Carrier Weathermaker 8000 not burning hot enough


  #1  
Old 12-16-08, 04:24 AM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Carrier Weathermaker 8000 not burning hot enough

I have a Carrier weathermaker 8000 that stopped working last March (2008) and I had someone come look at it and they replaced the igniter and charged me a lot of money - I didn't use it much after that but it just got really cold for this winter and my furnace doesn't seem to be burning hot enough. It fires up and runs for 1 to 2 minutes and then starts all over again doing this constantly but the temperature can never get about 66 to 68 degrees. My family is freezing and I would like to fix this myself if possible because most everyone I call just wants to replace the furnace. I tried replacing the thermostat already to see if that was the problem, but no change. The air coming out is warm to hot, but I remember it getting much hotter before and running much longer before it turned off. Any suggestions would be most appreciated. Thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 12-16-08, 06:15 AM
M
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: N. GA
Posts: 91
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Check the position of the flame sensor, if the flame is not directly on the sensor it will short cycle.
 
  #3  
Old 12-16-08, 07:49 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Got this same issue/furnace. Started at 3 in the morning. lol

Error code 31. Any help appreciated.
 
  #4  
Old 12-16-08, 09:53 AM
M
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: N. GA
Posts: 91
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
  #5  
Old 12-16-08, 10:13 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Yikes! That's an RTU.
 
  #6  
Old 12-16-08, 10:31 AM
M
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: N. GA
Posts: 91
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Yes it is. Do you have a model # ? if I have that I can get you the right manual.
 
  #7  
Old 12-16-08, 08:30 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I checked the flame sensor and it was sticking straight up - I moved it down and directly in the line of the flame, but the flame still shuts off after about 2.5 minutes. The code on the led is a 33 which on the code sheet says "Limit or flame roll-out switch is open - if triggered for more than 3 minutes code changes to a 13 (which is limit or flame roll-out switch lockout). It says to check for the following:
1. dirty filter or restricted duct system - checked, no problems.
2. Defective blower motor or capacitor - blower seems to run fine - not sure what the capacitor is.
3. Loose blower wheel - it feels solid to me.
4. Lower inducer voltage - how do I check this?
5. Inadequate combustion air supply (flame roll out switch or fuse link open). How do I check this?
6. Defective switch or connections? Which switch and how do I check it?
7. Open flame roll out switch, or fuse link. Manual reset or replace. How do I do a manual reset?
Thanks for your help.
 
  #8  
Old 12-17-08, 08:00 AM
M
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: N. GA
Posts: 91
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by supert170
I checked the flame sensor and it was sticking straight up - I moved it down and directly in the line of the flame, but the flame still shuts off after about 2.5 minutes. The code on the led is a 33 which on the code sheet says "Limit or flame roll-out switch is open - if triggered for more than 3 minutes code changes to a 13 (which is limit or flame roll-out switch lockout). It says to check for the following:
1. dirty filter or restricted duct system - checked, no problems.
2. Defective blower motor or capacitor - blower seems to run fine - not sure what the capacitor is.
3. Loose blower wheel - it feels solid to me.
4. Lower inducer voltage - how do I check this?
5. Inadequate combustion air supply (flame roll out switch or fuse link open). How do I check this?
6. Defective switch or connections? Which switch and how do I check it?
7. Open flame roll out switch, or fuse link. Manual reset or replace. How do I do a manual reset?
Thanks for your help.
OK Lets start with the flame rollout and switch. It is a limit switch, and I take it you do not know how to ID this. On top of the burner assembly you will see a small disc shaped limit switch about the size of a dime, it has 2 wires commin off of it.

There maybe a little red button on top of it, press it to reset. If it does not have a button it has to cool down for a reset, also if it has been doing this a few time the contact could be worn out and it will open prematurly. If this is the case just unplug it and take it with you, I am not sure if theHome depot, Lowes or Ace, carry these, however I would check there around the Plumbing HVAC area. It's OK to ask the employee, hold up the limit and say "I need one of these."

IF the limit or flame roll out switch is not bad, Check the combustion air. This is where I will need some more info. Is the unit in an attic, basement or closet? Where ever it is if you can open a window close to the unit, if it runs you need to introduce more combustion air.

Check these first and report back.
 
  #9  
Old 12-17-08, 08:35 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Mine is just split system/upflow furnace. Not sure exact model #, but I'm pretty sure it says Weathermaker 8000 on it. Approx. 8 years old.

We replaced the pressure switch on it last night. So far so good.
 
  #10  
Old 12-17-08, 09:16 AM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Is there a way to post pictures on here? I have some pics of the furnace.

The furnace is in a basement that is well ventilated - full access to the rest of the house, no doors.

The flame roll out switch has no buttons on it - how does it come off?

Are the flame roll out switch and limit switch the same thing?

Thanks.
 
  #11  
Old 12-17-08, 09:40 AM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I uploaded a picture to this location if you need it:
Furnace
 
  #12  
Old 12-17-08, 10:19 AM
M
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: N. GA
Posts: 91
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Send me a privet message and I'll give you my email address and you can send pics there,

Yes a flame roll out is the same as a limit only the rollout is at the burner section
 
  #13  
Old 12-17-08, 10:53 AM
M
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: N. GA
Posts: 91
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by supert170
I uploaded a picture to this location if you need it:
Furnace
OK I see the flame roll out you ID that is correct however on the oposite side it looks like another one. If you can zoom in a little more I can ID more limits for you and also look at the tube that comes from the draft inducer motor to the pressure switch.
 
  #14  
Old 12-17-08, 10:57 AM
M
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: N. GA
Posts: 91
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by brett
Mine is just split system/upflow furnace. Not sure exact model #, but I'm pretty sure it says Weathermaker 8000 on it. Approx. 8 years old.

We replaced the pressure switch on it last night. So far so good.
Yours was a pressure problem, replacing the switch should cure that problem.
 
  #15  
Old 12-17-08, 11:11 AM
M
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: N. GA
Posts: 91
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by supert170
I uploaded a picture to this location if you need it:
Furnace
I figured out how to zoom on this. The white wire at the bottom, it goes to the flame sensor, check connection. I saw 2 more limits besides the 2 in the pressure switch. There is a main limit (black rectangle plate) and one on top of the draft induction motor, that one has a red button on it.

The main, do not worry about that one it is not the problem.
 
  #16  
Old 12-17-08, 03:39 PM
E
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,826
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Where the two orange wires go to above the inducer, is likely a spill switch, and I see one of those pin-type reset buttons in between the terminals.
 
  #17  
Old 12-21-08, 07:17 PM
T
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: ohio
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Unhappy

Originally Posted by supert170
I have a Carrier weathermaker 8000 that stopped working last March (2008) and I had someone come look at it and they replaced the igniter and charged me a lot of money - I didn't use it much after that but it just got really cold for this winter and my furnace doesn't seem to be burning hot enough. It fires up and runs for 1 to 2 minutes and then starts all over again doing this constantly but the temperature can never get about 66 to 68 degrees. My family is freezing and I would like to fix this myself if possible because most everyone I call just wants to replace the furnace. I tried replacing the thermostat already to see if that was the problem, but no change. The air coming out is warm to hot, but I remember it getting much hotter before and running much longer before it turned off. Any suggestions would be most appreciated. Thanks.
Iam having the very same issue have replaced pressure switch all 3 limts running without filter will burn for aprox 2 min then start again currently 2 degress out holding at 61 set on 70 WM8000 about 15 years old 58WAV also replaced the board getting a 33 code daughter works for a HVAC supplier so parts are cheap just don't know which way to go now
 
  #18  
Old 12-22-08, 09:51 AM
Crocostimpy's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 200
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I had a problem very similar to this just yesterday. My furnace is a two-stage unit (Carrier Infinity), and the second stage wouldn't come on. Long story short, it turned out that the trap in the condensate tubing was clogged. The high-pressure switch for the blower wouldn't trip and so the blower never went to the high speed. This is what the heating guy told me after he cleaned it out and it started working correctly. The house was staying at 57 degrees so it wasn't too bad, but we were glad when it was fixed.
 
