Rheem Classic 90 Furnace - Won't Stay Lit - HELP

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Old 11-29-08, 05:55 PM
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Rheem Classic 90 Furnace - Won't Stay Lit - HELP

I have been doing some research on the net, and also here on this forum. It seems as if others have experienced the same problem, or similar, but the fixes are sometimes the same, and sometimes not. ...And I need HELP.

Here are my furnace specs:

Rheem Classic 90
Model# : RGRJ-07EYBES
Serial #: EB5D302F050302920
Mfg. Date: 01/2003

The problem is that when the thermostat calls for heat, the ignitor glows, the burners light. Sometimes they stay on for 5-10 seconds, then flame out. It repeats the process. When it does finally stay lit, things go along normal and the furnace will run, but will eventually flame out after running for 10-15 minutes. Usually before desired set temp is reached. Then the whole ignition flame out scenerio happens, then it will eventually lock itself out. Verified by single flashing green light on the board.

I have cleaned the flame sensor with steel wool. Problem still persists. I am going to order one, but can't get it shipped till Monday (This is Saturday).

I've owned this house for a year, and there were no issues last winter. I became aware recently when we were waking to a cold house, and then system was not running, when thermostat was calling for heat. Only way to reset was to turn power on and off.

I have noticed that when the top burner access panel is off/removed, in my troubleshooting attempts that this doesn't seem to happen at all. When it is running and I have flame, as soon as I put the panel on, it flames out. This may be coincidence... but is strange.

I've read about replacing pressure switches, flame sensor, replacing the whole board... now not sure what to do. But this is becoming a real headache.

I figure I will start with replacing the flame sensor, first. But any other suggestions would be appreciated. I don't see how I have a venting problem, in that nothing was wrong a year ago, and the previous owners would have gone thru this, too. I replaced the filter in the spring of 2008. I've looked at it, and it does not appear that dirty. The one I pulled six months ago was 5 times dirtier.
 
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Old 11-30-08, 08:25 AM
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Verified by single flashing green light on the board.
What code is it flashing, and the info is on the back of the blower door most of the time.
 
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Old 11-30-08, 09:03 AM
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The board has two LEDs on it. One is green and labeled "OK", and the other is orange and labeled "Flare".

The green light flashes once with a 2 sec pause. According to the code on back of panel, it means, "1 Hour Lock Out".

Also, I left the burner door off last night when I went to bed. Woke up this AM and it was in lockout, w/ same code. So, that theory of running with burner panel off may be shot, as a temporary crutch.

Thanks.
K
 
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Old 11-30-08, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by KLo827 View Post
and the other is orange and labeled "Flare".
What is this one doing while the main burners lights up? Steady, fast , or slow blink?

If it is steady, then do you have a meter to check for voltage?
 
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Old 11-30-08, 09:44 AM
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The flare light will be steady on. And I can get my hands on a volt meter.
 
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Old 11-30-08, 09:47 AM
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Then we need to take a reading on the pressure switch to see if it's dropping out on you...

However, it may be tricky to do since if this locks out once in awhile.
 
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Old 11-30-08, 10:49 AM
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Scrapped post. Thought he said blower door, not burner door. Sheesh!
 
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Old 11-30-08, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ecman51` View Post
Scrapped post. Thought he said blower door, not burner door. Sheesh!
Need more coffee?
 
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Old 11-30-08, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
Then we need to take a reading on the pressure switch to see if it's dropping out on you...

However, it may be tricky to do since if this locks out once in awhile.
Ok. Got my Volt meter... What am I looking for? I am able to locate both pressure switches, and the flame sensor.
 
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Old 11-30-08, 11:55 AM
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Take the meter and read across the pressure switch.

it should read 0volts when the blower starts, and stays 0 the whole time.

if you read 24 volts, the switch has opened, and that will shut down the flame.

let us know what switch is dropping out on you.

Flame sensor is OK, no need to worry about that.
 
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Old 11-30-08, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
Need more coffee?
Ha. My coffee does not help. It is decaf. If I drank lots of regular, I'd be even more of this keyed up person than I already am. I simply read and post too fast sometimes. The only thing slowing me down is the fact my DSL high speed is not high speed enough, on this board.
 
