can't find relay switch on coleman


  #1  
Old 02-03-09, 06:38 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
can't find relay switch on coleman

I have an old Coleman forced air gas furnace model number 2865-666. We replaced the bottom blower about 7 years ago and all was well until now. The blower won't shut off. Replaced the thermostat and now trying to find the right relay switch to replace, but nothing looks or sounds like what my furnace has...It is hard to explain, I took a pic, I can email to anyone for help...It has a series of circuit boards with crazy wires on the upper left. There is a big black round thing (looks like a black oil filter actually-for a visual) in the middle. There is some sort of relay that sits on a piece of metal that goes into the vent, I thought this was it at first but it seems to control the fan in the top part..not the blower. There is the ignitor/gas pilot in the middle and below it is another box that looks like it has a spark plug wire coming off of it and some other wires. Below that is the blower. It is old and I am also having to replace all the ball joints on my poor truck, so right now I am stuck paying someone to fix one or the other and I need my auto for work...sooooo that means I get to try this on my own! Thanks in advance!
 
  #2  
Old 02-03-09, 07:08 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Long Island
Posts: 695
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
your only problem is the fan is running all the time......do you have heat for the house.that new stat is what model and brand?that thing in the flue pipe is the vent damper and when the stat upstairs calls for heat that is the first thing to move... then the induced draft motor(little fan not the main house fan) that forces air thru the burner chambers.so when that starts you should hear a sparking within the burner section...then the pilot lights...then the main gas burner comes on...then your supply main fan.that toggle switch on the side of the furnace(115Vs) if put to off then on again....the cycle will restart i just explained.need to know about that stat..did you change it to try to fix the constant fan problem?make sure the stat is set for HEAT...with fan setting in...AUTO
 
  #3  
Old 02-03-09, 07:36 PM
SeattlePioneer's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 4,469
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Originally Posted by sminker
that thing in the flue pipe is the vent damper

Ahhhhh, good guess, no doubt. I didn't have a clue.
 
  #4  
Old 02-03-09, 07:57 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Yes, the heat works fine. Kicks on and off as needed and heats the house properly. Old thermostat was a progammable Hunter, so I switched it to a Hunter regular thermostat model 40070 from Lowe's. Yes, the switches are in the right places. Seems to me that would be an obvious check, but I guess some people aren't so smart..? Yes, I changed it due to the blower not shutting off, I read in other posts that could be an issue, so I thought I would get it out of the way since that part would be simple. I have the 4 wire design and followed the directions exactly. My husband even double checked because he is embarrased that I do this stuff better than he does! He agreed I had the wires right. He is afraid of electricity and I am not, that is what the fusebox is for, right...? Anyway, everything else seems to function properly except the blower shutting off. Oh, and if you lift the cover it does shut off for safety. Thanks.
 
  #5  
Old 02-04-09, 04:04 AM
S
Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Long Island
Posts: 695
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
if lifting the cover means you took the stat off the subbase and the fan shut off?then the call for the fan ON....is coming from the STAT not the furnace.if the new stat is digital/solid state you might have a sub menu to configure the fan on it.
 
  #6  
Old 02-04-09, 08:05 AM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
No, lifting the cover is when I was down at the furnace and lifted the cover that is over the blower. It turns off like it is supposed to when you do that. I was just making sure that I didn't miss any switches that might be the relay but maybe hiding in with the blower comparment itself.
 
  #7  
Old 02-04-09, 02:01 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Long Island
Posts: 695
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
what happens (with the fan) when you take the stat off the subbase
 
  #8  
Old 02-04-09, 03:08 PM
E
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,826
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
How many wires do you have coming off your blower motor? And if there is a white wire, a green wire, and a couple of brown wires, do not count them. How many OTHER color wires? Of those wires, can you trace them to see where they go and describe what they go into, and where that device is located? I am thinking the fan switch is set too low, or, if not adjustable - you may have a thermodisc type fan switch -common on real old furnaces(these are a small round device that have 2 wires that plug into each side of it) - and it might be weak or shot.
 
  #9  
Old 02-04-09, 04:00 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Sminker--if I take the thermostat off the base nothing happens, the blower stays on.

Ecman51- There is the white mentioned and 4 other wires. 3 black (one has writing on it like the voltage and the maker of the wire type stuff) and a blue wire.

