Carrier 58CTA no running

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  #1  
Old 01-08-09, 09:28 AM
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Carrier 58CTA no running

I have a carrier 58CTA (under 5 yrs old) with no LED signal. I've performed the restart sequence and no luck. I have tried to turn just the fan on and that didn't work either. I haven't done any electrical testing but have visually tested the thermostat and batteries, check the circuit breakers and reset it. I wasn't able to find the manual limit switches described in the manual...any advise?
 
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  #2  
Old 01-08-09, 09:46 AM
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Check the 3 amp fuse on the control board. If blown replace it and see if it blows again, then report back.
 
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Old 01-08-09, 10:21 AM
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I've checked the fuse and it appears to be fine...there are no visual burnouts on the control board.

I was guessing that I have an electrical problem.

thanks for the quick reply
 
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Old 01-08-09, 10:49 AM
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Where is the AHU located? Do you have children who get close to the AHU? If so check the switch, normally looks like a light switch. If off turn on, if on turn off and check the windings of the X-former, if those are good check all electrical connections. Maybe a loose wire, if all is good turn back on the power and remove the blower door, and push the door switch button, sometimes the blower door does not make enough contact with the switch to keep it closed.

All I can think of right now, given the description.
 
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Old 01-08-09, 11:06 AM
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It's a light switch up high outside the furnace...it quit overnight when we were sleeping. I'm going to test that switch or replace it tonight. I was concerned we've had recent mouse problem and I tracked a low voltage wire going into the furnace. It looks like the thermostat wire and it runs along the floor joists (up high). Since there are some mouse dropping in the same space I was concerned its been broken. Is there a good way to test? I can disconnect the wires from the furnace and check for continuity...does this make sense?
 
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Old 01-08-09, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by goldroad View Post
Is there a good way to test? I can disconnect the wires from the furnace and check for continuity...does this make sense?
Yes, do that. Check all wires to make sure they are not shorted to ground or one wire shorted to another. I take it you have the knowledge to do this check?
Also check to make sure you have high voltage going to the furnace from the “light switch”
 
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Old 01-08-09, 11:37 AM
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perfect, I'll try this in a few hours...the manual shows these manual overide switches and I've replace the filter with an electro that you can clean. I've never had a problem in my old house but the room in the new house is smaller. Conceivably the furnace may have also overheated and shut down. its called a manual reset limit switch. All i can see is a flat round metal sensor like device with a couple of wires going out (likely low voltage) but no switch to reset.

http://www.docs.hvacpartners.com/idc...t/om58-123.pdf
 
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Old 01-08-09, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by goldroad View Post
perfect, I'll try this in a few hours...the manual shows these manual overide switches and I've replace the filter with an electro that you can clean. I've never had a problem in my old house but the room in the new house is smaller. Conceivably the furnace may have also overheated and shut down. its called a manual reset limit switch. All i can see is a flat round metal sensor like device with a couple of wires going out (likely low voltage) but no switch to reset.
OK I did not know about the electro air filter. Is it electrostatic? If so these do have a tendency to restrict the air flow and cause overheating, in turn opening a limit switch. Normaly an open limit causes the blower to run constantly to alert you that there is something wrong.

You are on the right track with the limit yoy identified at least one of them, there are a few more, maybe 2 in the blower housing, 2 around the burners, another by the draft induction motor, all of these are called "KLICKS ON LIMITS" right inbetween the 2 wires you should see a very small red button. Press it, you may need a small screw driver or a pen to reach it. However there is one more that is the main limit, that is located dead center of the heat exchanger. It is a small (normaly black) rectangle with 2 wires coming out of it, no reset. If you have anything to jump these wires with use it. If you cannot find the one that is tripped jump out them all one by one until you find it, reset or replace.

Let me know if you need more help.
 
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Old 01-08-09, 01:21 PM
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I'll try that. It makes sense - thanks
 
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Old 01-10-09, 04:17 PM
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I checked the limits and no luck ;( They are all working...

Can't get a furnace guy in until early next week...any other suggestions?
 
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Old 01-10-09, 05:19 PM
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Frankly goldroad, I don't see that you've done anything in the way of an organized attempt to find out what's going on with your furnace.

Twice you've been asked to verify that you have 120VAC power to the furnace --- no response.

Is your furnace doing ANYTHING or making any noises when the thermostat is turned on? I presume it is not since you haven't said so.

That being the case, it's important to start at the beginning with the electrical power supply and transformer. Do you have an AC voltmeter to measure voltages and understand how to use it?
 
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Old 01-10-09, 06:31 PM
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here's what I've checked

initiate fan only from the thermostat - no response
reset the limit switches where possible - done
continuity through all limit sensors switches - continuity okay
120 v to furnance - got a reading of 109v
outlet furnace manifold to roof - okay, no blockage
thermostat wiring continuity check - continuity okay
batteries from electronic therostat - full power
Board LED status - continuous off

tried component test, not sure if you have to hold the door switch, the instruction does not specify. So far jumping the COM24 and TEST/Twin terminal with power on and no response
 
  #13  
Old 01-10-09, 06:34 PM
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there is no clicking sound at the furnace when the thermostat switches on
 
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Old 01-10-09, 06:51 PM
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If you have a diagnostic light on the board, the light should be on when low voltage (24v AC) is applied to the board. If there is a problem with the limits etc. the led will flash a diagnostic code. It seems as if you have an issue with power to the furnace (115 volt) or you have a bad low voltage transformer. With the door switch depressed, check for high and low voltage at the transformer.
 
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Old 01-10-09, 07:15 PM
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Yes, 109 VAC suggests a possible bad neutral wire or electrical connection to the furnace.

I'd check that voltage again using both the neutral wire and the ground wire and see if there is any variation in the voltage.

I'd do that again at the wall power switch, and if you still get the 109 volts, I'd take the cover off the breaker box and check the voltage being supplied there to both legs of the breaker box.

If there is still 109 volts on one of the legs of the power coming in from the utility, they have a problem they should deal with.

Odds are it's a bad connection in the house, though.

That might be the problem, although there could be something else going on.
 
  #16  
Old 01-10-09, 07:16 PM
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I have a diagnostic LED light and it is completely dark. The panel says to recall the status code remove then reconnect one main limit wire to display the stored status code.

I'm not sure where the voltage transformer is on the board.
 
  #17  
Old 01-10-09, 07:20 PM
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seattlepioneer...will check the of power and get back...
 
  #18  
Old 01-10-09, 08:00 PM
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there is 119v at the switch on both sides. I've tested the hot wire and it's showing 117v when the other side is grounded. The neutral side should have zero current correct? The box is difficult to access and test...anything else?
 
  #19  
Old 01-10-09, 09:31 PM
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thanks all furnace works...the guy who installed the wiring did a bad job and turns out a weak wiring was causing the problem. Its all fixed! thanks again, it was getting cold!
 
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