york furnace goes off

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Old 12-16-08, 06:09 PM
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york furnace goes off

Hi

I have 9 year old York furnace, recently ignitor, pressure switch, thermostat been changed
Now I have new problem,
I have to reset power to furnace every time to get furnace going
pressure switch goes to lockout cycle mode until I reset the power to furnace by turning off and on the power switch furnace will work fine until the thermostat reaches limit and furnace goes off, and most of time furnace never heat up and blower is running
until i go up again and reset the power
pressure switch is generic brand maybe the problem?
what else cause the pressure switch to goes to lockout mode?

Help please
Thanks
Gt
 
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Old 12-17-08, 05:33 PM
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You use the term "locking out" for the pressure switch - but that is term used really for the control board or module when they shut down and no longer allow the ignition sequence to continue any more. Most furnaces will allow, after an initial ignition failure, a couple more retries. And then if it still cannot fire up, it shuts down into lockout mode.

How do you know the pressure switch is the cause/ not working, specifically? Have you tested it when running the furnace, to see if you have power into the pressure switch, but either no power after the wire leaves the pressure switch? Or - is there initally power in the wire leading into and out of the pressure switch, but then the power is lost to either both or the outgoing wire?

Need to know if this is really it so we do not waste words for nothing.
 
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Old 12-17-08, 08:31 PM
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thanks for reply

Well I do not know if the pressure switch is the problem
How ever this is new pressure switch
The reason I said pressure switch lockout
Because I get 6 red flashing LED which instruction on furnace tells me
Pressure switch lockout cycle

By turning off the power I am resetting controller board to start the cycle again
And I have to do this 3 times for furnace to start working
I only tested pressure switch while furnace was working I get about 25v
Should it have power when the furnace is not working?
 
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Old 12-18-08, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by gt555 View Post
I only tested pressure switch while furnace was working I get about 25v
Should it have power when the furnace is not working?
When the furnace is simply on = no. But yes, if the furnace is trying to run on call for heat.

You should at least be getting power into the pressure switch. Whether or not you get power OUT of the pressure switch depends on not only if the pressure switch is good, but if there is a vacuum being made within the furnace. If not, you could have different reasons why it is not, such as a plugged up hole where vacuum tube comes out of the inducer, or clogged intake or exhaust pipes, or clogged up heat exchanger, or perhaps even a heat exchanger with cracks/ holes, or backed up condensate water into the secondary exchanger.
 
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Old 12-18-08, 08:03 PM
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I get 25 v from pressure switch when is running
i also put new tube in pressure switch.

What I do not understand is why is working in third attempt
Until heat reaches the thermostat setting
I will check everything on weekend
Thanks
 
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Old 12-19-08, 04:35 PM
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You have a hot surface ignitor that glows?

How often does this occur that it locks out? Testing has to be done when furnace does not fire up. If the pressure switch shows that current flows though it, but then the furnace runs(fires up and stays burning), then the test at that time means nothing. We can only learn stuff when the furnace does not continue to run with fire. Obviously if it runs with fire, then at that moment, all wiring and all functions are working, and nothing can be gleaned by testing.

As far as doing things that are sort of maintenance items that COULD cause your problem: You could remove the flame sensor and polish up the metal probe. You could try to blow out the condensate drain tube on through and including the trap for it. And then also blow back up the line INTO the furnace. Make sure filter is clean. Make sure furnace does not high limit. Make sure all registers are open in house and cold air returns not blocked. Remove the smaller rubber vacuum tube that goes to the pressure switch and disconnect the end that may be pluggd into the inducer fan and ream out that hole and blow through the tube. Make sure your vent lines for the furnace are clear, outside.
 
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Old 12-19-08, 08:25 PM
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Thank for reply again

I happens every day depending on weather
When I come home from work if weather outside is cold so I start furnace by resetting the controller board

1-at beginning ignitor was not glowing, so changed that
2-then pressure switch start acting up so I changed that also
3-i also change small tube goes to pressure switch
4-flame sensor has been removed and cleaned
5-thermostat has been changed
6- Filter is clean

Make sure furnace does not high limit.
Sorry I do not understand this one

I will check for rest this weekend I work late by time I come home is too dark
Thank again
 
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Old 12-21-08, 07:45 AM
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HI ecman51

i checked , everything looks new and clean
i also removed motor and insert small pin into hose connector to make sure is open

today is about 20 degree here for some reason it happens more often when is too cold, 6 times to reset the circuit board
works for 10,15 second then gas cuts off
only thing i noticed is when happens no voltage at pressure switch and 6 flashing led cod
up to this point i spent few hundred dollar on parts and repair man service still not working correctly
is the gas valve or controller board could be the problem?
thanks
 
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Old 12-22-08, 09:33 PM
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Hi GT555,

it seems that I got the same problem. My model is not the exact the same but it's of York as well. Recently every once a while, gas cut off. The red LED flashes 6 times. Flashes codes are same 6 flashes=pressure switch cycle lockout. 3 flashes=pressure switch failed to close.