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Old 11-30-08, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ecman51` View Post
The only thing slowing me down is the fact my DSL high speed is not high speed enough, on this board.
Better give the DSL some coffee too!

Getting any snow your way? We got maybe an inch here.
 
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Old 11-30-08, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
Take the meter and read across the pressure switch.

it should read 0volts when the blower starts, and stays 0 the whole time.

if you read 24 volts, the switch has opened, and that will shut down the flame.

let us know what switch is dropping out on you.

Flame sensor is OK, no need to worry about that.
I assume we are talking about 24V DC?
 
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Old 11-30-08, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by KLo827 View Post
I assume we are talking about 24V DC?
No, it's 24volts AC. be sure to set your meter to AC reading.
 
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Old 11-30-08, 03:06 PM
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There are two pressure switches. Both have Honeywell logos on them.

The one w/ part #: 42-24012-07, reads about 26V AC after the unit trips off. Also, this reads about 4-5V AC when the unit is running and has flame. This one has a small vacuum line running directly to the small exhaust pump/blower that is located below in the burner chamber.

The other Part #: 42-24012-02 reads about 15V AC after the unit shuts down, and pretty much 0-5 VAC when running. This one has a small vacuum line running to a barb attached to the back wall of the chamber.

I assume here since I am reading 26V on that one pressure switch, that is what is causing me trouble? Do I need to be concerned about the other pressure switch?

Thanks!
 
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Old 11-30-08, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by KLo827 View Post
The one w/ part #: 42-24012-07, reads about 26V AC after the unit trips off. Also, this reads about 4-5V AC when the unit is running and has flame. This one has a small vacuum line running directly to the small exhaust pump/blower that is located below in the burner chamber.
Is the the inducer blower staying on just as it trips on you?

When it trips, the flame stops right away?

If yes, then
-check the hose to make sure has no cracks, and no water in them.
-Check wires to make sure it has not come undone.
-check pipes outside to make sure it's not blocked.
-
 
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Old 11-30-08, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
Is the the inducer blower staying on just as it trips on you?

When it trips, the flame stops right away?

If yes, then
-check the hose to make sure has no cracks, and no water in them.
-Check wires to make sure it has not come undone.
-check pipes outside to make sure it's not blocked.
-
Checked that hose. When I pulled it from the inducer blower, there were a few drops of water in it. I blew it out. At the barb connector of the inducer pump you could see some water/condensation at the opening where the hose attaches. I tried to blow out as much as I could there, too. What causes water/condensation there?

The electrical leads are on the pressure switch securely.

I am now on my way outside or to the roof to locate the furnace intake and exhaust pipes to check for any obstruction.
 
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Old 11-30-08, 03:51 PM
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if they are all clear, then note on what size the PVC pipe is, how long of a run it is between the furnace, and outside, and how many elbows.

going to have supper here in a bit. will be back in an hour so.
 
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Old 11-30-08, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
if they are all clear, then note on what size the PVC pipe is, how long of a run it is between the furnace, and outside, and how many elbows.
It is dark here now. Won't be able to get to the roof till tomorrow.

The few drops of water in the hose, and water at the inlet barb for that hose has me concerned. What causes this?
 
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Old 11-30-08, 05:12 PM
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You are going to have some water in the line, and that is normal, just don't want water flooded into the line.
 
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Old 12-08-08, 09:31 AM
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The Fix!

Thought I would follow-up here to let people know of what the final fix was here:

There is a plastic T-Pipe that comes off of the inducer motor in the burner chamber.

This pipe connects to the inducer motor, and it T's up to the exhaust PVC pipe, and the other end has some tubing that goes down the the P-Trap and ultimately to the drain. The bottom of this T-pipe (part that leads to the P-Trap) coming off the inducer motor had a dead wasp, dead spider, and some small chunks of plastic/PVC at the bottom of it.

What was happening is that since the condensation/water had no where to drain, it was backing up into the inducer motor, eventually triggering the pressure switch to cut the flames out.

Once the blockage was cleared, the furnace works normally without incident.
 
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Old 12-08-08, 02:38 PM
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Glad to see you got it fixed, and no new parts was needed for this.

Thanks for the update!
 
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Old 12-31-08, 06:27 PM
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Same trouble . . . repeatedly

Hi. We're having a similar issue. I have twice had a service tech here. The first time, he blew out the flex rubber tubing (which, to me, did not seem to be obstructed). The furnace lit after the panels were replaced. The temp went from 57 to 62, but shut off again within 5 minutes after the tech left.

When he returned, he used a shop vac on condensation drain lines from the pressure switch (I think that's what it's called judging from the picture in the manual) and put all doors on. Started right up and worked fine . . .until tonight (less than two weeks later).

I repeated the tech's previous steps and it started up again. What could be causing this repeated clogging? It only happens when the outside temp is below 25 degrees. We have the following:

Rheem Weatherking High Efficiency Upflow Furnace
Model NO. 90RL12EHS01

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Happy New Year!
 
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Old 01-02-09, 10:24 AM
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Sounds like what I had...

Your issue sounds like what was happening to me.
In the burn chamber there is a T-type plastic tube that comes of the inducer motor. The top of the T connects to the PVC exhaust line going to your roof. The bottom of the T has a rubber tube going down to the water/P-Trap. I had blockage in the bottom of that T, and thus the moisture/water was building up and cutting the furnace off eventually.

Trying clearing that T out. You will have to disconnect it from the motor and the Exhaust pipe.
 
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Old 01-04-09, 08:39 AM
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Rheem Furance Problem

Hi I am new at this site. Can someone help me figure out why I have so much condensation dripping out of my exhaust pipe for my furnace and building ice outside and eventually shutting off my furnace untill I clean the outtake? Please help.
 
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Old 01-04-09, 09:24 AM
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Drain

Condensation is supposed to go the the drain... That is why I suspect you have blockage somewhere between the T Pipe, P-Trap, and drain pipe. My blockage was at bottom of t Pipe, before the P/Water trap.
 
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Old 01-04-09, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Lats2008 View Post
Hi I am new at this site. Can someone help me figure out why I have so much condensation dripping out of my exhaust pipe for my furnace and building ice outside and eventually shutting off my furnace untill I clean the outtake? Please help.
The PVC pipe going outside should be leaning towards the furnace to drain back most of the water in the PVC pipe.

You are going to get some dripping outside, but shouldn't be a lot to shut off the furnace.

Can you take a photo of your set up outside, and the pipe in the home to the furnace?
 
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Old 01-04-09, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
The PVC pipe going outside should be leaning towards the furnace to drain back most of the water in the PVC pipe.

You are going to get some dripping outside, but shouldn't be a lot to shut off the furnace.

Can you take a photo of your set up outside, and the pipe in the home to the furnace?
Sure I can take a photo and send it. Can I get your email? or email me at noemailsin theforums Thanks. I am having lots of issures now with this furnace. Plus worried I have a little one
 

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Old 01-04-09, 08:08 PM
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I sent you an e-mail to see the photo.

FYI, please remove your e-mail address on the board. Post the into in your profile if you want other members to get in touch with you.

Thanks!
 
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Old 01-05-09, 12:36 PM
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ok thanks for the information I sent you the pics
 
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Old 01-05-09, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
I sent you an e-mail to see the photo.

FYI, please remove your e-mail address on the board. Post the into in your profile if you want other members to get in touch with you.

Thanks!
How do I remove it? my email address in the post
 
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Old 01-08-09, 01:22 PM
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Hi there, I am new on this blog and just wanted to mention that I had the exact same problem with water from the inducer not able to flow to the drain due to a blockage. I believe it was the P-trap that was very dirty. I actually told the technician to follow the steps above to clear the blockage. He had initially changed my thermostat, then went on to change my IFC and the problem still was there - Furnace (Rheem Corsair 90J series) shutting down after few minutes and going into a lockout mode.

Based on the steps in the fix below I was able to find water trapped in the pipes and I did a temporary fix by letting some of the water out and got the technician to clean the pipes properly. I am happy I found this blog otherwise the tech would probably have taken a few days / trials to figure it out. Thanks a lot!
 
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Old 02-02-11, 04:23 AM
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Have the same issue with the burner shutting off after a few seconds. One thing i did find is that if i turn the power off to the furnace for approx 5 min and than turn it back on the unit works fine. Was having issues again yesterday, turned it off last night, woke up this morning to 62 degree temp, after turning it back on the furnace ran for 25 min with no issues, warmed the house back up. When the furnace tried to start up again thats when the burner issue came back? Dont get it.
 
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Old 02-02-11, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ventdog View Post
Have the same issue with the burner shutting off after a few seconds. One thing i did find is that if i turn the power off to the furnace for approx 5 min and than turn it back on the unit works fine. Was having issues again yesterday, turned it off last night, woke up this morning to 62 degree temp, after turning it back on the furnace ran for 25 min with no issues, warmed the house back up. When the furnace tried to start up again thats when the burner issue came back? Dont get it.
clean the flame sensor
 
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Old 11-27-11, 07:40 AM
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The problem was WATER!

Thanks to all that contributed to this thread. After reading through I tried several of the recommendations. The one that finally did it was draining a considerable amount of water from the lines. Afterwards my furnace would stay lit and heat the upstairs.

This is the 2nd time I've had this problem with the upper furnace, the basement furnace has never had this issue. We've had 3 snows so far this year so I suspect the ice melting in the roof vents was causing the water which accumulated because there was a blockage. Though I never saw what blocked the tube, it just cleared when I put my screw driver into the tube.

Anyway, it's a Sunday and we've got heat again thanks to you guys.
 
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Old 11-27-11, 08:16 AM
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Draining the water is unlikely to solve the problem. You need to locate and remove the obstruction that is causing the water to accumulate or the condition will occur again rather rapidly when the furnace gets plugged with water again.
 
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Old 01-05-12, 08:05 PM
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Thumbs up flame sensor

Just wanted to thank the poster who said to check flame sensor. I had a similar issue as described here in this post and this is what I did. I cleaned igniter first and then re-tried furnace. Noticed furnace would start with panel open but an organe flashing light on the control panel. Then, the furnace cut off again after I tried to re-install lower panel. Then, I read this post and noticed I could clean flame sensor as well. I did this and the orange light on control panel stopped flashing - seems to be working great now. We'll see how it does, but think this solved the problem. I did look for condensation issues, but all fine there. Hoep this helps someone else and if anyone knows what the orange light on control panel is and what the flashing versus solid status means - I would love to know. I also have two lights to the right of the orange light and they both always stayed solid green when furnace was on.
 
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Old 11-11-12, 07:50 AM
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Fame sensor

Similar issue here - burners would not light at all. Started my troubleshooting with the simplest step - cleaning the flame sensor. Though it didn't look like it needed cleaning, I rubbed on it for about 30 seconds with some steel wool, re-installed, and my ignition problem was fixed. Instant flameage! Thanks guys!
 
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Old 11-11-12, 01:01 PM
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Similar issue here - burners would not light at all. Started my troubleshooting with the simplest step - cleaning the flame sensor. Though it didn't look like it needed cleaning, I rubbed on it for about 30 seconds with some steel wool, re-installed, and my ignition problem was fixed. Instant flameage! Thanks guys!


Not a good ideal to clean the sensor w/ stell wool.. It's too harsh... dollar bill does the trick. I'd plan on replacing the sensor down the road.
 
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Old 11-11-12, 01:52 PM
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The flame sensor is just a hunk of metal. Using steel wool or fine sandpaper to clean it is fine. I often use a wire brush.


However, you are just cleaning off a surface coat of oxides or whatever. You don't need to cut into the metal to get it clean.

I would NOT replace the flame sensor.

All the flame sensor does is connect the AC voltage supplied by the circuit board to the burner flames. You can connect that wire to a screwdriver or piece of steel and it will work fine if you put it in the burner flames.
 
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