Goodman GSU100-4


  #1  
Old 02-06-09, 09:58 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Goodman GSU100-4

I am on my third failed Control board (B18099-23) for a Goodman GSU100-4 Rev A Furnace.

Board #1 has been working fine so far this winder but something is wrong with my system as it quit working last night.

Here is the issues I have with the two boards.

Board #1
Thermostat calls for heat.
Draft Motor starts.
After about 20 seconds, Furnace fires and burns.
After about 5 seconds flame goes out.
Draft motor keeps running.
NO HEAT
Lite on board is constant

Board #2
Thermostat calls for heat.
Draft Motor starts.
After about 20 seconds, Furnace fires and burns.
furnace runs and works until thermostat reaches temp.
Fire stops burning. and shuts blower off
Draft motor keeps running and running and running. Will not turn off.
Furnace will not fire again until I kill the power and the cycle starts starts all over again.
Lite on board is constant

On this board #2 I see that a relay appears to be damaged and plan on replacing it. I would like to know why these boards keep failing for me. I called the Goodman company will not give me the info I need to figure out what is wrong. They say I need to speak to a licensed repair person. I would like to know what is wrong and what part to replace on the control board.

I am using board #2 until I get a replacement relay that I ordered, I hope this fixes it. Otherwise I'll need to buy another board. At $200 a pop I'm getting tired of buying these things. But I'm sure that one will fail like all the rest. Anybody have any ideas??
 
  #2  
Old 02-06-09, 10:35 AM
SeattlePioneer's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 4,469
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Trying to discuss three boards only causes confusion. It's not clear what you are talking about or referring to.


Replacing parts on furnace boards is not a good idea. Buy the board and don't put people at risk because you are not a good judge of the specifications needed for parts you may want to replace.
 
  #3  
Old 02-06-09, 10:48 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Nobody is at risk. I am replacing the relay with the same component that is labeled on the part. I'm an old electronic tech. so I know I can do it. The identical part is available in any electonics part catalog. It is a standard component.

I have two bad boards with two different symptoms. The one thing that is consistant with both of them is that the inducer motor never shuts off on either one. The third and original board that came with the furnace was tossed away years ago but it also had the same problem where the inducer motor would never shut off.

I thought if anybody had access to a Goodman tech. they could help diagnose why this keeps happening.
 
  #4  
Old 02-06-09, 05:57 PM
E
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,826
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Originally Posted by Bucktail
Anybody have any ideas??
Not other than to simply see if due to location of board that condensate water, (from furnace-a/c, or chimney) or proximity to metal is causing solder joint to arc. Have you taken board out and flipped it over to inspect solder side? Board should be coated in resin, but you can see if there is some wear mark or something behind relay.

Other than that?; junk relays/poor quality control? Bad luck?
 
  #5  
Old 02-09-09, 02:53 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Since the first two boards did fail in the summer I would have to believe that condensation could be part of the problem as when the fan is running for the AC there is water being sprayed around. Not sure how I could correct that problem as the board is right down at the lowest compartment of the furnace by the blower fan. Board does have some sort resin film on the back.
 
  #6  
Old 02-09-09, 03:15 PM
E
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,826
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Have you tried to rap on the relays?
 
  #7  
Old 02-09-09, 03:22 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: pittsburgh pa
Posts: 121
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
problem

since you have tried 2 boards and the problem still exists,iy not be the boards? you need to check the inducer motor,proving air switch,hoses and actual draft at the inducer switch.then check the venting inside and out.if the inducer just sits there and runs,there is probably not enough to pull switch closed.just my 2 cents.....also some boards are very sensitiveto grounding....try running a dedicated ground to board,and make sure connections are good
 
  #8  
Old 02-10-09, 07:13 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I've tried rapping the relay's still no luck.

I will take a close look at the grounding when I reinstall tonight.
 
  #9  
Old 02-11-09, 08:09 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
It Works, but...........

Well I was successful with changing out the relay. Furnace works like it should. Inducer does not run all the time.
I then went the next step to try and figure out why the relay failed by checking the wiring. The only thing I did notice is that the blower motor was wired strangely. It worked but I went and followed the wiring diagram.

Diagram calls for
Black - Cool
Blue - Heat Med.
Red - Heat Lo

Blower Motor WAS wired
Black - Cool
Blue - Heat 1
Red - M1 (unused)

Since the board doesnot have a terminal labeled as Heat Lo or Heat Med they are labeled as Heat1 and Heat 2. I went and wired it this way. It works but I would like to know if this is correct. Should the Blue and Red be switched or is this correct?

Black - Cool
Blue - Heat 2
Red - Heat 1
 
  #10  
Old 02-11-09, 04:25 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 12,682
Received 41 Upvotes on 39 Posts
Goodman

I'm not familiar with this particular model. Is it a two stage? If it is, I would swap the red & blue. Standard motor speed wiring is: Red-low speed, Blue-med. speed, & Black-high speed.

You need to find out where that water is coming from & fix it.
 
  #11  
Old 02-16-09, 12:51 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I was able to get some info from a local Goodman Heat Guy and he mentioned that this would be the proper way to wire the blower. So far it's been working just fine. Could be my imagination but it actually feels warmer in the house.

Black - Cool
Blue - Heat 2
Red - Heat 1

As far as the moisture I mentioned. I did notice and fixed the water trap. It had a leak and that might have been where the water was coming from.
 
  #12  
Old 02-16-09, 02:17 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 12,682
Received 41 Upvotes on 39 Posts
Blower motor wiring

The red on heat1, etc. is correct. I misread the way you said it was wired & in telling you to swap the red & blue, I was in error. Sorry.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: