furnace problem

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  #1  
Old 10-21-08, 08:36 PM
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furnace problem

i have a rheem model FGDJ-10EBRGR with a ceramic ignitor.the system will start and the draft fan will run,green lite is lite on the control board and valve opens to release gas,but the ignitor will not glow.i did replace the ignitor and cleaned the flame sencor.i also read about testing the pressure switch for the draft motor and it works.i have been reading that the integral furnace control could be bad,but i dont want to spend the money if i dont have to.what do u think i could be over looking?
 
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  #2  
Old 10-22-08, 04:43 AM
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anybody.i see ppl looking but no replys yet.we need heat.lol
 
  #3  
Old 10-22-08, 07:35 AM
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I'd help if I could but I know absolutely nothing about your furnace. Unfortunately the furnace professionals are all quite busy at this time of year and it might take a while before one finds time to post.
 
  #4  
Old 10-22-08, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by bigbadrat View Post
i have a rheem model FGDJ-10EBRGR with a ceramic ignitor.the system will start and the draft fan will run,green lite is lite on the control board and valve opens to release gas,but the ignitor will not glow.i did replace the ignitor and cleaned the flame sencor.i also read about testing the pressure switch for the draft motor and it works.i have been reading that the integral furnace control could be bad,but i dont want to spend the money if i dont have to.what do u think i could be over looking?
That's just what -I- had today! Exactly! It turned out to be a bad connection at my module, that did exactly what yours is doing.

Trace your HSI wires back to the board, either physically, (even if you have to untie straps around wires, in order to separate them and see, and then neatly rebundle them when you are done), or find out from the wiring diagram that is sometimes on the inside cover of the blower door. Then see if when the furnace runs, with the blower door safety switch engaged (use tape or something creative, if need be, if that compartment is where the ignition control is. But if instead it is in the burner compartment, then you can leave that blower door on), that you have 120 volts at the connections.

It will take quite a number of seconds after the inducer motor starts, so when testing with the volt meter be sure to hold it on the connections being tested, at least until the gas valve opens.

Do yo hear any sort of click,comign from soemthing onthe board at the time the HSI shoudlight up. (Mine did, today, even though I had a bad connection at the HSI connections down at the module (I have a module - you have a board. Basically the same thing)

Make sure all spade and pin connections are good! Remove an replug them on. If loose, close them some with pliers BEFORE reinstalling, so they slip back on tight.

Loosen and retighten the green ground wire connections!

See if you have an L1(line voltage 1) listed on the board, and see if you get 120 volts there, between it and to any ground.

Look for signs of loose solder joints or arced objects on the board.

Let us know what you find.
 
  #5  
Old 10-22-08, 07:16 PM
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well i just went and checked the wiring and it all seemed fine.still nothing.the flame light will only blink when i first push the door switch.i cant tell if i hear any clicking from the control board.is it possible for me to have gotten a bad heat sensor?
 
  #6  
Old 10-22-08, 07:44 PM
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you will need to verify that you have 120vac at ignitor with a voltmeter at the time you hear the gas valve click open....you can unplug the ignitor and check it at wiring harness...if you have 120volts there ,you will need to ohm out the ignitor(sorry i don't know the exact value but i would [email protected] ohms) or replace it.....they crack very easily....if you don't have 120vac at p lug you will have to go to the circuit board and check the terminals the ignitor hooks to... could be bad board
 
  #7  
Old 10-22-08, 07:49 PM
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well i dont have anything to test that with,plus i have been reading about the board might be bad and just dont want to put out the money and it not be it.
 
  #8  
Old 10-22-08, 07:55 PM
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without a meter you are kind of stuck....guessing can get expensive...probably going to have to bite the bullet and call a service company....sorry
 
  #9  
Old 10-22-08, 08:06 PM
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i know and if i had a meter,i wouldnt know the first thing about reading it.lol.bad part is i have a cousin that works for a place but he only installs the duct work and units but doesnt work on them.my other cousin is dating a guy that works for a place but i cant get ahold of him.family techs r the way to go if u can only get ahold of one.lol.thanks for ur help.
 
  #10  
Old 10-23-08, 04:47 PM
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ok i borrowed a DIGITAL MULTITESTER and now trying to figure out what setting to set it at to see if i have 120 volts.can somebody help me with that.
 
  #11  
Old 10-23-08, 04:49 PM
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You can buy meters cheap!

We can teach you how to read it. If you are really truly incapable of reading some numbers, or watch a needle move to numbers from left to right, then working on a furnace would be out of the question, sorry to say.

