Rheem Classic 90 Furnace - Won't Stay Lit - HELP
#1
11-29-08, 05:55 PM
Rheem Classic 90 Furnace - Won't Stay Lit - HELP
I have been doing some research on the net, and also here on this forum. It seems as if others have experienced the same problem, or similar, but the fixes are sometimes the same, and sometimes not. ...And I need HELP.
Here are my furnace specs:
Rheem Classic 90
Model# : RGRJ-07EYBES
Serial #: EB5D302F050302920
Mfg. Date: 01/2003
The problem is that when the thermostat calls for heat, the ignitor glows, the burners light. Sometimes they stay on for 5-10 seconds, then flame out. It repeats the process. When it does finally stay lit, things go along normal and the furnace will run, but will eventually flame out after running for 10-15 minutes. Usually before desired set temp is reached. Then the whole ignition flame out scenerio happens, then it will eventually lock itself out. Verified by single flashing green light on the board.
I have cleaned the flame sensor with steel wool. Problem still persists. I am going to order one, but can't get it shipped till Monday (This is Saturday).
I've owned this house for a year, and there were no issues last winter. I became aware recently when we were waking to a cold house, and then system was not running, when thermostat was calling for heat. Only way to reset was to turn power on and off.
I have noticed that when the top burner access panel is off/removed, in my troubleshooting attempts that this doesn't seem to happen at all. When it is running and I have flame, as soon as I put the panel on, it flames out. This may be coincidence... but is strange.
I've read about replacing pressure switches, flame sensor, replacing the whole board... now not sure what to do. But this is becoming a real headache.
I figure I will start with replacing the flame sensor, first. But any other suggestions would be appreciated. I don't see how I have a venting problem, in that nothing was wrong a year ago, and the previous owners would have gone thru this, too. I replaced the filter in the spring of 2008. I've looked at it, and it does not appear that dirty. The one I pulled six months ago was 5 times dirtier.
Here are my furnace specs:
Rheem Classic 90
Model# : RGRJ-07EYBES
Serial #: EB5D302F050302920
Mfg. Date: 01/2003
The problem is that when the thermostat calls for heat, the ignitor glows, the burners light. Sometimes they stay on for 5-10 seconds, then flame out. It repeats the process. When it does finally stay lit, things go along normal and the furnace will run, but will eventually flame out after running for 10-15 minutes. Usually before desired set temp is reached. Then the whole ignition flame out scenerio happens, then it will eventually lock itself out. Verified by single flashing green light on the board.
I have cleaned the flame sensor with steel wool. Problem still persists. I am going to order one, but can't get it shipped till Monday (This is Saturday).
I've owned this house for a year, and there were no issues last winter. I became aware recently when we were waking to a cold house, and then system was not running, when thermostat was calling for heat. Only way to reset was to turn power on and off.
I have noticed that when the top burner access panel is off/removed, in my troubleshooting attempts that this doesn't seem to happen at all. When it is running and I have flame, as soon as I put the panel on, it flames out. This may be coincidence... but is strange.
I've read about replacing pressure switches, flame sensor, replacing the whole board... now not sure what to do. But this is becoming a real headache.
I figure I will start with replacing the flame sensor, first. But any other suggestions would be appreciated. I don't see how I have a venting problem, in that nothing was wrong a year ago, and the previous owners would have gone thru this, too. I replaced the filter in the spring of 2008. I've looked at it, and it does not appear that dirty. The one I pulled six months ago was 5 times dirtier.
#3
11-30-08, 09:03 AM
The board has two LEDs on it. One is green and labeled "OK", and the other is orange and labeled "Flare".
The green light flashes once with a 2 sec pause. According to the code on back of panel, it means, "1 Hour Lock Out".
Also, I left the burner door off last night when I went to bed. Woke up this AM and it was in lockout, w/ same code. So, that theory of running with burner panel off may be shot, as a temporary crutch.
Thanks.
K
The green light flashes once with a 2 sec pause. According to the code on back of panel, it means, "1 Hour Lock Out".
