Questions About Replacing Blower Assembly


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Old 02-04-09, 02:28 PM
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Question Questions About Replacing Blower Assembly

My old blower makes too much noise and I think it is because of the unbalanced wheel. I couldn't remove the wheel from the motor shaft. It may be the time to replace the entire blower assembly. My discharge size is 13 3/8(H) X 12 3/16 (W). Only one I found from the market
HVACR > Blowers > Direct Drive Fwd Curve Blowers w-Dr Pkg > Blower,Assembled,115 Volt,3 Speed : Grainger Industrial Supply
can fit that size. My questions are:

1. My original motor is 1/2HP, any problem to use the 1 HP motor?

2. Is there any easy way to balance the blower wheel?

3. How can I tell if I have the bad bearing of the motor?

Thanks in advance.

Maxl1961
 

Last edited by maxl1961; 02-04-09 at 03:27 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 02-04-09, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by maxl1961
My old blower makes too much noise and I think it is because of the unbalanced wheel. I couldn't remove the wheel from the motor shaft. It may be the time to replace the entire blower assembly. My discharge size is 13 3/8(H) X 12 3/16 (W). Only one I found from the market
HVACR > Blowers > Direct Drive Fwd Curve Blowers w-Dr Pkg > Blower,Assembled,115 Volt,3 Speed : Grainger Industrial Supply
can fit that size. My questions are:

1. My original motor is 1/2HP, any problem to use the 1 HP motor?

2. Is there any easy way to balance the blower wheel?

3. How can I tell if I have the bad bearing of the motor?

Thanks in advance.

Maxl1961
If this was me, I would not make any judgement until I found the problem.

I'd remove the blower assembly. Usually is held in by only 2 screws at the front top corners, and then the unit slides right out, towards you, along the side tracks. You simply need to rid of anything in your way when doing this, and being careful that once out, that you set the motor so that the wires attached are not under tension.

With furnace off, spin blower wheel and watch it. What happens, does it wobble? Does it rub anything? Or does it spin fairly true? If you grab that shaft in the center of the blower wheel on the open side of the blower wheel where the motor is NOT, and you try to jiggle the shaft up and down and side to side, do you detect any play? Go by the feel of it more than any clunk noise. You should not feel any slop. The only detectable slop would be "end play". That is when the shaft goes in and out. That is okay. And if you jiggle the shaft to test, make sure to do it with the shaft held first outward and then inward, so you do not combine side to side play and end play and get fooled.

Stay with the 1/2 horse. That is what was there as original? (you could check that out if need be) That size should be sufficient, to turn the blower the designated rpms. You want the rpms to be correct so it cools down the heat exchanger and transfers heat properly. You do not want a high speed heat fan!

With the blower assembly out of the furnace, you can more easily clean any caked on dust from each and every curved blower wheel vane.

Inspect carefully that the 3 motor mounts to blower housing are intact, tight, not cracked. Grab the blower wheel and try jiggling it and the blower wheel should remain centered. If it easily goes off center, more carefully see if a motor mount is defective, as mentioned.

If the motor bearing is good -when you went to try to give the blower wheel a spin, by hand, it keep spinning quite a number of times before stopping.

If you would like to try to run the blower outside the furnace to observe what happens and check the balance of it, we can help with that also, if need be.
 
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Old 02-04-09, 04:16 PM
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Thank you very much for the detail information

Thanks for the detail information. I think I have to wait a warm day to start this job.

There is noticable wobble when I spin the wheel. The vibration becomes worse after I put the air filter and close the cabinet door. If I leave the door wide open, it has less vibration.

I guess I need to buy the shaft puller in order to remove the shaft from the wheel since it is so tide.

Thanks again,

-maxl1961
 
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Old 02-04-09, 04:53 PM
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Often there is some wobble. It depends how much.

I have always managed to get the blower wheel off the shaft singlehandedly without a puller. But if you have 2 people it be easier so that one person can push out on blower wheel while other person hit motor shaft with block of wood and hammer, after motor mounts screws removed and also the screw through blower wheel that locks it to the shaft is backed out. You might spray lube the shaft at blower wheel with penetrant first. Wipe off excess later as all these sprays are flammable.
 
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Old 02-10-09, 06:14 PM
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Problem was solved. Thanks ecman51!

I ordered the motor, capacitor and blower wheel from:

TYPICAL APPLICATIONS Condensers Blowers Furnaces
DL1056 5-5/8" Diameter Furnace-Air Handler-Blower Motor 1/2 HP Features: Auto
10DV, 10MFD-370V / 440V Dual voltage Motor Run Capacitor (Oval)

And they arrived today by UPS. Removing the motor was fairly easy. It was not as hard as I thought to remove the motor shaft from the wheel as I fellowed the instruction provided by ecman51. I used rubber hammer to push the wheel all the way in, and then I used WD40 to clean the shaft and turned the wheel without move the shaft. Finally I pulled it out by myself.

What a difference it made! When it is in the low speed, the noise is barely noticable. My old blower's noise was getting worse in years. After suffering these many years, I am surprised my force air heater could be so quite.

I also need to mention, the motor current is down from 8.9 Amps to 6.5 Amp. That means my motor shall save 27% electricity (In theory)

Anyway, time to have Beer 4U2.

Thanks again ecman51.

maxl1961
 

Last edited by maxl1961; 02-10-09 at 06:35 PM.
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Old 02-11-09, 05:31 PM
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You did it. All you really needed to know is that the wheel can come off without needing special equipment. You did the rest. Glad it all worked out for you, even better than expected, and that you are most happy. And now you have learned something, too.
 
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Old 02-12-09, 06:53 AM
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More questions...

I know the fan should be running at the lower speed in winter season. The motor I bought has 3 speed settings. Should I use the lowest speed (Red color) or use the med speed (Blue color)? Since there is not much noise difference between the "Med and Low", I think the higher speed should move more air.

I haven't asked professional to come to my house for the maintenance work. I clean the furnace almost every year. Changed nozzle and fuel filter. I used my bare eye to adjust the air and fuel mix.

My question is: Without having the CO2 detector, how can I know if my furnace is working at the good condition? Or I have to leave this kind of job for the professionals?

Thanks again,

maxl1961
 
 

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