A volt-ohm meter (multimeter) is one tool everyone should own, as they are capable of saving you hundreds or thousands of dollars, for a DIY'er over years of using on cars, appliances, furnaces, batteries, alternator checks at battery, outlets, switches, fan motors, dryer elements, lid switches on washing machines - an almost endless list where pros come out and charge trip charge and big hourly fees.

My neighbor today had to bite it because he had no meter and did not know I work on furnace diagnosis/parts replacement, and I diagnosed his HSI ignitor was bad, but the furnace guys were already on their way. And I passed them coming, and there were TWO of them in the cube van! I told him for $20-30 for the part I would have thrown one in for him. (He was watching me today while I had my dads Ariens rider apart and starter taken apart in pieces, testing it and fixing the guts. Very gratifying day.)
 
  #12  
Old 10-23-08, 04:58 PM
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ok i am ready to learn.lol.ok so what setting do i set it?i read the booklet that came with it but unsure what to set at.
 
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Old 10-23-08, 05:25 PM
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You set it to the AC function, and set the range to a setting higher than 120. With many meters you set it to 200AC or 250AC. It will give the actual voltage number, with no conversion necessary. With AC voltage only, it does not matter if you put red lead to hot or black to hot. But it is a good practice to always put red test lead to your hot (black)wire.

Do you have a digital?, or analog(needle pointer)? If you have a digital, there will be 2 test wire leads, but 3 holes to choose which 2 to put the leads in. Have you figured that out, if you have that?
 
  #14  
Old 10-23-08, 05:29 PM
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i think i kind of figured it out.i set it ACV and at 200.i got a reading of 12.2.2 from the draft motor but when i did the ignitor,i got 4.5.5.now is that right?
 
  #15  
Old 10-24-08, 05:10 PM
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122.2 I think you meant. Anyway, that is what the ignitor should have also, if you have a 2-wire HSI that glows. You should get that reading right between the two wires if you unplug the jack leading to it. Obviously you check the 2 wires that are NOT connected to the HSI when you unplug it.

You will not get full voltage if the pressure switch or any other 24 volt safety series items are OPEN. The ignition process will not be allowed to begin unless all the safeties are satisfied that the furnace is in safe operating order.

If you have a 2-wire pressure switch, you could remove the two wires hooked to it and jumper them together. THEN see what the ignitor does. But if it works let's say, do not leave those jumpers on the pressure switch! This is just so you can test to figure out what is wrong. The reason there are those safety devices is either to protect the furnace, or you, from possible carbon monoxide.
 
  #16  
Old 10-24-08, 05:45 PM
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well i figure that the board was bad with the readings i got,so i went out and bought a new one.spent just under 100 for it and well now i have heat again.was alittle tricky figuring out the wires since this was a multiy replacement for other models.thanks again for ur help.i will use this forum for anything else i need help on.Beer 4U2
 
  #17  
Old 10-24-08, 06:12 PM
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Well, you got lucky this time - maybe. Did you read my recent post where I had a furnace I was working on, where the ignitor voltage was not working either? And it turned out to be a loose terminal prong inside the jack? The jack felt tight, yet the terminal was a scant loose!

In a case like yours, you could have, in theory, installed a new board, thinking that was it. And since it now works you are certain that was it, because you had now, unbeknownst to you, made better contact with the terminals when yuo rehooked up everything!

Not that WAS your case, but it COULD have been.

Another scenario is - you will not get the full voltage either if the furnace was not allowing the ignition process to proceed. Lie from teh drafting/pressure switch circuit. THAT wil no allow ignitor voltage either. Obviously, now, that was not your problem. but it COULD have been.

Tonight I had made a post in the appliances forum and got called away on a furnace job at a college girl's rental house. I thought I'd be there 5 minutes to turn on the furnace switch for the season, and check the filter. No such luck. The thing would not fire up, for about 10 back to back to back test runs. And the gas valve was getting 24 volts and faintly clicked, like it should. I checked all the gas valves, including meter, and asked the girl if the gas had been shut off and got turned back on = no. I could not smell, nor hear, nor feel any gas come out the orifices. I was ready to condemn the gas valve. UNTIL I disconnected the gas line and turned on the gas and smelled rotten air smell coming out at first. Then nice gas smell began to come out. I rehooked up the line, turned on the furnace, and rapped on the gas valve with the handle of my screwdriver as the gas valve was to open, and whoosh. Fire. Then I kicked myself for doing 2 fix-it procedures at once, as now I will never know what really the cause was. But I am betting on the stagnate gas in the long gas line from not having the furnace run all year. And tonight was the first night they tried to run it. Anyway - some OTHER furnace repair person MAY have just gone ahead and stuck in a new gas valve. And would have never known, since he would have had the gas line apart and purged it, and would have thought that since now it worked, it was the gas valve. See what I mean? (It could have been the valve too and the rapping jarred something loose.)
 
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