Carrier 58SSB clicking problem - gas shuts off/on with Video Uplink


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Old 01-29-09, 08:00 AM
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Carrier 58SSB clicking problem - gas shuts off/on with Video Uplink

I have a Carrier 58SSB furnace that has intermittent problems. I recently replaced the induction motor a few weeks back after it had stopped running. Now the furnace has intermitten issues where it starts up, sometimes starts clicking and the gas shuts off for a milisecond and turns back on. I'm trying to determine if it is the pilot burner assembly, the ignitor (although the furnace is already lit), or the pressure switch. I've made a video of the issue that might help provide some insight.

Here's a link to the video I shot of it last night where you can hear the clicking and see the gas shutting on/off:
YouTube - CIMG0151

When the issue happens and I turn off the power, tap on the ignitor and pressure switch and turn power back on, the problem does not resurface for a while, but it seems to be getting worse.

Any ideas? I'm leaning to the pilot burner assembly, but which I took off yesterday, but did not thoroughly clean it...the furnace was having the issue this AM...

Any help is appreciated.
 
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Old 01-29-09, 09:12 AM
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The video is an interesting diagnostic tool, and a good one. Good idea!

Your furnace is like this one---

http://www.xpedio.carrier.com/idc/gr...it/58ss-1p.pdf

The box that you are tapping on is the spark module that generates the spark to light the pilot light each time the furnace lights.


However, by the time the main burner is turned on, the power to energize that spark module is shut off, so that isn't the problem.

More than likely the problem is that the pilot burner and pilot orifice haven't been cleaned and you are getting a marginal pilot flame. The three wire Carrier pilot burner you have has a bimetal strip that turns on the main burner when it is heated sufficiently by the pilot light. When the pilot orifice gets dirty it doesn't get hot enough to turn on the main burner.

Your pilot is marginal --- it's not hot enough to switch on the main burner reliably, but joggling it by tapping on it will cause the bimetal strip to close, turning on the relay in the gas valve that is probably what is clicking.

So you need to remove and disassemble the pilot burner and clean the pilot orifice that sits on the end of the pilot tubing. Cleaning the pilot tubing with a wire from a wire brush is a good method if the furnace is natural gas.

You typically need a long 1/4" nutdriver on an extension and a 3/8" wrench to do this job.
 
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Old 02-01-09, 06:46 AM
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Problems getting worse...Gas Shutting Off More Frequently

SeattlePioneer thanks for your quick response. The problem is intermittent...but still occurs after I cleaned the pilot light orafice and cleaned the metal strip underneath it with some sandpaper.

There is still a relay clicking and turning the gas off, although this time it tends to stay off for a while...unless I tap on the gas valve, ignitor, or pilot assembly.

I've uploaded some new video from this morning, although I'm not sure how helpful it is. YouTube - Carrier 58SSB Gas Problems

I'm leaning to replacing the pilot assembly P/N LH680005. Is there any way I can test using an ohm meter before I buy?

Granted this is an old unit, but I'd like to keep it this season if possible. A month ago I replaced the inducer fan motor.

Any more ideas?
 
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Old 02-01-09, 07:21 AM
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Yes, replace the pilot burner assembly.

Since the pilot light is lit, everything is working properly to that point. The next thing that should happen is that the bimetal switch on the pilot assembly should close, turning on the main burner.

Also, pretty much the only thing that will allow the main burner to cycle on and off rapidly is the pilot switch opening and closing unreliably. Other things that would shut the burner off cause the furnace to recycle from the beginning of the ignition process.

Usually replacing the pilot burner isn't especially difficult, although sometimes getting the spark electrode off the old pilot burner can be difficult if it's corroded in place and has a screw head rather than a nut headed screw holding it in place.
 
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Old 02-03-09, 07:56 AM
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Unit is Fixed

I replaced the Pilot Assembly and unit is working well. Thanks for the help. I have a link below to a separate post if anyone is interested in following it in that it was somewhat related to this problem: Since the unit was "limping along" with a bad pilot assembly, the gas would shut on/off througout the day, apparently leading to some small flare ups. These flare ups must have triggered a safety fusible link, that shut the system down to blower only.

http://forum.doityourself.com/gas-oi...-no-flame.html
 
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Old 01-24-10, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by whose2know
I replaced the Pilot Assembly and unit is working well.
I'm having the identical problem to that shown in the video, on a 1983 Carrier 58DH gas furnace. However in my case replacing the pilot assembly (LH680005) did not fix the problem. But disconnecting the pilot safety switch and manually duplicating its behavior with jumpers does fix the problem. Any other ideas on what could be causing this?

A few more questions/comments:

My furnace is horizontal, with the burners vertical, and the pilot assembly attached to one side. Is the pilot assembly supposed to be horizontal or at an angle? The bracket holding it is quite flexible, and I don't know what the proper orientation is.

The pilot assembly has three holes on the top, are these for adjusting the pilot flame size? If so, what should it be adjusted to?

I read elsewhere that the gas to the pilot valve is not regulated, and I find that by partially closing the appliance shut off valve I can reduce the pilot flame size, from filling all three holes on top to filling none. Moreover, when I throttle down the pilot flame a little, I no longer get the main burner cycling problem at the beginning of a heating cycle. Instead, it comes later in the cycle, maybe 10 minutes. It is possible there is a position that would fix the problem, but I don't know what to calibrate it to.

Does the bimetallic safety switch work off of absolute temperature, or just the relative temperature of the two ends?

Replacing the pilot assembly required cutting the pilot tube to remove the old compression ferrule, so the pilot tube was shortened. Because of this, I rerouted it under the main burners instead of over the main burners. Is there any problem with this?

Thanks,
Wayne
 
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Old 01-25-10, 08:00 AM
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Piggybacking one problem on top of another rapidly becomes confusing.

I'd suggest you repost your question on a new thread.
 
 

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