td> <td sdval="3" sdnum="1033;" align="center">3</td> <td align="center">Grey</td> <td align="center">Transformer</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" height="17">
</td> <td align="center">Nothing</td> <td sdval="4" sdnum="1033;" align="center">4</td> <td align="center">Nothing</td> <td align="center">
</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" height="17">ROS1 thing</td> <td align="center">Black</td> <td sdval="5" sdnum="1033;" align="center">5</td> <td align="center">Red</td> <td align="center">ROS thing</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" height="17">24V / common side of Transformer</td> <td align="center">Blue</td> <td sdval="6" sdnum="1033;" align="center">6</td> <td align="center">Grey</td> <td align="center">Transformer</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" height="17">ILP thing – C side</td> <td align="center">White </td> <td sdval="7" sdnum="1033;" align="center">7</td> <td align="center">Orange</td> <td align="center">PS thing</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" height="17">Ground</td> <td align="center">Green</td> <td sdval="8" sdnum="1033;" align="center">8</td> <td align="center">Brown </td> <td align="center">GAS Valve</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" height="17">Gas Valve – 1 side</td> <td align="center">Black</td> <td sdval="9" sdnum="1033;" align="center">9</td> <td align="center">White</td> <td align="center">Ground</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" height="17">ILP thing – No side</td> <td align="center">Blue</td> <td sdval="10" sdnum="1033;" align="center">10</td> <td align="center">Orange</td> <td align="center">PS thing</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" height="17">ROSI thing</td> <td align="center">Brown</td> <td sdval="11" sdnum="1033;" align="center">11</td> <td align="center">Red</td> <td align="center">ROS thing</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" height="17">GAS Valve – 2 side</td> <td align="center">Yellow</td> <td sdval="12" sdnum="1033;" align="center">12</td> <td align="center">Brown </td> <td align="center">GAS Valve</td> </tr> </tbody> </table>

The rest of the post will document my current configuration. As always, thanks for the awesome advice. I think I'm almost there.

Scott
--------

I changed the jumper setting for the blower off delay to be 90, the same as the din switch setting on the old board.

This is how the connections on the control board relate from old to new:
Note: I compared the old wiring diagram, and it matches the new one. <table border="1" cellspacing="0" cols="3" frame="void" rules="groups"> <colgroup><col width="329"><col width="124"><col width="112"></colgroup> <tbody> <tr> <td align="left" height="17" width="329">Wire Color / Type</td> <td align="left" width="124">Old Connection</td> <td align="left" width="112">New Connection</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="left" height="17">Thick Blue</td> <td align="left">HEAT</td> <td align="left">HEAT</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="left" height="17">Thick Black</td> <td align="left">COOL</td> <td align="left">HI COOL</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="left" height="17">Thick Red</td> <td align="left">Top PARK</td> <td align="left">Left PARK</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="left" height="17">Brown wire with a Pink end cap</td> <td align="left">XFMR (hot)</td> <td align="left">XFMR (hot)</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="left" height="17">Brown wire with bare silver end</td> <td align="left">LINE (hot)</td> <td align="left">L1 (hot)</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="left" height="17">Black wire with a Blue end cap</td> <td align="left">HUM (hot)</td> <td align="left">HUM</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="left" height="17">White wire with a bare silver end</td> <td align="left">FAN</td> <td align="left">E 17 (neutral)</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="left" height="17">White wire with a Blue end cap</td> <td align="left">LINE</td> <td align="left">E 19 (neutral)</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="left" height="17">White wire with a Pink end cap</td> <td align="left">XFMR</td> <td align="left">E 18 (neutral)</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="left" height="17">White wire with a Blue strip near the bare silver end</td> <td align="left">HUM</td> <td align="left">E 20 (neutral)</td> </tr> </tbody> </table>
This table is how the transformer is hooked up:
(I drew an error on the close side of the transformer with an arrow pointing up to help me remember how to mount it.) <table border="1" cellspacing="0" cols="2" frame="void" rules="groups"> <colgroup><col width="329"><col width="124"></colgroup> <tbody> <tr> <td align="left" height="17" width="329">Transformer</td> <td align="left" width="124">
</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="left" height="17">Black</td> <td align="left">Arrow Side Bottom</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="left" height="17">Blue</td> <td align="left">Arrow Side Top</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="left" height="17">Brown</td> <td align="left">Other Side Bottom</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="left" height="17">White</td> <td align="left">Other Side Top</td> </tr> </tbody> </table>
The bottom t-stat wires jacketed in the main white bundle went to the letter that started the color of the wire.
The white wire in the brown jacket is connected to Y/Y2, as well as the Yellow wire in the White jacket. I think the brown jacket goes out to the compressor. Y1 does not have any wires connected to it.
Then, the only other wire in the brown jacket, the red one, went to the C connector.

