Rheem imperial drum 90 plus intermittent issues


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Old 02-04-09, 04:48 PM
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Rheem imperial drum 90 plus intermittent issues

Ok, ANOTHER Rheem drum thread...

About a month ago, I called a Rheem dealer out to look at my furnace. It wouldn't light even though the gas was coming in and the igniter was heating up, although there was intermittent issues with 120v coming to the igniter (sometimes nothing and the pressure switch would never drop from 24vAC to 0). The tech swore it was the igniter. He replaced it and in a month, the problem is starting again. Unfortunately, I am still having intermittent voltage issues to the igniter. Odd thing is that it only seems to happen when it's REALLY cold (although I might only be noticing it then since that's when it's needed the most).

Last year a tech replaced the board, relay, and igniter and it worked until this past month.

Also, it never heats up all the way to where the thermostat says. There are new batteries in the thermostat.

To me, it seems like a relay or control board issue, but I am no tech. It's just the only thing that seems to make sense to me since it's intermittent.

The model number is RGED-07EMAGS

Thanks!
 
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Old 02-04-09, 06:24 PM
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I'm not able to locate a circuit diagram for your furnace.

Typically a pressure switch is open (o volts) until the inducer motor comes up to speed, at which point the switch closes and you get 24 VAC appearing on the other side of the switch.

Are you sure you described what's happening accurately with that issue?

Again typically, once the pressure switch closes the voltage for the igniter is turned on.

Failure of the ignitor voltage to switch on is probably caused by either 1) the pressure switch not closing, or closing and opening again, or 2) a bad circuit board that is failing to turn on the ignitor voltage even though the pressure switch is closed.

You probably need to put an AC voltmeter of the pressure switch so that you can observe when it's closed and determine whether the pressure switch is staying closed when the ignitor isn't being switched on.
 
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Old 02-05-09, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by padstack View Post
Ok, ANOTHER Rheem drum thread...

About a month ago, I called a Rheem dealer out to look at my furnace. It wouldn't light even though the gas was coming in and the igniter was heating up, although there was intermittent issues with 120v coming to the igniter (sometimes nothing and the pressure switch would never drop from 24vAC to 0). The tech swore it was the igniter. He replaced it and in a month, the problem is starting again.
Here is the problem with what you just said: You did not say how often the intermittant problem occured before you had the tech "fix" it. Because of that ommission, we do not know if he fixed it with what he did (and then it or something else went bad), or, if it was sheerly a coincidence where you THOUGHT he fixed it, if the problem had been REALLY intermittant.

Unfortunately, I am still having intermittent voltage issues to the igniter.
You do not say what the behavior is. I am presuming you have not tested the ignitor for either resistance or voltage coming into it. That needs to be done. Something you yourself can easily do with a cheap volt-ohms test meter (multimeter).


Odd thing is that it only seems to happen when it's REALLY cold (although I might only be noticing it then since that's when it's needed the most).
That is common with furnace malfunctions.
Could be any number of issues, but starting with ignitor testing and pressure switch testing, as suggested, is a good start, and is all DIY-able. You always want to rule out everything else before suspecting the control board or module.

Last year a tech replaced the board, relay, and igniter and it worked until this past month.
This does not really help much. It may be one of those items again, or something else. A person never wants to make false assumptions. You want to test he furnace from scratch as if nothing had ever been replaced. Most tests are quite simple and quick, to find out.

Also, it never heats up all the way to where the thermostat says. There are new batteries in the thermostat.
That may be an entirely different story. You may simply have a stat that is not calibrated good. Again, a simple test to see if stat shuts off or not. Test W terminal down in the furnace compartment where all the thin low voltage wires connect to a power strip and have abreviated letters. See if 24 volts coming out of W terminal shuts off to ground. If it does, then yes, the stat shut off. If not, and you stil have power between W and ground, and the furnace runs and runs, then yes, that is caused by your furnace continually having the flame kill on you throughout the cycle.

To me, it seems like a relay or control board issue, but I am no tech. It's just the only thing that seems to make sense to me since it's intermittent.
"Seems" is not a good approach, as already said. Testing is easy enough. Many problems can casue intermittant.
 
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Old 02-05-09, 09:07 AM
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The problem started about 2 days before the tech came out and put in a new ignitor. It would start up and work about one in eight tries. When the tech put in the new ignitor, it was the last day of the cold spell. After he left, it started the majority of the time (about 90percent).

I tested the igniter for voltage in. When the igniter gets 120v, it fires up. Most of the time though, the ignitor isn't getting voltage. I tested with a multimeter. I have not yet tested for resistance though. What reading will a good ignitor get?
 
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Old 02-05-09, 09:13 AM
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Sorry to split-post. I'm doing this from my phone and. Couldn't get back into the other post...

I have not tested the thermostat, but I have tested the switch. Get 22.8vac across the switch any time the furnace is trying to cycle-front the time the purge motor starts to the time the furnace either fires up or shuts off.

Sorry if I am not to ing the right detAils. I have a suitable meter and can provide info if I missed something else.

Thanks
 
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Old 02-05-09, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by padstack View Post
Sorry to split-post. I'm doing this from my phone and. Couldn't get back into the other post...

I have not tested the thermostat, but I have tested the switch. Get 22.8vac across the switch any time the furnace is trying to cycle-front the time the purge motor starts to the time the furnace either fires up or shuts off.

Sorry if I am not to ing the right detAils. I have a suitable meter and can provide info if I missed something else.

Thanks
There are lots of switches on a furnace. Was it the pressure switch you were testing?

You should get 24 VAC on one side of the pressure switch whenever the inducer motor is operating. That would be consistant with what you report above.

But you also need to report what is happening on the other connection to the pressure switch. You should find the voltage on that connection only after the inducer motor comes up to speed, creating enough negative pressure to cause the pressure switch to close.

The 22.8 VAC could be an indication of a defect. What is the voltage being supplied by the transformer to the ignition control module?
 
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Old 02-05-09, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by padstack View Post
Get 22.8vac across the switch



And what do you mean when you say you are getting 22.8 volts "across the switch"?

You should be measuring the voltage from ther chassis of the furnace to the electrical connections on the pressure switch.

If you are measuring the voltage between the two connections on the pressure switch you get voltage when the switch is open, not closed.
 
 

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