Carrier Furnace shuts down after ignition

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  #1  
Old 11-21-08, 01:31 PM
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Carrier Furnace shuts down after ignition

I have a Carrier 58PAV090 that is about 7 years old. It wouldn’t turn on (althought it has worked this season), so I pulled the two panels and then put them back on. It tries to start up shuts down, here is what happens:
  • -main blower runs
  • -inducer blower runs
  • -glowing igniter glows
  • -gas kicks on and the 4 burners light, but then after a couple seconds it shuts off.
  • -it “trys” to light 3-4 more times, then stops.

The red light flashes and shows a code #14 (below). I cleaned the “flame sensor” with steel wool, as recommended on the sticker and recommendation for error #34, and even swapped the flame sensor with my duplicate furnace in the downstairs, but with the same results on the first furnace.

In summary it lights, but then shuts off for some reason (I'm assuming that it must be "sensing" that something isn't right and shuts down for saftey reasons). Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.


Here is what the sticker on the panel says about these errors:
#14 – IGNITION LOCKOUT – Control will auto reset after three hours. Refer to #34.

#34-IGNITION PROVING FAILURE – Control will try three more times before lockout #14 occurs. If flame signal lost after trial for ignition period, blower will come on for 90 second recycles delay. Check for (and then gives suggestions to fix this error).
 
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  #2  
Old 11-21-08, 05:21 PM
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Make sure all connectors are tight at board/module. You may want to remove and reinstall. Make there is a good ground with the ignition control board or module. Be sure flame is around flame sensor, and that burner is not dirty in that area.

Make sure pressure switch is staying closed when you see flame go out. If you find that it went open, then suspect condensate drain line possibly plugging up with water. If flame AND inducer fan go out at same time, you need to see if power from the stat is being interrupted.
 
  #3  
Old 11-21-08, 07:41 PM
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Thanks for your reply. I will check those items in the AM, thanks for the suggestions.

With regard to your suggestion on the "pressure switch": #1, I assume you are speaking of the switch that has a vacum hose on it, and #2. by "drain line" do you mean the drain line that the condensation water from the AC uses in the summer????
 
  #4  
Old 11-21-08, 08:19 PM
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Take the flame sensor out and clean it with some sandpaper. Its the little metal probe that sits in the flame, has one wire, and usually one bolt holding it in. it takes about five minutes and saves $75 for the heater guy visit.
 
  #5  
Old 11-22-08, 05:23 AM
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TAGIUS: Thanks for the suggestion. I actually did that. And then I even swapped the "flame senser" with the identical furnace I have in the basement, but still had the sames results, so that part is not the problem. Any other thoughts?
 
  #6  
Old 11-22-08, 01:34 PM
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Maybe it is the control board?

I tested the "high limit" switch and the "vacum" switch, by #1 taking them out of the system and testing continunity, and then putting a voltmeter on the circuit and to ground, and watched it the circuit close (continuity) when the inducer blower starts and creates the updraft. SO, I am convinced it is not either of those two sensors.

On the "flame sensor" I took the one out of the idential system in the basement and put it in this sytem and no go. And the flame sensor from the 1st system works in the 2nd system, and I cleaned both with fine steel wook. SO, I am convinced that is is not the "flame sensor" itself.

HOWEVER, I am thinking that somehow even though the "flame sensor" itself works, but maybe the circuit does not. I did make sure all of the connectors on the control board were seated, but still no luck.

So again (detailed info in the original posting below), the 4 burnners light, but then about 3-4 seconds later the flame goes out. It tries again 4 times, then the system shuts off and stops trying.

Any other ideas?
 
  #7  
Old 12-22-08, 01:06 PM
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Same problem for me :(

I have the same problem on a 6yr old Carrier.

I cleaned the flame sensor and replaced the ignitor. If I let the system cool down (I also recycle power to clear the LED code #14) it will start working. However, after it's been working for a couple of hours and it stops, the next time it comes on it has the same problem as described above.

So what was the final outcome??
 
  #8  
Old 12-22-08, 01:51 PM
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When the furnace fires does the flame from the left burner contact the flame sensor and the burner head , or does the flame lift off from the burner.
 
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Old 12-22-08, 03:44 PM
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The original poster made the assumption, by testing, that the parts in question were okay. When in reality, one does not know that until one can witness that they STAY okay when the flame shuts off.

If say a pressure switch is on the cusp of barely working, let's say, and then you test it while it is barely working, it will read good. But what if when the flame shut off, that it no longer is okay, say for reason that just a few extra dribbles of condensate, backed up into the secvondary heat exchanger, now weakens the drafting of the furnace to the point the pressure switch opens up. That is why you have to test immediately right when there is failure.

And/or you can do some routine maintenace stuff like, for one, blow out the condensate line both ways, and it's trap and then refill the trap with water so that CO gases do not come out a trap vent.

Or that the vacuum tube that leads to the poressure switch, is plugged up some at it's source. Not all the way -just SOME, so the switch is always on the cusp. Or that you have SOME ice outside at the exhaust or intake vents. Or that the ignitor is going bad. Not totally bad yet-going bad. Or you have tarnished spade connectors that really need to make better connections. Or instead, you have a jack with those pin connectors that have longitudinal splits in them (by design) where the pins have reduced in diameter, not making totally good contact everytime. (You can spread and enlarge them, for reinstituting better contact once again)) Or the module or board is not grounded as good as it should be.

Also observe what part of the sequence is failing, when it fails. That can tip us off.
 
  #10  
Old 12-23-08, 06:41 AM
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Thanks for the replies. I did adjust the flame sensor slightly and I also "gradually" used the furnace. Instead of trying to go from 60 to 68 all at once, I went up 1 degree at a time. The furnace has been running successfully for about 18 hrs so hopefully it's okay ... time will tell.

Thanks again! I discovered this site during this problem and you guys are great!!
 
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