Old board:


New board:


Diagram of new board:


Wiring diagram for new board:


BGU Wiring - What is this for?
 

Last edited by strmtrupr2; 04-11-08 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 04-11-08, 10:22 PM
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Hi again,

I read another post with a similar problem. It said to check the volts on the black & white wires going to the board. I did this and the black one had major voltage, and the white nothing.

Should I swap the inputs on the transformer anyway?

Here is that other post:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=324342

I switched the inputs on the transformer and it Works!
Did I do the right thing? Is there another side effect of this that I need to worry about?

Did I do the right thing hooking up both t-stat wires that were giong to the old Y terminal to the new Y/Y2 terminal?

Thanks again!

Scott
 

Last edited by strmtrupr2; 04-11-08 at 10:52 PM.
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Old 04-12-08, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by strmtrupr2 View Post
BGU Wiring - What is this for?
It is showing all your safety switches, and how it finally allows power to go through all the switches when they close, to open up the gas valve; like 3 rollout switches up top + pressure switch + limit switch, etc. The letters are abbreviations for those things I said.

Because it really is not your fault that they redesigned the board on you, you can contact the company and said you bought their control board in good faith and cannot figure out how to convert from what you had, to what you now have. And tell them you did not blindly disconnect wires from jack terminals and spades and you have it documented how they went on the old board and you have to know how to get all thsoe wires on the new board.
 
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Old 04-12-08, 11:34 AM
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The old board is a Johnson Controls (York was purchased by them in 2005). The new one is an Emerson, not a JC. Did the vendor (Source 1) guarantee 100% compatibility for the given M/N & S/N of this furnace?
 
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Old 04-12-08, 12:27 PM
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Yes. In fact, I was very surprised to see that the board looked completely different. After much discussion, they let me see the screens they were using to look up the part. I followed it back through like 20 revisions of boards that supersede my original. It was, in time, clear that this is The board that is The replacement for the M/N S/N of my furnace.

Thanks for checking

Scott
 
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Old 04-12-08, 12:32 PM
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In reply to the BGU answer, I was able to match the Typical config with my old config. I was more wondering what BGU stands for and why the BGU config has pins 8 & 9 switched on the wiring harness. More of a trivial question, I apologize for not clarifying.
However, your reply is very empowering. I am the customer in this situation, and even though I'm not a licensed repair person, I should be able to call them and ask this type of fundamental question. Thank you for your perspective on this.

Scott
 
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Old 04-12-08, 01:40 PM
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Good luck to you. Whatever else follows in this thread, let us know how it all finally turns out for you. I can't really help you much here.
 
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Old 08-03-08, 04:16 PM
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It's summertime now, and I just thought I'd jet back and let you know that the A/C works too

I did do the right thing in hooking up both t-stat wires that were going to the old Y terminal to the new Y/Y2 terminal.

Thanks so much for all your help last winter!

