Advice for plumbing indoor wood boiler

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Old 09-30-08, 01:29 PM
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Advice for plumbing indoor wood boiler

Hi guys!

New project---I picked up an older used Energy-Mate indoor wood boiler that I want to install. There was an add-on boiler used once before, and there are two seperate masonry chimneys side-by-side. I want to eliminate the blower on the wood boiler, and instead have a manual draft disc, like a boiler view window. Although the water should circulate between the wood and oil boilers, I want to have a circulator set to run a zone if the water exceeds a certain high temperature in the wood boiler jacket. The boiler came with no manuals, so I'm looking for any and all advice and suggestions from you pros. I can sweat pipes in with the best of them, but know nothing what-so-ever about circulators, hooking them up, or where in the line they should be placed.

Here are some pics of the boiler I have up at photobucket.com:

<a href="http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate/?action=view&current=P1010186.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate/P1010186.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate/?action=view&current=P1010187.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate/P1010187.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate/?action=view&current=P1010188.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate/P1010188.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
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Old 09-30-08, 06:10 PM
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Question energy mate wood boiler

Hey Jim,

I have the exact same thing in my garage, hooked up as a supplement to my furnance. It came with house, last owners lived here 5 years and never used it. It has it's own chimney. Seems like it is ready to go, but I would like to get ahold of a manual to make sure it is truely hooked up right, before I fire it up. I searched the internet, can't find one. If you find anything please please let me know, and I will do the same. I would love not to go broke paying for oil this winter and instead take a nice vacation in the spring.

Thanks
Ginny
 
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Old 09-30-08, 06:59 PM
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I've never delt with these unit before, but is there any model # on the unit itself?

If you got it, please post it and see if we can find something for you..
 
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Old 10-01-08, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
I've never delt with these unit before, but is there any model # on the unit itself?

If you got it, please post it and see if we can find something for you..
Jay,

I've been trying all over to get info on these, but all I've found is folks like Ginny who are also seeking information and paperwork. None of the boilers seem to have any identifying info on them except, "Energy-Mate ERDC Tomah Wisc."

I've burned wood on and off (depending on the price of oil) for the past 30 years, but only in wood stoves/fireplace inserts until this year, and I actually sold stoves and inserts ~ 25 years ago. With 100+ acres, I have enough in dead/dying trees and those that get taken down by storms that I seldom cut a tree down for firewood.

I was just more or less looking for the basics of properly plumbing this unit for the best efficiency and troublefree operation, which is why I am considering the manual draft. I always felt that the constant extremes of flaring up followed by prolonged periods of smouldering when using a blower both wasted good firewood and encouraged creosote more than a steady moderate burn. Also, I've never had any experience with placement and installation of, or proper setting up of thermostatically controlled circulators.

Any help I can get from the folks out there who are more knowledgeable than me would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 10-04-08, 07:49 AM
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model numbers

I found a old flyer, says there are 2 model numbers, 7848-b, 24" wide, 48" high, 30" depth, wgt 650lbs, and another model 7836-b 22/36/26, 500lbs. Cast iron doors are only on 7848 model. Mine is 7848-b. There is a manufactor "energy research and development corporation", Tomah, WI the phone number is a wrong number. Still looking for a manual, no luck so far. I am looking foward to speading my saved fuel money on vaction, this spring. Any information will help.


Thanks Ginny
 
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Old 10-04-08, 11:01 AM
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sorry for not posting back, I tried to find any info, and I am wondering if the company is no longer around.

Sorry that I could not been more help..
 
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Old 10-04-08, 06:02 PM
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jim this is my first post here but it appears your feed comes out of the top and your return would be the larger tapping on the back of the unit. The two smaller pipes are probably a tankless coil in the unit that can be used for heating domestic potable hot water, or simply capped. If you have another boiler, the best way to pipe this up would be with one circulator, one loop going from the feed and return on the wood boiler that loop will pass through your primary boiler. The pressure relief valve and the boiler drain on your primary boiler can be taken off, then come out of those 2 tappings with tees and put the relief valve and drain back in. This leaves you with 2 more tappings on your primary boiler for you to work with. Bring the feed and return from your new wood boiler into these two tappings with a circulator on the new loop. Mount the circulator on either the feed or return going to the wood boiler. Then you need a low limit aquastat set to about 130 or so and a 120V relay to turn the circulator on when the wood boiler is hot and to turn it off when cold. When you light a fire in the wood boiler, the aquastat will turn the circulator on, pumping hot water through your primary boiler. Your primary boiler will sense this hot water, have no idea where its coming from, but will not turn on its own burner as it will have no need to, saving you fuel. So with your primary boiler having this new source of heat your primary boiler circulator pump, zone valves, tankless coil, etc. will continue to do their job heat your home and hot water the way they always have. If you could post up a few pics of your other boiler i can give you some more personalized advice. I work for a plumbing/heating company and have installed/fixed way too many boilers.
 
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Old 10-26-08, 07:41 PM
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Energy mate in Iowa

I have just bought a unit very similiar to this but no extra coil for tap water.I have been heating my garage with infloor heat powered by an elec.water heater.13.5 cent a kw is pricey!!Could I hook these two units together with the enegy-mate as primary & the water heater as back-up?Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.Thank you!

Jon
 
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Old 11-21-08, 07:27 AM
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I got a 7848 from a brother in law, My father in law installed it years ago when he owned the house. He bought it brand new and even though he installed it he never ran it.I do have some paperwork that came with it but no owners manual. It came with a piping diagrapm , A lot like the one on the Benjimain woodboiler website. It also came with a wiring diagram but a pretty simple design.
How good do these boilers work. I notice that you have covers all the way around the outsuide of your, are they just sheetmetal covers, mine is missing them when I go down to pick up the boiler I will have to look for them. Sometimes my father in law had the habbit of doing things half-......... . Is there insulation under the covers.
If you guy need any of the diagrapms I have I can try and email them to you, but they are quite fadded
 
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Old 12-01-08, 03:12 PM
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energy mate wood boiler

would like to see if steveip could email the energy mate electrical diagram to me justright
 
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Old 12-01-08, 03:20 PM
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energy mate wood boiler

would like to see if steveip could email the energy mate electrical diagram to me justright
 
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Old 12-04-08, 07:39 PM
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sorry I just saw your post. If I figure out how to send a email tosomeone on this post I will send you copys of my papers
 
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Old 12-11-08, 01:05 AM
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I thought we received an e-mail if someone responded to our posts. Anyway, I hope to get this thing installed by this weekend, FINALLY!! Here are some photos of the unit set into place along side the oil boiler, as well as some shots of the oil boiler and connections, if anyone has suggestions for installation:

<a href="http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/?action=view&current=1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/1.jpg" border="0" alt="1"></a><br>

<a href="http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/?action=view&current=2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/2.jpg" border="0" alt="2"></a><br>

<a href="http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/?action=view&current=3.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/3.jpg" border="0" alt="3"></a><br>

<a href="http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/?action=view&current=4.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/4.jpg" border="0" alt="4"></a><br>

<a href="http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/?action=view&current=5.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/5.jpg" border="0" alt="5"></a><br>

<a href="http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/?action=view&current=6.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/6.jpg" border="0" alt="6"></a><br>

<a href="http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/?action=view&current=7.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/7.jpg" border="0" alt="7"></a><br>

<a href="http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/?action=view&current=8.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/8.jpg" border="0" alt="8"></a><br>

<a href="http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/?action=view&current=9.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/9.jpg" border="0" alt="9"></a><br>

<a href="http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/?action=view&current=10.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh164/jimkarkheck/Energy-Mate%202/10.jpg" border="0" alt="10"></a><br>





There are four connections on the back of the wood boiler. Because we already have a domestic tank heated by the water from the oil boiler, I'm going to plug the top two smaller fittings for domestic, and just focus on the primary connections (lower) ones. My question is what would be the most efficient way to route things. Also, should I have a circulator for a separate zone in case the temp gets too high in the wood boiler without sufficient demand for heat?

As mentioned previously, rather than hook up the blower, which I think wastes wood, I'd rather put a disc like a burner view window over the mounting hole, and manually set it for a moderate, consistent, burn rate.
 
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Old 12-11-08, 04:08 PM
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Jim the 2 lower holes are the feed inlets. The top center one is the output. I am trying to attach a piping diagram but if it doesn't work, check out the benjiman wood boiler site they have pretty good diagrams. my wiring diagram are kinda on the weak printed side.


<img src="<a href="http://s33.photobucket.com/albums/d65/steve4300/?action=view&current=boiler.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d65/steve4300/boiler.jpg" border="0" alt="boiler"></a>">
 
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Old 12-11-08, 06:37 PM
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I hope this works , Here is the wiring diagram I have I think there is a better way to wire it and as an electrician I know how I want to do it but how to show it is different story. Your boiler looks in good shape. Is there insulation under your metal covers I guess I will have to make my own if I can't find them.
 
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Old 12-12-08, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by steviep View Post
I hope this works , Here is the wiring diagram I have I think there is a better way to wire it and as an electrician I know how I want to do it but how to show it is different story. Your boiler looks in good shape. Is there insulation under your metal covers I guess I will have to make my own if I can't find them.

Hi Stevie,

Thanks for the reply, although I just got it awhile ago. We had a nasty ice storm yesterday that took out power and internet service until this afternoon.

Although your wiring diagram didn't show in the post, I was able to play around and find it on photobucket. I'm not sure I'll be using it, however, since like I said previously, I want to try a manual air inlet, i.l.o. the blower. However, the piping diagram makes sense; i.e. bringing the return water in the low (cooler) part of the boiler, and sending the heated water out the top. I'll give this stuff to my HVAC buddy and let him decide how to proceed.

Regarding the metal top and side covers on the boiler, no, there is no insulation. I don't suppose it would hurt, as long as there was nothing combustible there, for example the traditional fiberglass bats with paper. The main reason for the covers is to cut down on the required clearances from combustibles. Generally, clearance from the walls of a wood stove or single walled boiler firebox to combustible surfaces is 36", and 18" from single-walled stove pipe. Sheet metal no less than 28 gauge, mounted on non-combustible spacers 1" - 2" from a combustible surface, with an air gap of about 1" - 2" from the floor cuts the required clearance 66%. In other words, doing so allows you to get as close as 12". The sides of the boiler work in that manner, although the back has no protection, so I will have to mount sheet metal between the boiler and the sheet rock wall.

Here are a couple links which might make those points clearer:

NASD: Wood Stove Installation and Operation

NFPA Wall Clearance Reductions | Hearth Wiki

If you have any other questions, or want to e-mail me something directly, I sent you a Private Message yesterday with my e-mail address. There are just too many spammers floating around to publish it in these public posts.

Thanks too all for suggestions.
 
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Old 12-22-08, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by escape041899 View Post
I found a old flyer, says there are 2 model numbers, 7848-b, 24" wide, 48" high, 30" depth, wgt 650lbs, and another model 7836-b 22/36/26, 500lbs. Cast iron doors are only on 7848 model. Mine is 7848-b. There is a manufactor "energy research and development corporation", Tomah, WI the phone number is a wrong number. Still looking for a manual, no luck so far. I am looking foward to speading my saved fuel money on vaction, this spring. Any information will help.


Thanks Ginny
Is there any way I could get a look at that brochure. I think I have the 7836, but it's just the wood furnace, not boiler. I'm looking for any information on it, I can find. BTU's any parts available etc. Thanks.
 
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Old 01-10-10, 05:03 AM
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energy mate wood furnace need owners manual

Originally Posted by escape041899 View Post
I found a old flyer, says there are 2 model numbers, 7848-b, 24" wide, 48" high, 30" depth, wgt 650lbs, and another model 7836-b 22/36/26, 500lbs. Cast iron doors are only on 7848 model. Mine is 7848-b. There is a manufactor "energy research and development corporation", Tomah, WI the phone number is a wrong number. Still looking for a manual, no luck so far. I am looking foward to speading my saved fuel money on vaction, this spring. Any information will help.


Thanks Ginny
HI i am looking at buying a energy mate wood furnace it stands about 4' tall and 2' wide and 32" deep does anyone know what model it is?? I cant find any tags or ul list tags. I also wonder what btu it is? I need to install it according to owners manual for insurance reasons so i need manual. Or any names of people that use to sell these. Who bought them out?Thanks jonathon
 
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