  #19  
Old 12-22-08, 01:18 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Still not working

Ok - talked to a local heating and cooling guy that sells parts, he had me try bypassing all the sensors one by one until the furnace started working by pulling the wires off and connecting them directly together. Of course the last one I tried was the sensor on the back wall that senses the temperature inside the heating chamber. The part that was in there was a generic sensor that had been modified and he sold me the "official" carrier sensor that was for my furnace. I installed it last Saturday and it didn't change a thing - it kept re-cycling the system about every 3 to 4 minutes, so I pulled the wires back off and connected them directly and I am bypassing the sensor again and it works fine. My questions now are: What else could it be? What are the dangers of leaving this one sensor bypassed. I am curious about the last comment about the "condensation tubing" - how do I find and check this? Also - I don't think mine is a two stage unit, but how do I tell? Thanks.
 
  #20  
Old 12-22-08, 01:40 PM
Skip4661's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 255
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by supert170
Ok - talked to a local heating and cooling guy that sells parts, he had me try bypassing all the sensors one by one until the furnace started working by pulling the wires off and connecting them directly together. Of course the last one I tried was the sensor on the back wall that senses the temperature inside the heating chamber. The part that was in there was a generic sensor that had been modified and he sold me the "official" carrier sensor that was for my furnace. I installed it last Saturday and it didn't change a thing - it kept re-cycling the system about every 3 to 4 minutes, so I pulled the wires back off and connected them directly and I am bypassing the sensor again and it works fine. My questions now are: What else could it be? What are the dangers of leaving this one sensor bypassed. I am curious about the last comment about the "condensation tubing" - how do I find and check this? Also - I don't think mine is a two stage unit, but how do I tell? Thanks.
Do not bypass this switch it is a high limit switch designed to keep your furnace from overheating and burning up. If you have a cooling coil check it to see if it is dirty. This will cause the limit to trip.
As far as the condensate tubing goes, standard efficiency furnaces don't require them.
 

Last edited by Skip4661; 12-22-08 at 01:43 PM. Reason: additional info
  #21  
Old 12-22-08, 04:02 PM
E
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,826
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
supert,

You conclusively fix the problem everytime, by bypassing? Ruling out one shot test coincidence?

Then why can't you test which bypassed switch is opening on you?
 
  #22  
Old 12-22-08, 04:54 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
ecman51 - I am not sure what you are asking here - can you please explain? As explained in my previous posts the high limit switch is definitely the problem - because the furnace works perfectly when I bypass it and it is the only one I am bypassing - I reconnected all the others after testing them one by one. I have replaced the high limit switch with a brand new one and it still cycles every 3 to 4 minutes unless I bypass it.

skip4661 - I will check the cooling coils tonight and see if they need to be cleaned. Thanks.
 
  #23  
Old 12-26-08, 12:02 PM
T
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: ohio
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
[QUOTE=supert170;1487315]ecman51 - I am not sure what you are asking here - can you please explain? As explained in my previous posts the high limit switch is definitely the problem - because the furnace works perfectly when I bypass it and it is the only one I am bypassing - I reconnected all the others after testing them one by one. I have replaced the high limit switch with a brand new one and it still cycles every 3 to 4 minutes unless I bypass it.

this is the same thing i had to do to get mine up and running bypassing the high limit sensor and all is well. as stated all 3 sensors replaced pressure switch replaced main board replaced when hooked up correctly 33 code cycles every 3-5 mins bypassed runs fine no codes showing
 
  #24  
Old 03-04-10, 08:00 AM
E
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Do you have Ultasonic Humidifiers?

I had exactly same symptoms. It turns out that the mineral deposit from our ultrasonic humidifiers in the house clogged the air filter and caused overheating of the furnace. It was nearly imposible to see the white mineral deposit on the white filter paper, but it was there.
 
  #25  
Old 03-04-10, 09:15 AM
SeattlePioneer's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 4,469
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Bypassing a high limit control for other than test purposes is a very bad, and dangerous, practice.


What you are telling us is that the furnace is definitely overheating, and you are ignoring the problem by bypassing the limit, which is inconveniently preventing the furnace from a meltdown and starting a fire.

You need to identify what is restricting the air flow (very likely) or otherwise causing the problem.


My most graphic experience was with an improperly wired limit switch: when I went down to the basement to check out the furnace, the sides of the furnace were a dull orange in color because of the excessive heat.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: