Sears Kenmore/Honeywell control module problem

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Old 10-23-08, 12:54 PM
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Sears Kenmore/Honeywell control module problem

Hello,

I have an older Sears Kenmore gas furnace that keeps going out and restarting. You can hear the click and whoosh, then continuous clicking, then click, whoosh, etc, it runs pretty much, best in cool but not cold weather, but something is wrong. I had Sears out, at first they said it needed a new plenum. Fortunately, it was still on warranty and they had to install a new one. They weren't happy to find that out, and still burned me $90 each for 2 service calls. It didn't fix the problem. Then they said it was the thermostat. I bought a new one and had it installed. No difference. Then another furnace guy said I needed a new Control Module. I checked my Sears Kenmore manual (furnace model #867.762331). The part was listed as #612919, Honeywell. They want over $200 for it, plus shipping, and I still have to pay someone to install it. From what I can see most control modules run about $80 online, but I don't know where to find the specific part online because the Sears number isn't the Honeywell number. Any ideas? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. A new furnace isn't in the cards for me right now, but this one is nickle and diming me to death. And we aren't even SURE its the control module, so we may not be done yet.

Thanks,

Dusty in Indianapolis
 
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Old 10-23-08, 03:38 PM
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Mor info, update

Hello, I just checked the actual part in my furnace, and it is a Honeywell S86F, intermittent Pilot, Non 100% Shutoff.

Maybe that will help.

Thanks,

Dusty
 
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Old 10-23-08, 05:14 PM
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Could be something as simple as pilot to ground sense of flame not registering at the module!

Or could be the draft through the furance, caused by the exhaust fan(also known as draft inducer or ventor) is right on the cusp of not working, and the pressure switch diaphram plunger is moving in and out. On many, if yo duck down just right, you can actually see the metal plunger rod pull away and open up a red switch, if you look just right, when the furnace starts up. To rule this out as the problem, or rule it in, you need to jumper the wires on the pressure switch, to each other. That works for a 2-wire pressure switch. If you have a NO and NC 3-wire pressure switch, you may first have to wait for the exhaust fan to run before you jump 2 of the wires to each other (can't remember which 2, but you could try each combination and see, if someone else here doesn't already know, off hand).

If that does not make the furnace run, then the pressure issue in the furnace is no it. Then we are back to likely an electrical issue with the burner-flamehood-grounding, or a bad module.

But also make certain every spade or pin-style connector terminal is tight! And do not take for granted because a jack connection at the module is tight, that the actual connector is! Take it from my experience yesterday, that ALMOST caused me to buy a new module($100-150) for nothing, until I discovered the split-pin type prongs on the L and IGN connections on the module were too smal a diameter and not making good contact inside the female jack, until I spread open each split-pin, to fix it! And the problem was solved, for free (except my labor to the landlord).

Working on furnaces can be most rewarding when you find some strange problem and fix it, without paying for wrong parts!

Can't believe they replaced the stat. All they would have had to do is jumper R and W in the furnace itself to find out if stat or stat wire was bad.
 
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Old 10-23-08, 09:33 PM
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Thanks so much, ECMAN, it gives me some things to check out!

Dusty
 
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Old 10-23-08, 09:55 PM
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Dusty, I had a similar problem, the ignitor would light the pilot, the burners would come on for 15-20seconds then go out and this process would just repeat itself. I took the ignitor/flame sensor out and cleaned it off. Lightly rubbed it with plumbers sand paper, reinstalled it and the furnace worked fine. Sometimes they gunk up with burned dirt and such.

I have a International comfort products/Tempstar NG furnace, not familiar with the sears furnace you have, but it might be a good idea to check the flame sensor. Let me know if this works for you.
 
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Old 10-25-08, 09:27 AM
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Same problem here

I'm having the same problem with the gas valve not staying open. The pilot light will light, the gas would come on but then go out after 4-5 seconds.
This furnace is in a house I just closed on so I'm not familiar with it.
I replaced the igniter and flame rod assy. before trying to get the system running so this part is new.
I shorted(closed) the ventor valve as well as 3 other safety(limit) switches individually as well as all of them at the same time.
This was done first with a new T-stat and then again with the R/W tied together.
I also disconnected and reconnected what I could hoping for a bad connection.
With all that done the gas to the burners stay on for only about 4-5 seconds. This will recycle a few times.
What do I have left to check? It shouldn't be the board, correct? Does this leave me with a bad gas valve?
I believe this is a Honeywell Smartvalve on a Sears furnace model GDE100F20G1, MFG NDN6100KFG1.

Any help is greatly appreciated;

Dan
 
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Old 10-25-08, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dvirga View Post
The pilot light will light, the gas would come on but then go out after 4-5 seconds.....

.....What do I have left to check?
Check that the pilot orifice is not obstructed.

If you have a separate flame sense probe at a far burner, make sure burner produces flame into the flame sensor.
 
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Old 10-25-08, 05:20 PM
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The flame sensor had flame to it.

I think I got it fixed. Hopefully it'll stay this way. I'd greatly appreciate it someone could explain what happened and why it works now(if possible).

What I did was remove the pilot, flame sensor and igniter assy. and pulled it a little ways from the furnace housing and then started the system. The igniter did its thing and then lit the pilot and then I used another flame to light the burners and they stayed lit. I put it back together and every thing seems fine.
I had that pilot and igniter assy. out earlier when I replace the igniter and sensor assy. so I don't think moving things around did the trick. Don't tell me gremlins.

Thanks for you help.
 
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Old 10-26-08, 12:09 AM
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Thanks so much, John619! I will let you know if that works for me!

Best wishes,

Dusty
 
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Old 10-29-08, 08:15 PM
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How do you test the control module?

Hey, guys, I need to pick your brains again. In the meantime I bought a used Honeywell S86F control module, it was out of a working furnace replaced with a heat pump system. I got the module, hooked it up, and all I get is clicking, it won't even light. The blower runs, that's it. How can I test the module itself to be sure it isn't defective? My old one would light, flame on, then flame off, over and over, then the furnace would just shut down. The new(er) module clicks, but won't start. Any ideas?

Dusty
 
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Old 02-06-09, 03:37 PM
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Unhappy Help need to replace an old honeywell s86f intermittent pilot

Please help i need to replace an old honeywell s86f intemittent pilot. Problem is i called honeywell stayed on hold for 20 min to get someone who spend 10 min asking for my name, number address etc. ( could not understand a word he said) probelly out sourcing. Anyway he refuse to tell me what the replacement model is . He said call a heating company. The heating company i had come out wants $600.00 to replace it. The furnace guy told me i could buy one and to it myself. No one will tell me what is the part i have to buy. Does anyone know what i can use to replace a honeywell s86f intermittent pilot????
Please help we live in illinois and have no heat at the moment. We are very strapped on cash.
Thank you
 
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Old 02-06-09, 04:16 PM
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Hello Mike---

It becomes confusing to have problems piggybacked one on top of another.

Please start a new thread and rtepost you question.
 
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Old 02-06-09, 04:20 PM
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I might add that the S86 Honeywell box tends to be very reliable, although they can fail.

You might want to consider posting the problems you are having with your furnace as well to see if we can help you verify that the ignition control is defective.
 
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Old 02-06-09, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by MIKE1488 View Post
The heating company i had come out wants $600.00 to replace it.
They must charge about $450 an hour. Or $390 + $60 trip charge. In that ballpark anyway.
 
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