Rheem imperial drum 90 plus intermittent issues
#1
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Rheem imperial drum 90 plus intermittent issues
Ok, ANOTHER Rheem drum thread...
About a month ago, I called a Rheem dealer out to look at my furnace. It wouldn't light even though the gas was coming in and the igniter was heating up, although there was intermittent issues with 120v coming to the igniter (sometimes nothing and the pressure switch would never drop from 24vAC to 0). The tech swore it was the igniter. He replaced it and in a month, the problem is starting again. Unfortunately, I am still having intermittent voltage issues to the igniter. Odd thing is that it only seems to happen when it's REALLY cold (although I might only be noticing it then since that's when it's needed the most).
Last year a tech replaced the board, relay, and igniter and it worked until this past month.
Also, it never heats up all the way to where the thermostat says. There are new batteries in the thermostat.
To me, it seems like a relay or control board issue, but I am no tech. It's just the only thing that seems to make sense to me since it's intermittent.
The model number is RGED-07EMAGS
Thanks!
About a month ago, I called a Rheem dealer out to look at my furnace. It wouldn't light even though the gas was coming in and the igniter was heating up, although there was intermittent issues with 120v coming to the igniter (sometimes nothing and the pressure switch would never drop from 24vAC to 0). The tech swore it was the igniter. He replaced it and in a month, the problem is starting again. Unfortunately, I am still having intermittent voltage issues to the igniter. Odd thing is that it only seems to happen when it's REALLY cold (although I might only be noticing it then since that's when it's needed the most).
Last year a tech replaced the board, relay, and igniter and it worked until this past month.
Also, it never heats up all the way to where the thermostat says. There are new batteries in the thermostat.
To me, it seems like a relay or control board issue, but I am no tech. It's just the only thing that seems to make sense to me since it's intermittent.
The model number is RGED-07EMAGS
Thanks!
#2
I'm not able to locate a circuit diagram for your furnace.
Typically a pressure switch is open (o volts) until the inducer motor comes up to speed, at which point the switch closes and you get 24 VAC appearing on the other side of the switch.
Are you sure you described what's happening accurately with that issue?
Again typically, once the pressure switch closes the voltage for the igniter is turned on.
Failure of the ignitor voltage to switch on is probably caused by either 1) the pressure switch not closing, or closing and opening again, or 2) a bad circuit board that is failing to turn on the ignitor voltage even though the pressure switch is closed.
You probably need to put an AC voltmeter of the pressure switch so that you can observe when it's closed and determine whether the pressure switch is staying closed when the ignitor isn't being switched on.
Typically a pressure switch is open (o volts) until the inducer motor comes up to speed, at which point the switch closes and you get 24 VAC appearing on the other side of the switch.
Are you sure you described what's happening accurately with that issue?
Again typically, once the pressure switch closes the voltage for the igniter is turned on.
Failure of the ignitor voltage to switch on is probably caused by either 1) the pressure switch not closing, or closing and opening again, or 2) a bad circuit board that is failing to turn on the ignitor voltage even though the pressure switch is closed.
You probably need to put an AC voltmeter of the pressure switch so that you can observe when it's closed and determine whether the pressure switch is staying closed when the ignitor isn't being switched on.
#3
Ok, ANOTHER Rheem drum thread...
About a month ago, I called a Rheem dealer out to look at my furnace. It wouldn't light even though the gas was coming in and the igniter was heating up, although there was intermittent issues with 120v coming to the igniter (sometimes nothing and the pressure switch would never drop from 24vAC to 0). The tech swore it was the igniter. He replaced it and in a month, the problem is starting again.
About a month ago, I called a Rheem dealer out to look at my furnace. It wouldn't light even though the gas was coming in and the igniter was heating up, although there was intermittent issues with 120v coming to the igniter (sometimes nothing and the pressure switch would never drop from 24vAC to 0). The tech swore it was the igniter. He replaced it and in a month, the problem is starting again.
Unfortunately, I am still having intermittent voltage issues to the igniter.
Odd thing is that it only seems to happen when it's REALLY cold (although I might only be noticing it then since that's when it's needed the most).
Could be any number of issues, but starting with ignitor testing and pressure switch testing, as suggested, is a good start, and is all DIY-able. You always want to rule out everything else before suspecting the control board or module.
Last year a tech replaced the board, relay, and igniter and it worked until this past month.
Also, it never heats up all the way to where the thermostat says. There are new batteries in the thermostat.
To me, it seems like a relay or control board issue, but I am no tech. It's just the only thing that seems to make sense to me since it's intermittent.
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The problem started about 2 days before the tech came out and put in a new ignitor. It would start up and work about one in eight tries. When the tech put in the new ignitor, it was the last day of the cold spell. After he left, it started the majority of the time (about 90percent).
I tested the igniter for voltage in. When the igniter gets 120v, it fires up. Most of the time though, the ignitor isn't getting voltage. I tested with a multimeter. I have not yet tested for resistance though. What reading will a good ignitor get?
I tested the igniter for voltage in. When the igniter gets 120v, it fires up. Most of the time though, the ignitor isn't getting voltage. I tested with a multimeter. I have not yet tested for resistance though. What reading will a good ignitor get?
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Sorry to split-post. I'm doing this from my phone and. Couldn't get back into the other post...
I have not tested the thermostat, but I have tested the switch. Get 22.8vac across the switch any time the furnace is trying to cycle-front the time the purge motor starts to the time the furnace either fires up or shuts off.
Sorry if I am not to ing the right detAils. I have a suitable meter and can provide info if I missed something else.
Thanks
I have not tested the thermostat, but I have tested the switch. Get 22.8vac across the switch any time the furnace is trying to cycle-front the time the purge motor starts to the time the furnace either fires up or shuts off.
Sorry if I am not to ing the right detAils. I have a suitable meter and can provide info if I missed something else.
Thanks
#6
Sorry to split-post. I'm doing this from my phone and. Couldn't get back into the other post...
I have not tested the thermostat, but I have tested the switch. Get 22.8vac across the switch any time the furnace is trying to cycle-front the time the purge motor starts to the time the furnace either fires up or shuts off.
Sorry if I am not to ing the right detAils. I have a suitable meter and can provide info if I missed something else.
Thanks
I have not tested the thermostat, but I have tested the switch. Get 22.8vac across the switch any time the furnace is trying to cycle-front the time the purge motor starts to the time the furnace either fires up or shuts off.
Sorry if I am not to ing the right detAils. I have a suitable meter and can provide info if I missed something else.
Thanks
You should get 24 VAC on one side of the pressure switch whenever the inducer motor is operating. That would be consistant with what you report above.
But you also need to report what is happening on the other connection to the pressure switch. You should find the voltage on that connection only after the inducer motor comes up to speed, creating enough negative pressure to cause the pressure switch to close.
The 22.8 VAC could be an indication of a defect. What is the voltage being supplied by the transformer to the ignition control module?
#7
And what do you mean when you say you are getting 22.8 volts "across the switch"?
You should be measuring the voltage from ther chassis of the furnace to the electrical connections on the pressure switch.
If you are measuring the voltage between the two connections on the pressure switch you get voltage when the switch is open, not closed.