After a power reset, it can start work most of times. For a normal working startup, the sequence is like the following:
1. 2 clicks
2. inducer blows
3. ignitor lights up
4. gas blows and flames light up
5. ignitor off, flames stay
6. after 20-30 seconds so, 2 clicks
7 flames continue

There are cases, it can not start work right. In such cases, after 5, flames stay for about 10 seconds, then gas cut off. It then tries start for a couple of times, it flashes 3 times, for a short period of time.

If it starts OK, it can stay for a day so, then next I noticed it stopped, I saw the 6 flashes.

Have you found the cause?

Max
 
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Old 12-23-08, 02:22 PM
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If you still have power to the incoming wire to the pressure switch, but lose it on the outgoing wire when the flame shuts off, then you are have a problem with the pressure switch itself or the problem is related to the lack of proper drafting through the furnace.

Causes: Plugged up vacuum tube hole where it orignates from, before it goes to the pressure switch. Or if the bigger diameter condensate line system is backed up into the secondary heat exchanger. Or a weak pressure switch. Or the vacuum line is not on the nipples very good or bad tubing. Or problem with the furnace venting.

Let us know whether or not what I said in first sentence happens when it goes out. You must be ready to test this during the moment of shutdown.
 
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Old 12-23-08, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ecman51` View Post
If you still have power to the incoming wire to the pressure switch, but lose it on the outgoing wire when the flame shuts off, then you are have a problem with the pressure switch itself or the problem is related to the lack of proper drafting through the furnace.
.
Can you clarify it? What kind of voltage should I observe on these wire?

Also I noticed that it has less chance to happen when it gets warmer. It was warmer yesterday and today, it has not happen for over 24 hours.

Thanks in advance,
 
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Old 12-24-08, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by max8y View Post
Can you clarify it? What kind of voltage should I observe on these wire?

Also I noticed that it has less chance to happen when it gets warmer. It was warmer yesterday and today, it has not happen for over 24 hours.

Thanks in advance,
24 volts from one wire to the metal of the furnace.

Hopefully you can catch it in the act. If you do, do not reset the furnace, yet. Test first.
 
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Old 01-05-09, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ecman51` View Post
24 volts from one wire to the metal of the furnace.

Hopefully you can catch it in the act. If you do, do not reset the furnace, yet. Test first.
Hi it happened again yesterdy. But when I tried to measure it, I suspected I had accidently jumpped the two ends on the pressure switch,as they are very close. Furnace started to working after it. I do not know how he switch works. Does it can pinpoint something in the pressure switch?

Thanks in advance,

Max
 
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Old 01-05-09, 12:38 PM
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I would say you have a problem either with the inducer motor or fan, the venting system or the heat exchanger is plugged up in some fashion.

Is this a condensing furnace with white PVC for vent pipe, or does it use metal vent pipe? A condensing furnace is susceptible to water traps forming in the lines, water droplets freezing up and impairing air flow or ice accumulations restricting the vent outdoors in cold weather.

So-- is this a condensing furnace and if so has the weather been unusually cold or below freezing during this spate of trouble?


I'd also take the inducer motor assebly out of the furnace and inspect it's operation carefully. Does it start reliably and appear to come up to speed easily? Does the fan turn freely when you push it? Are the fan blades free of debris and corrosion and intact?

Is there any sign of corrosion or debris when you look through the hole for the inducer motor? Is the heat exchanger free of standing water in the vicinity of where the inducer motor fits?


With a condensing motor, the whle system in the furnace and vent needs to be inspected for water accumulations that may be plugging the system.
 
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Old 01-05-09, 12:45 PM
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Perhaps it's worth noting that the correct way to diagnose this kind of proble is with a manometer that measures air pressures on the order of a half inch water column.

That allows you to determine whether the furnace is the problem or the pressure switch is bad.

For an honest and competent repairman, guessing about such things or replacing pressure switches because they might be the problem is a waste of time and money and bad form.
 
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Old 02-02-09, 06:24 PM
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max

Originally Posted by max8y View Post
Hi GT555,

it seems that I got the same problem. My model is not the exact the same but it's of York as well. Recently every once a while, gas cut off. The red LED flashes 6 times. Flashes codes are same 6 flashes=pressure switch cycle lockout. 3 flashes=pressure switch failed to close.

After a power reset, it can start work most of times. For a normal working startup, the sequence is like the following:
1. 2 clicks
2. inducer blows
3. ignitor lights up
4. gas blows and flames light up
5. ignitor off, flames stay
6. after 20-30 seconds so, 2 clicks
7 flames continue

There are cases, it can not start work right. In such cases, after 5, flames stay for about 10 seconds, then gas cut off. It then tries start for a couple of times, it flashes 3 times, for a short period of time.

If it starts OK, it can stay for a day so, then next I noticed it stopped, I saw the 6 flashes.

Have you found the cause?

Max
Hi max
i was out country for 35 days just came back
mine still same
i did not try to fix anything ever since i came back
well when works for whole day then does not work anymore
because goes to shut off mode so need to use breaker switch to reset it or on off switch
more likely the problem caused by cold solder joint on the circuit board because it happens lot more when is cold outside
i probably going to change circuit board
but i am waiting for price break
did you get yours fixed?
jim
 
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