Also, I left the burner door off last night when I went to bed. Woke up this AM and it was in lockout, w/ same code. So, that theory of running with burner panel off may be shot, as a temporary crutch.
Thanks.
K
#4
11-30-08, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by KLo827
and the other is orange and labeled "Flare".
If it is steady, then do you have a meter to check for voltage?
#6
11-30-08, 09:47 AM
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Then we need to take a reading on the pressure switch to see if it's dropping out on you...
However, it may be tricky to do since if this locks out once in awhile.
However, it may be tricky to do since if this locks out once in awhile.
#9
11-30-08, 11:45 AM
Originally Posted by Jay11J
Then we need to take a reading on the pressure switch to see if it's dropping out on you...
However, it may be tricky to do since if this locks out once in awhile.
However, it may be tricky to do since if this locks out once in awhile.
#10
11-30-08, 11:55 AM
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Take the meter and read across the pressure switch.
it should read 0volts when the blower starts, and stays 0 the whole time.
if you read 24 volts, the switch has opened, and that will shut down the flame.
let us know what switch is dropping out on you.
Flame sensor is OK, no need to worry about that.
it should read 0volts when the blower starts, and stays 0 the whole time.
if you read 24 volts, the switch has opened, and that will shut down the flame.
let us know what switch is dropping out on you.
Flame sensor is OK, no need to worry about that.
#11
11-30-08, 12:01 PM
Originally Posted by Jay11J
Need more coffee? 
#12
11-30-08, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ecman51`
The only thing slowing me down is the fact my DSL high speed is not high speed enough, on this board. 
Getting any snow your way? We got maybe an inch here.
#13
11-30-08, 01:43 PM
Originally Posted by Jay11J
Take the meter and read across the pressure switch.
it should read 0volts when the blower starts, and stays 0 the whole time.
if you read 24 volts, the switch has opened, and that will shut down the flame.
let us know what switch is dropping out on you.
Flame sensor is OK, no need to worry about that.
it should read 0volts when the blower starts, and stays 0 the whole time.
if you read 24 volts, the switch has opened, and that will shut down the flame.
let us know what switch is dropping out on you.
Flame sensor is OK, no need to worry about that.
#15
11-30-08, 03:06 PM
There are two pressure switches. Both have Honeywell logos on them.
The one w/ part #: 42-24012-07, reads about 26V AC after the unit trips off. Also, this reads about 4-5V AC when the unit is running and has flame. This one has a small vacuum line running directly to the small exhaust pump/blower that is located below in the burner chamber.
The other Part #: 42-24012-02 reads about 15V AC after the unit shuts down, and pretty much 0-5 VAC when running. This one has a small vacuum line running to a barb attached to the back wall of the chamber.
I assume here since I am reading 26V on that one pressure switch, that is what is causing me trouble? Do I need to be concerned about the other pressure switch?
Thanks!
The one w/ part #: 42-24012-07, reads about 26V AC after the unit trips off. Also, this reads about 4-5V AC when the unit is running and has flame. This one has a small vacuum line running directly to the small exhaust pump/blower that is located below in the burner chamber.
The other Part #: 42-24012-02 reads about 15V AC after the unit shuts down, and pretty much 0-5 VAC when running. This one has a small vacuum line running to a barb attached to the back wall of the chamber.
I assume here since I am reading 26V on that one pressure switch, that is what is causing me trouble? Do I need to be concerned about the other pressure switch?
Thanks!
#16
11-30-08, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by KLo827
The one w/ part #: 42-24012-07, reads about 26V AC after the unit trips off. Also, this reads about 4-5V AC when the unit is running and has flame. This one has a small vacuum line running directly to the small exhaust pump/blower that is located below in the burner chamber.
When it trips, the flame stops right away?
If yes, then
-check the hose to make sure has no cracks, and no water in them.
-Check wires to make sure it has not come undone.
-check pipes outside to make sure it's not blocked.
-
#17
11-30-08, 03:41 PM
Originally Posted by Jay11J
Is the the inducer blower staying on just as it trips on you?
When it trips, the flame stops right away?
If yes, then
-check the hose to make sure has no cracks, and no water in them.
-Check wires to make sure it has not come undone.
-check pipes outside to make sure it's not blocked.
-
When it trips, the flame stops right away?
If yes, then
-check the hose to make sure has no cracks, and no water in them.
-Check wires to make sure it has not come undone.
-check pipes outside to make sure it's not blocked.
-
The electrical leads are on the pressure switch securely.
I am now on my way outside or to the roof to locate the furnace intake and exhaust pipes to check for any obstruction.
#18
11-30-08, 03:51 PM
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if they are all clear, then note on what size the PVC pipe is, how long of a run it is between the furnace, and outside, and how many elbows.
going to have supper here in a bit. will be back in an hour so.
going to have supper here in a bit. will be back in an hour so.
#19
11-30-08, 03:58 PM
Originally Posted by Jay11J
if they are all clear, then note on what size the PVC pipe is, how long of a run it is between the furnace, and outside, and how many elbows.
The few drops of water in the hose, and water at the inlet barb for that hose has me concerned. What causes this?
#21
12-08-08, 09:31 AM
The Fix!
Thought I would follow-up here to let people know of what the final fix was here:
There is a plastic T-Pipe that comes off of the inducer motor in the burner chamber.
This pipe connects to the inducer motor, and it T's up to the exhaust PVC pipe, and the other end has some tubing that goes down the the P-Trap and ultimately to the drain. The bottom of this T-pipe (part that leads to the P-Trap) coming off the inducer motor had a dead wasp, dead spider, and some small chunks of plastic/PVC at the bottom of it.
What was happening is that since the condensation/water had no where to drain, it was backing up into the inducer motor, eventually triggering the pressure switch to cut the flames out.
Once the blockage was cleared, the furnace works normally without incident.
There is a plastic T-Pipe that comes off of the inducer motor in the burner chamber.
This pipe connects to the inducer motor, and it T's up to the exhaust PVC pipe, and the other end has some tubing that goes down the the P-Trap and ultimately to the drain. The bottom of this T-pipe (part that leads to the P-Trap) coming off the inducer motor had a dead wasp, dead spider, and some small chunks of plastic/PVC at the bottom of it.
What was happening is that since the condensation/water had no where to drain, it was backing up into the inducer motor, eventually triggering the pressure switch to cut the flames out.
Once the blockage was cleared, the furnace works normally without incident.
#23
12-31-08, 06:27 PM
Same trouble . . . repeatedly
Hi. We're having a similar issue. I have twice had a service tech here. The first time, he blew out the flex rubber tubing (which, to me, did not seem to be obstructed). The furnace lit after the panels were replaced. The temp went from 57 to 62, but shut off again within 5 minutes after the tech left.
When he returned, he used a shop vac on condensation drain lines from the pressure switch (I think that's what it's called judging from the picture in the manual) and put all doors on. Started right up and worked fine . . .until tonight (less than two weeks later).
I repeated the tech's previous steps and it started up again. What could be causing this repeated clogging? It only happens when the outside temp is below 25 degrees. We have the following:
Rheem Weatherking High Efficiency Upflow Furnace
Model NO. 90RL12EHS01
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Happy New Year!
When he returned, he used a shop vac on condensation drain lines from the pressure switch (I think that's what it's called judging from the picture in the manual) and put all doors on. Started right up and worked fine . . .until tonight (less than two weeks later).
I repeated the tech's previous steps and it started up again. What could be causing this repeated clogging? It only happens when the outside temp is below 25 degrees. We have the following:
Rheem Weatherking High Efficiency Upflow Furnace
Model NO. 90RL12EHS01
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Happy New Year!
#24
01-02-09, 10:24 AM
Sounds like what I had...
Your issue sounds like what was happening to me.
In the burn chamber there is a T-type plastic tube that comes of the inducer motor. The top of the T connects to the PVC exhaust line going to your roof. The bottom of the T has a rubber tube going down to the water/P-Trap. I had blockage in the bottom of that T, and thus the moisture/water was building up and cutting the furnace off eventually.
Trying clearing that T out. You will have to disconnect it from the motor and the Exhaust pipe.
In the burn chamber there is a T-type plastic tube that comes of the inducer motor. The top of the T connects to the PVC exhaust line going to your roof. The bottom of the T has a rubber tube going down to the water/P-Trap. I had blockage in the bottom of that T, and thus the moisture/water was building up and cutting the furnace off eventually.
Trying clearing that T out. You will have to disconnect it from the motor and the Exhaust pipe.
#25
01-04-09, 08:39 AM
Rheem Furance Problem
Hi I am new at this site. Can someone help me figure out why I have so much condensation dripping out of my exhaust pipe for my furnace and building ice outside and eventually shutting off my furnace untill I clean the outtake? Please help.
#26
01-04-09, 09:24 AM
Drain
Condensation is supposed to go the the drain... That is why I suspect you have blockage somewhere between the T Pipe, P-Trap, and drain pipe. My blockage was at bottom of t Pipe, before the P/Water trap.
#27
01-04-09, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Lats2008
Hi I am new at this site. Can someone help me figure out why I have so much condensation dripping out of my exhaust pipe for my furnace and building ice outside and eventually shutting off my furnace untill I clean the outtake? Please help.
You are going to get some dripping outside, but shouldn't be a lot to shut off the furnace.
Can you take a photo of your set up outside, and the pipe in the home to the furnace?
#28
01-04-09, 05:18 PM
Originally Posted by Jay11J
The PVC pipe going outside should be leaning towards the furnace to drain back most of the water in the PVC pipe.
You are going to get some dripping outside, but shouldn't be a lot to shut off the furnace.
Can you take a photo of your set up outside, and the pipe in the home to the furnace?
You are going to get some dripping outside, but shouldn't be a lot to shut off the furnace.
Can you take a photo of your set up outside, and the pipe in the home to the furnace?
Last edited by the_tow_guy; 01-05-09 at 05:18 PM. Reason: Email address removed
#29
01-04-09, 08:08 PM
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I sent you an e-mail to see the photo.
FYI, please remove your e-mail address on the board. Post the into in your profile if you want other members to get in touch with you.
Thanks!
FYI, please remove your e-mail address on the board. Post the into in your profile if you want other members to get in touch with you.
Thanks!
#31
01-05-09, 12:47 PM
Originally Posted by Jay11J
I sent you an e-mail to see the photo.
FYI, please remove your e-mail address on the board. Post the into in your profile if you want other members to get in touch with you.
Thanks!
FYI, please remove your e-mail address on the board. Post the into in your profile if you want other members to get in touch with you.
Thanks!
#32
01-08-09, 01:22 PM
Hi there, I am new on this blog and just wanted to mention that I had the exact same problem with water from the inducer not able to flow to the drain due to a blockage. I believe it was the P-trap that was very dirty. I actually told the technician to follow the steps above to clear the blockage. He had initially changed my thermostat, then went on to change my IFC and the problem still was there - Furnace (Rheem Corsair 90J series) shutting down after few minutes and going into a lockout mode.
Based on the steps in the fix below I was able to find water trapped in the pipes and I did a temporary fix by letting some of the water out and got the technician to clean the pipes properly. I am happy I found this blog otherwise the tech would probably have taken a few days / trials to figure it out. Thanks a lot!
Based on the steps in the fix below I was able to find water trapped in the pipes and I did a temporary fix by letting some of the water out and got the technician to clean the pipes properly. I am happy I found this blog otherwise the tech would probably have taken a few days / trials to figure it out. Thanks a lot!
#33
02-02-11, 04:23 AM
Have the same issue with the burner shutting off after a few seconds. One thing i did find is that if i turn the power off to the furnace for approx 5 min and than turn it back on the unit works fine. Was having issues again yesterday, turned it off last night, woke up this morning to 62 degree temp, after turning it back on the furnace ran for 25 min with no issues, warmed the house back up. When the furnace tried to start up again thats when the burner issue came back? Dont get it.
#34
02-02-11, 04:31 AM
Member
Originally Posted by ventdog
Have the same issue with the burner shutting off after a few seconds. One thing i did find is that if i turn the power off to the furnace for approx 5 min and than turn it back on the unit works fine. Was having issues again yesterday, turned it off last night, woke up this morning to 62 degree temp, after turning it back on the furnace ran for 25 min with no issues, warmed the house back up. When the furnace tried to start up again thats when the burner issue came back? Dont get it.
#35
11-27-11, 07:40 AM
The problem was WATER!
Thanks to all that contributed to this thread. After reading through I tried several of the recommendations. The one that finally did it was draining a considerable amount of water from the lines. Afterwards my furnace would stay lit and heat the upstairs.
This is the 2nd time I've had this problem with the upper furnace, the basement furnace has never had this issue. We've had 3 snows so far this year so I suspect the ice melting in the roof vents was causing the water which accumulated because there was a blockage. Though I never saw what blocked the tube, it just cleared when I put my screw driver into the tube.
Anyway, it's a Sunday and we've got heat again thanks to you guys.
This is the 2nd time I've had this problem with the upper furnace, the basement furnace has never had this issue. We've had 3 snows so far this year so I suspect the ice melting in the roof vents was causing the water which accumulated because there was a blockage. Though I never saw what blocked the tube, it just cleared when I put my screw driver into the tube.
Anyway, it's a Sunday and we've got heat again thanks to you guys.
#36
11-27-11, 08:16 AM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Draining the water is unlikely to solve the problem. You need to locate and remove the obstruction that is causing the water to accumulate or the condition will occur again rather rapidly when the furnace gets plugged with water again.
#37
01-05-12, 08:05 PM
flame sensor
Just wanted to thank the poster who said to check flame sensor. I had a similar issue as described here in this post and this is what I did. I cleaned igniter first and then re-tried furnace. Noticed furnace would start with panel open but an organe flashing light on the control panel. Then, the furnace cut off again after I tried to re-install lower panel. Then, I read this post and noticed I could clean flame sensor as well. I did this and the orange light on control panel stopped flashing - seems to be working great now. We'll see how it does, but think this solved the problem. I did look for condensation issues, but all fine there. Hoep this helps someone else and if anyone knows what the orange light on control panel is and what the flashing versus solid status means - I would love to know. I also have two lights to the right of the orange light and they both always stayed solid green when furnace was on.
#38
11-11-12, 07:50 AM
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Fame sensor
Similar issue here - burners would not light at all. Started my troubleshooting with the simplest step - cleaning the flame sensor. Though it didn't look like it needed cleaning, I rubbed on it for about 30 seconds with some steel wool, re-installed, and my ignition problem was fixed. Instant flameage! Thanks guys!
#39
11-11-12, 01:01 PM
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Similar issue here - burners would not light at all. Started my troubleshooting with the simplest step - cleaning the flame sensor. Though it didn't look like it needed cleaning, I rubbed on it for about 30 seconds with some steel wool, re-installed, and my ignition problem was fixed. Instant flameage! Thanks guys!
Not a good ideal to clean the sensor w/ stell wool.. It's too harsh... dollar bill does the trick. I'd plan on replacing the sensor down the road.
#40
11-11-12, 01:52 PM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
The flame sensor is just a hunk of metal. Using steel wool or fine sandpaper to clean it is fine. I often use a wire brush.
However, you are just cleaning off a surface coat of oxides or whatever. You don't need to cut into the metal to get it clean.
I would NOT replace the flame sensor.
All the flame sensor does is connect the AC voltage supplied by the circuit board to the burner flames. You can connect that wire to a screwdriver or piece of steel and it will work fine if you put it in the burner flames.
However, you are just cleaning off a surface coat of oxides or whatever. You don't need to cut into the metal to get it clean.
I would NOT replace the flame sensor.
All the flame sensor does is connect the AC voltage supplied by the circuit board to the burner flames. You can connect that wire to a screwdriver or piece of steel and it will work fine if you put it in the burner flames.
