Set thermostat to 60 and room temp is 70?

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Old 12-21-08, 07:03 PM
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Set thermostat to 60 and room temp is 70?

I have oil baseboard heat and when I set the thermostat to 60 the room temperature ends up at 70 to 75. Tried setting the thermostat and no good. I just bought the house and the previous owners said they used to set it at 60 for a 70 degree temp. But if it's set to 65 should read 65. What can I check to correct this issue? Now the upstairs also has it's own thermostat and seems to work fine, but then again is it because the heat from downstairs is going up? Already did replace the thermostat and acts the same way.
 
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Old 12-21-08, 07:20 PM
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If its a mercury thermostat it may be out of level. If there is a hole in the wall behind the thermostat it could be reading drafts in the wall. But it is probably a zone valve sticking partially open causing the overheat.
 

Last edited by Skip4661; 12-21-08 at 07:22 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 12-21-08, 07:30 PM
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Replaced the merc with one without merc. It kicks on about every 10 minutes. New to this,,,,,,,so where would the zone valve be located and what's involved in replacing it?
 
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Old 12-21-08, 07:34 PM
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Does your system have zone valves. Should be one for each thermostat. If so what brand are they?
 
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Old 12-22-08, 04:59 PM
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The zone valves both are Taco. They look new, like right out of the box. I was told today that it's my aquastat. What's that and what does it look like? Have the stat set to 50 and it's 78 in here now.
 
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Old 12-22-08, 05:40 PM
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I believe I found the problem. We just moved in a week ago and the woman thought the hot water temp was too cold so she thought she adjusted it. Well there's a Honeywell limiter swiotch and the front of the furnace. Well she removed the cover and moved both dials to 180 (they were at 150) thinking it was to make the water hotter. Since then we had a problem What is the Honeywell switch for and what should it be adjusted at? I returned them both (high and low) to 150 and seems to be better but wanted to make sure it's right.
 
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Old 12-22-08, 06:33 PM
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The aquastat is what cycles the burner off and on. The low temp should be set at 150 the high temp 180. I would still say its a zone stuck valve open. I'm not too familiar with Taco zone valves but they should have a way to lock them in the open position manually. I would check that valve and make sure it is not locked open.
 
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Old 12-22-08, 06:38 PM
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sounds like a hi/lo temperature controller give us some model numbers off the actual control.for now the HI is definitly the temperature the burner shuts off when the water within the boiler reaches that setting.180F-190F this will give you a better temperature on the baseboards and satisfy that stat closer to the setpoint.
 
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Old 12-22-08, 07:01 PM
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Best I can tell is it's a Honetwell L8124C1102. It has a low setting, a high setting and another one marked diff with numbers 10-15-20-25 What's the diff for?
 
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Old 12-22-08, 08:13 PM
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check the subbase for a draft coming from the wall where the wires come into it.operating paper work on that control....read up here on those control settings page 7 somebody might fine tune the expaination for you. http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...it/95-6571.pdf
 
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Old 12-23-08, 02:17 PM
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Set the Honeywell and everything worked great all night til about 12 noon today. Started right back to the same problem. Now I'm stumped.
 
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Old 12-23-08, 07:40 PM
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The thermostat is set to 50 and the temp in the house is still 75. This is killing us.
 
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Old 12-23-08, 08:32 PM
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There's a thermostat for first floor and another one for the second floor. They are wired into 2 zone valves. How exactly should they be wired?
 
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Old 12-24-08, 07:47 AM
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each stat controls one zone valve and in tern the zone valve calls the circulator and boiler to run(thru that unit mounted controller with the 3 settings).if the stat is calling there should be no resistance on the push bar on that zone valve (because it is motorized open with 24Vs and warm)if the stat isn't calling that push bar should have resistance as you push it with your index finger(your driving the valve manually).if you drop both zone stats to 50F and the boiler is running with or with out the circulator the zone valves are mis-wired they should be opening the boiler temperature control.try that stat and manual bar test first to verify they are controlling the valves.
 
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Old 12-24-08, 08:24 AM
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On the Taco zone valves, are you talking about the bar on the outside of the valve when pushed down it goes to the open position? Right now the bar is all the way up. If there's resistance, will it still move or be locked in that position? If wired wrong,,,,,,where can I find a scehmatic for wiring the 2 zone valves to 2 separate stats? I could just disconnect all wires and start over. I did see they have the 2 zone valves wired together as in wires going from one to the other.
 
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Old 12-24-08, 09:19 AM
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right...when you push the bar if there is resistance the stat isn't calling......if you feel in freely move to the opposite side your stat is calling.there should be a little drop at the end of that sliding of the manual bar you can lock the zone valve open.the wires going in between the 2 zone valves are the boiler/circ call to heat and the 24V from the one unit transformer to power the valves.with the stats set to 50F you can control the zones(down at the boiler) by moving these bars.the boiler and circ should start when you go to the full manual position(do one at a time).....then go up into the space and see which is heating what floor and, mark the stat and the zone motor or pipe not the covers.the only way the boiler/circ will run is if the zone valve goes to full open and the end switch closes to call that honeywell controller into play.
 
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Old 12-24-08, 02:35 PM
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Okay, I did just as you said. Both valves moved rather hard but I got em to move. Moved the 1st floor lever and furnace kicked on and had heat to first floor. Moved lever on the second valve (which was hard) and furnace didn't kick on til about 2 minutes. Finally it did and had heat to the second floor. Upon finding this out the woman said the second floor heaters never got hot. So I never had heat to the second floor. Now should I touch the upstairs wires together to see if the furnace kicks on? Maybe a bad stat? I'll also trace the wires from the furnace to make sure they match up to the right zone valve. Your a pile of help and learning experience. Also if the4 upstairs stat wasn't working would it make the downstairs work harder to supply heat to the second, therefore overheating the first?
 
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Old 12-25-08, 08:54 AM
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I wasn't getting any heat to the upstairs and changed the stat. Now I have heat there. But I have the downstairs stat set to 55 and it's 80 now. I'm baffled.
 
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Old 12-25-08, 11:03 AM
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What is the boiler doing when downstairs temp goes up to 80? - running with fire? Is either stat still calling for heat? Is any circulator motor running even if say neither stat is on right now?
 
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Old 12-25-08, 11:57 AM
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Yes the boiler is running with fire when the stat are set to 60. The pump,,,,,I can't tell if it's running or not. Unless it's awful quiet. Now last night thru the night it worked fine. It's intermittent. Most of the time though hot. When should the pump run? Only when stats call for heat? I replaced both stats, tested the zone valves manually (okay as in previous post) Set the aqua valve to 150 low and 180 high, installed insullation to back of downstairs stat. I did notice that when the furnace shuts down I hear a hissing noise from the back for about 1 1/2 minutes then it stops. I'll keep checking this post from time to time as I need it fixed and I'm getting alot of help with this. We'll get it.
 
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Old 12-25-08, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Bearcamp View Post
Yes the boiler is running with fire when the stat are set to 60. The pump,,,,,I can't tell if it's running or not. Unless it's awful quiet. Now last night thru the night it worked fine. It's intermittent. Most of the time though hot. When should the pump run? Only when stats call for heat? I replaced both stats, tested the zone valves manually (okay as in previous post) Set the aqua valve to 150 low and 180 high, installed insullation to back of downstairs stat. I did notice that when the furnace shuts down I hear a hissing noise from the back for about 1 1/2 minutes then it stops. I'll keep checking this post from time to time as I need it fixed and I'm getting alot of help with this. We'll get it.
So either the stat is malfunctioning or some relay is stuck that converrts the 24 volt signal to the 120 current to run stuff. You can test to see if the 24 volts from the stat is shutting off or not.

The pumps can be pretty quiet (and can be hard to hear over the roar of the burner), and some have the motor enclosed totally in the casing so you can't see it turn. Others you can see a shaft spin or some other part of the motor. If the boiler is running with flame and the house is getting heated when the stat should be off, I will presume the circulator also is going.

The pump (circulator) should pretty much run only when call for heat. Some may employ some relay that may delay the circulator for a short bit. But the circulator cannot just keep running or else the 150-180 degree water in the boiler would just keep heating up the house beyond your intended setting. So based on that, yes, it must come to a stop.

Hissing noise? But no water spillage you can see from say the relief valve? What does your boiler pressure wind up reading when it gets up to the 180 degree set point? Maybe it is from the vent that can let out air? See if you can't see where hiss comes from? If you cannot find, possible I suppose that heat exchanger in boiler, where water is, has crack, and opens up with real high heat, and is dribbling water onto the hot inside of the boiler where the fire is, and steaming off (like the guy in the movie 'Home Alone', when he quenched his hot hand in the snow) and never shows up on the floor?
 
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Old 12-25-08, 12:24 PM
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HOw do you go about testing for 24 volts at the stats?
 
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Old 12-25-08, 12:39 PM
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You could disconnect the wires at the stat to see if that doesn't instantly make it shut off. If it doesn't, you can conclusively rule out the stat.

Or you could not undo anything, by going to boiler and looking at where the wire that comes FROM the stat goes to. It is likely white. Then test from that white wire, with a volt meter set to AC current, to metal common ground with boiler, and see if it still says 24 volts even if the stat is turned down. (It should NOT say 24 volts then.) To be sure you are at the right spot down there, you should see the red and white stat wire together in the same sheathing. The red wire will be coming from it's power source at the boiler controls/transformer, heading to the stat, and will always read 24 volts to ground, either with stat turned up or down. But the white one should only read 24 volts to common ground, only if the stat is allowing the volts through it. Or - you could just as easily disconnect that white wire from it's terminal down there, wherever it is connected to where it comes back from the stat, and see if the boiler fire instantly goes off.
 
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Old 12-25-08, 03:02 PM
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EC, Taco zone valves can take up to 3 minutes to respond. Disconnecting the stat wires usually will not result in instant shut down.
 
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Old 12-25-08, 03:41 PM
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Don't want to sound picky but set the meter to AC voltage, not current.
 
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Old 12-25-08, 05:24 PM
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I'm still checking. Your all alot of help but still checked everything and still hot.
 
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Old 12-25-08, 06:37 PM
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Zone Valve

Mark & disconnect the wires on terminals 1 & 2 on the zone valve. If that zone continues to heat, the zone valve is stuck open & would have to be replaced.
 
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Old 12-25-08, 07:33 PM
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Disconnected the wires and it cooled down. So now what? Could be possible that the wires to the stat are bare and touching somewhere? But then wouldn't it run all the time? Also working the zone valve manually it does turn on and off.
 

Last edited by Bearcamp; 12-25-08 at 09:19 PM.
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Old 12-25-08, 10:01 PM
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Too Hot

Sounds like the stat. Does it have a wide temperature swing or is it heating consistently at 70 degrees
 
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Old 12-26-08, 04:44 AM
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It's new and has a swing of 50 to 90 degrees. Last night while removing and installing wires I accidently touched some wires while putting them back on ahd the furnace wouldn't run at all. I found out I cooked the downstairs stat (one that was getting so hot) so I removed the upstairs one and left the wires for that just hang. Installed it downstairs and worked perfect all night. Just seems like with the upstairs one connected is when it acts up.
 
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Old 12-26-08, 06:38 AM
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First things first

Before saying the upstairs stat is at fault, get yourself a new stat & install it either up or downstairs. BTW, make sure the power is off when you install the new stat. If the new stat has an adjustable heat anticipator, be sure to set it at 1.0 amp. Heat motor zone valves draw a lot more current than do electro-mechanical motors.
 
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Old 12-26-08, 12:43 PM
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I'm gonna do that tonight. Although it's been working great without the upstairs stat connected.
 
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Old 12-26-08, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Grady View Post
EC, Taco zone valves can take up to 3 minutes to respond. Disconnecting the stat wires usually will not result in instant shut down.
Thanks for that info. In post #20, he said his burner kept running when the stat shut off, as well, and I presumed this disconnect procedure would actually at least shut off the burner right away.
 

Last edited by ecman51; 12-26-08 at 01:14 PM. Reason: revised
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Old 12-26-08, 05:16 PM
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Taco Zone Valves

They do close faster than they open but it still normally takes +/- 30 seconds where an electro-mechanical is almost instant (normally <5 seconds).
 
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Old 12-27-08, 04:43 AM
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We got it.........I ended up burning the upstairs stat up by touching wires when I disconnected terminals 1 and 2 on the zone valve. Installed a new stat and it works great. But I believe the problem was that the zone valve was wired wrong to the second floor as I experimented with the wiring (not knowing what went where) Removed the zone valves while they were wired and the furnace would kick on. After I removed the bad stat I just left the wires hang overnight til I got a stat. Hooked it up and it worked right aways. I just wat to say, I'm mechanicly inclined and can fix about anything but with being a first time home buyer of a 150 year old home I was dumb when it came to boilers but you guys all walked me through it to get the job done and I might add in a timely manner. I want to thank you all for the info and help with my problem that we had. I now know alot more than I did about boilers and feel that if another problem arises I can either repair it or always find help here. I hope you and your families have a nice new years as NOW,,,,,,,,,,I know I will. This is a great and helpful site.
 

Last edited by Bearcamp; 12-27-08 at 05:00 AM.
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Old 12-27-08, 06:07 AM
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Smile Got it

Way to go. Glad you got things figured out & they are now working as they should. If we could help in some small way, hey, that's great.
 
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