Scott
 
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Old 12-27-08, 04:19 PM
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I have the same problem can you help me

WE also replaced our control board because the blower relay burnt away from the printed cuircut board. After replacement I get the twinning error- 24 volt . if I disconnect the thermostat wires the system returns to normal opperation and the light blinks green slowly. if I jump the red and white the vent fan starts like a call for heat and -within 5 seconds the main fan kicks on. Then the red light flashes the twinning error. Twinning errors usualy mean two furnaces wired to run together but I only have one. The igniter never lights and of course the burners dont come on. So right now the fan motor is bypassed from the old board and pluged into the wall and the rest of the furnace works just like its susposed to useing the old board. Now its not automatic like it should be-- the fan runs all the time. Its cold here and thats all I could do on Christmas and all.
I'm pulling out my hair as you did with all the wiring questions and i did the same thing you did by following the wiring diagram from the furnace front panel. I traced every wire and I feel sure the new board is wired correctly. One difference is the y1 and y2 I used y1, then I removed all but the red and white as that should send a heat needed signal.

How did you resolve this problem.??
thanks for listening and i hope you have the answer.
jim greene
 
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Old 12-27-08, 04:39 PM
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Whew, let's start off by saying that I am not a professional anything.

Next, how do you know it's a twinning error? I don't think my diag chart had that listed.

When I think of your burners not lighting, I try to imagine all the safty checks that have to be good before it will light. For example, thermostat, exhaust vent fan, etc.. My feeling is that when you 'bypassed the fan' you may have also bypassed other safety checks.

In the past my flame checker thing went, I think it's called a flame rod or something. I used some sand paper and cleaned it off and then it worked again.

OK, well that wasn't much help.

Maybe you can post the diag chart on here and tell us how many blinks you get so we can see if it might be a twinning / something else error.

Your best hope is to get one of the more seasoned furnace repair dudes to reply with some real advice

Good Luck!

Scott
 
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Old 12-27-08, 07:21 PM
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new control board problem

My actual question is what transformer wires did you swap,
I only hot wired the fan so my friends have heat for christmas and that is on the old board.

As soon as these problems arised I removed he new board and put the old one back in, funny how everything except the fan works on the old board and nothing but the fan works on the new board and both the vent fan and main fan start to quick to allow the burners to light.
All this leads me to believe its either the wrong board (we traded this one for the right one once already) or there is a phasing of the 24 volt system problem.
thanks for the reply
 
  #26  
Old 12-27-08, 08:42 PM
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tttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt
 

Last edited by Skip4661; 12-27-08 at 08:45 PM. Reason: delete
  #27  
Old 12-27-08, 10:32 PM
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I didn't swap any transformer wires, they matched up.

I think ecman51's quote sums this up:

Originally Posted by ecman51` View Post
Because it really is not your fault that they redesigned the board on you, you can contact the company and said you bought their control board in good faith and cannot figure out how to convert from what you had, to what you now have. And tell them you did not blindly disconnect wires from jack terminals and spades and you have it documented how they went on the old board and you have to know how to get all thsoe wires on the new board.
Scott
 
  #28  
Old 12-28-08, 08:41 AM
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What does ttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt mean

Hey Skip4661,
What does tttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt mean??
Is it a code for I DONT KNOW, or I DONT CARE,
Man if you cant help just dont post.
Sorry if I just cant figure out you code!
GFY in the meantime.
 
  #29  
Old 12-28-08, 11:48 AM
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He deleted his post. You are required to have 25 characters in a post. He simply chose "t's".
 
  #30  
Old 12-29-08, 08:57 PM
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Johnson Controls, 24 volt phasing problem

Sorry but the frusrtration factor has set in. Its amazing how a manufacturer can sell a part and expect someone to know how to install it. I have a lot of electrical background and can read an electrical diagram. They also sent 3 new wiring harnesses that must be for one of many that this board fits along with w standard wiring diagram and a suplemental sheet that was terrible and hard to read. Although different they all do the same thing so it would be possible to make any board fit any furnace, Thing is should I have to pay a good price for the board and then hire an electrical engineer to figure out how to rewire and what to rewire. Shame on you johnson controls.
I'm sure that thier answer is something like you should hire a hvac technician to fix something like a furnace.
I have worked on this problem for 3 days and I'm sure that a technician would have had the same problem as I. Tomarrow I may hear from johnson controls tech dept and maybe some insight into this problem. Their number is 1-800-536-6112
 
  #31  
Old 12-29-08, 09:37 PM
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Sorry, I am having a problem following this thread! I am sure I could have some positive input. I am very familiar with your furnace and the new board. What exactly is the problem?
 
  #32  
Old 12-30-08, 01:45 AM
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Originally Posted by oldfunguy View Post
Sorry but the frusrtration factor has set in. Its amazing how a manufacturer can sell a part and expect someone to know how to install it.
It's not especially unusual to have manufacturers revise parts significantly, and usually there are no instructions provided that describe how to install the part --- not surprising since often a part can have a variety of different applications.

A skilled repairman will be able to figure out how to adapt the new part to the application at hand. A lot of unskilled repairmen will recommend replacement of the furnace because they can't figure out how to solve the problem.

That said, I've just looked at this thread for the first time, and I'm not up to speed on what the problem may be.

You have done a good job of photographing relevent information which might allow someone to figure out what's going on, but I'm not going to do that at this point.
 
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Old 12-30-08, 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by oldfunguy View Post
They also sent 3 new wiring harnesses that must be for one of many that this board fits along with w standard wiring diagram and a suplemental sheet that was terrible and hard to read. Although different they all do the same thing so it would be possible to make any board fit any furnace

The nice thing about having all those multiple wire plugs is that it's usually easy to replace a circuit board --- one plug and you make many connections.

But getting new wiring harnesses suggests you may need to rewire the plugs to make them work with the new board. That might be something of a challenge.

If that's the case, I'd do that step by step, wiring in each control and operating circuit one by one and testing it at each step to make sure it's doing what it should to that point.

On the bright side, xpogi says he's familiar with the furnace and installing the replacement board. Perhaps his experience will simplify things here.
 
  #34  
Old 12-30-08, 02:08 AM
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Mysterious BGU Wiring

The BGU Wiring that was mysterious seems to be a York furnace model number:

http://www.hamiltonhomeproducts.com/...001-D-0403.pdf


One minor mystery solved, I think.
 
  #35  
Old 12-30-08, 02:15 AM
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It may be a bit late, but it looks like the original York circuit board is available on E-bay:

York Furnace Control Board 031-01973-000 031-01933-000 - eBay (item 260307000110 end time Jan-25-09 17:28:21 PST)
 
  #36  
Old 12-30-08, 07:56 AM
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Not sure how far you have gotten, what you have done etc. here are some suggestions from somebody who is very failure with the new board. I won't say why and you can't make me!

Your original problem may have been caused by a stuck-closed pressure switch because the inducer will not come on if the control board sees continuity across the switch when it gets a call for heat. You may have already fixed this problem. I really can't follow the thread that well.

The "twining error" failure code is actually a bug in the firmware of the new circuit board. What you have is a grounding or polarity problem. The Emerson board is much more "particular" about grounding and polarity than the original board was. Check the following and correct if necessary:

Make sure the white (power) wire coming from your fuse or circuit breaker box is connected to the white power wire on the furnace and that it is actually neutral. Check with an AC Voltmeter. You should have less than five volts between the white wire and the green wire. If you have more you have an improper ground on your house wiring. Better have an electrician check it out. Oh, and the furnace must have a good ground. If you have an older house without three wire power you will have to supply true ground to the furnace. Also probably a job for a licensed electrician.

The Emerson board (unlike the original board) must have the 115V and 24V circuits in phase so it is very important that the transformer be wired correctly. Make sure on the furnace's transformer that the brown primary wire is directly across from the black secondary wire. The white primary wire must be directly across from the blue secondary wire. Don't get the primary (115V) or secondary (24V) wires mixed up or you will burn up your circuit board. The white primary wire goes to one of the circuit board's neutral terminals and the brown primary wire goes the "XFMR" terminal. The two secondary wires go to the 12-pin plug. The transformer should be marked "LINE" for primary (115V) and "LOAD" for secondary (24V).

Hope this helps and hope I am not too late. Sorry just found this board a couple of days age.
 
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Old 12-30-08, 10:25 AM
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Two treads into one

Sorry I know its confusing with all the threads.
Important things are, I hardwired the fan over christmas so my friends would have heat. Everything besides the main fan works good, all the limit switches ,burner, igniter. So now the fan is not automatic-(runs all the time).
New board- I checked and rechecked wiring diagram to be sure all was hooked up right. When I turned everything on and held the door switch in -the vent fan came on and within 5 seconds the main fan came on not allowing the igniters or the burners to activate. The control light blinked red fast with the twinning -24 volt phasing error. Then I unhooked the thermostat wires and the control light returned to the green normal state. I then jumped the white and red for a call for heat. Same thing happened as above.

In your reply you said the 24 volt wiring to the transformer might be incorrect, ( I never changed either)- but I will check all the other things you said could be wrong. When you said directly across --IE one side of transformer or should I look for line and load.
Thanks very much for your time !!
jim
 

Last edited by oldfunguy; 12-30-08 at 10:41 AM.
  #38  
Old 12-30-08, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by oldfunguy View Post
Sorry I checked and rechecked wiring diagram to be sure all was hooked up right. ...In your reply you said the 24 volt wiring to the transformer might be incorrect, ( I never changed either)- but I will check all the other things you said could be wrong.
Thanks very much for your time !!
jim
I assume you are running with the old control board with the fan hard wired. So the fan relay on that board must be bad. Yes, you need the new board you can't replace the relay.

Now about the new board. Just make sure the transformer is wired the way I specified because if you have the polarity wrong you will get the twinning error and if you cross the 24V and 115V wiring you will ruin your new board. Your old board would not have detected the phasing problem so even if you did not disturb the transformer wiring, that could very well be your problem. Also check for a good neutral on the white power wire and a good ground to the furnace because the old board may not have detected that problem either.

PLEASE be very careful about the transformer wiring. If you are not sure which side of it is the 115V side ask someone for help. I don't want you burning up your new board. If you hook it up backwards you will in effect have a step-up transformer, applying 400 volts to the control board! On some furnaces the terminal size is smaller for the 24V side so it is hard to wire them backwards but I am not sure if your furnace is that way.
 

Last edited by xpogi; 12-30-08 at 11:20 AM.
  #39  
Old 12-30-08, 03:59 PM
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Question On why the fan relay blew in the first place

I checked everything from electrical panel ground to the disconect and into the board. good neutral, good ground to the sheetmetal aroung the board. Transformer is labeled well and wired like you stated.
Old board had a ring terminal under one of the mounting screws as a ground. new board has no place for a ground only netural. I checked other end of thermostat wires and they apear to be on the correct termimals, it is old but works fine with the old board. I dont think the thermostat has any bearing here because it does the same thing when disconected and jumped terminals.
Polarity on the transformer is correct as is the netural to each side I get 26.7 to 28 volts on load side 24 volt side and 120.8 to the line side -each is marked as to voltage.
Only thing I can figure is something in the fan circuit
is closed or shorted or who knows I'm lost!!! Does the fan have any switches or limit controls
 
  #40  
Old 12-31-08, 07:26 AM
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Oldfunguy, I sent you a private message but I just though of something else. Check the fuse on the circuit baord. For some inexplicable reason, when the fuse is blown or missing on the Emerson boards the furnace will power up but the furnace will not light. I don't remember exactly what happens, I just remember it acts weird and won't light.
 

Last edited by xpogi; 12-31-08 at 09:51 AM.
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