The blue and one black go to the middle box in the upper left with all the other circuit board looking stuff...the part looks like an ignitor relay on the Coleman site (it can also double as a thermostat relay- the site says). Another black on goes with the wires that go upstairs (I am assuming to the termostat?) and the white and one black go to some other piece on the circiut board type area...the only markings on this piece says "second" on the side... has a bunch of other wires hooked to it, too. Maybe it is some kind of contactor...has a lighter shade of plastic to it...

I appreciate all the time you guys are giving this. Thank you.
 
  #10  
Old 02-04-09, 05:11 PM
E
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,826
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Well some kind of switch or relay has been already energized at the 120 volt level, and it is stuck there. Your description of the wires is not helping me good enough, I am afraid. At any one given moment, only one of those wires and the white neutral should have power coming into the blower. I would want to identify which of them has the volts and trace back. You would need a voltmeter to be able to do that by testing the end connections of all those blower wires to see which is producing/keeping on the 120 volts.

Photos showing all this stuff, and a wiring diagram, sure would come in handy now. Wiring diagrams sometimes are printed on the inside of the blower door cover. Do you have that? And can you or do you know of anyone that can high resolution digital photo and send us the close-up pics?
 
  #11  
Old 02-05-09, 05:18 AM
S
Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Long Island
Posts: 695
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
on the subbase...that G terminal is for your fan during the cooling season if it is GREEN or what ever color? go down to the furnace and disconnect it off where it lands.i am working my way down to the solid state stuff soooooon.Question on the air/fan do you notice if it is the same as in the AC season air or lower in sound and volume.any or all answes will give me a clue...might be the relay on the circuit board that is welded closed give you constant fan
 
  #12  
Old 02-05-09, 08:38 AM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Sminker- I will do the disconnect of the G wire(yes it is green on mine) tonight as soon as I get home. From what I recall, the blower sounds the same all season when it kick on...It didn't stick this past summer-it worked right, so I didn't pay super close attention, you know. You never pay attention to something you take for granted until it gets stupid on you like this!

Ecman51- I have the basic pic of the system set up, but I will take close up shots of stuff when I get home and go down to the furnace. I will either borrow or buy a voltmeter tonight on the way home...I got one for my husband years ago, but he can't find it. Oh, I already checked for the schematic(?) on the door and there wasn't one. I was disappointed when it was blank. I will get the pics to you as soon as I can after work.

Thanks again!
 
  #13  
Old 02-05-09, 04:56 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Long Island
Posts: 695
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
that same fan speed in summer/winter is something......at least.it should be hi/summer....low/winter.the reason for the green disconnection down on the furnace is to prove that the R and G coming down aren't touching.that will foucus on the furnace itself and the boards
 
  #14  
Old 02-06-09, 04:59 AM
S
Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Long Island
Posts: 695
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
check out this parts site for a board that looks anythng like the one in the furnace... Circuit Boards - Coleman / Evcon: Best Buy Heating and Air Conditioning
 
  #15  
Old 02-07-09, 10:46 AM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
OK, the green wire changed nothing. I disconnected it and turned the breaker back on and it kicked on again. Oh, and the circuit boards on that site were nothing like mine...I guess mine isn't as much a circuit board as much as a series of modules that are packed in tight together...sorry...I am not used to having to talk about all this stuff and still learning the terminology...I wish it was an old car - I can troubleshoot those! LOL!

I am having a hard time posting my pics. I followed the instructions on the Forum FAQ and it says I am not allowed to attach anything....soooo my email is s.saenz@mchsi.com if you would email me your address I will reply with pics of the furnace...I promise I am not some email stalker!

Sorry for the delay in all this...my mom fell the other day and things got crazy. Thanks so much.
 

Last edited by suzanne1975; 02-07-09 at 10:50 AM. Reason: need to add more info
  #16  
Old 02-07-09, 01:07 PM
E
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,826
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Take the butt plastic end of a screw driver and rap on the module that appears to have a wire from the blower fan plug in (especially a black blower wire?), and see if that stops the blower.
 
  #17  
Old 02-07-09, 06:16 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I tapped on everything in there and nothing shut it off. I got a voltmeter from Lowe's, followed the directions, and can't get the stupid thing to read on any wire. My husband tried it when he got home and couldn't get anything, either. I am going to take it back and get a new one tomorrow. I even put new batteries in the thing.
 
  #18  
Old 02-08-09, 12:21 PM
E
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,826
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
In case you are not doing something right, if you have questions on how to work your particular meter, just ask. You may also want to remove from package at Lowes and try it at store before you leave, and if you can't get THAT one to work, ask person in electrical dept.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: