Reznor unit heater


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Old 02-06-09, 05:24 PM
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Reznor unit heater

Hi all,
I have a Reznor unit heater, the kind that hangs from the ceiling. Model number XB-100. This is a 100,000 btu input and set up for natural gas.

My plan is to use this in my garage and I want to convert it to propane. I found a pdf on the net that gives the specs on orfice part numbers and I have located both the main burner and pilot orfices for it.

Trouble is, the gas valve parts for conversion are not available. My question is if I could use something like this:

Click here

In place of the existing gas valve. This valve has the 24v coil like the original. The btu rating is higher that the heater's rating but isn't this set by the orfice size anyway?

Will this work ya think?
 
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Old 02-06-09, 05:28 PM
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I recommend against replacing gas valves. Too many variables that can go wrong, in my view. Check with your propane supplier, they may be able to convert the equipment without even replacing the valve.
 
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Old 02-06-09, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by SeattlePioneer
I recommend against replacing gas valves. Too many variables that can go wrong, in my view. Check with your propane supplier, they may be able to convert the equipment without even replacing the valve.
I did. They left me a message today that it would cost over $400 to convert as the gas valve needed to be replaced.

That's why I started looking around. All the orfices only total $50 so that's a mighty expensive valve they are talking about for a standing pilot.
 
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Old 02-06-09, 05:55 PM
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So what kind of obstacles are there when changing gas valves like this? I don't mean of course the physical changing, but the application differences. There are not a lot of specs on these things.....
 
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Old 02-07-09, 02:36 AM
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By non response I take it that you think I should just give up? I promise I will not blow up anything or hurt anyone, I am not inexperienced in gas fired appliances, just not in selecting a gas valve is all.

If there were a reasonably priced cross I would not be asking this question.

Edit -
well apparently that link to Grainger will not work out so the valve I am looking at is this-

White Rodgers Combination Gas Valve,

Mfr. Model # 36C03-333

Coil Voltage 24 VAC, Inlet/Outlet 1/2 x 3/4 Inches, BtuH Capacity 230,000, Gas Type Natural/Liquefied Petroleum, Side Taps, Inlet Pressure Tap No, Low Current 0.23 Amp

Item Gas Valve
Valve Type Combination
BtuH Capacity 230,000
Gas Type NG/LP
Coil Volts 24
Inlet/Outlet (In.) 1/2 x 3/4
LP Conversion Kit Yes
Side Taps Yes
Inlet Pressure Tap No
Reducer Bushing Kit (In.) 3/4 To 1/2, 1/2 To 3/8
Ambient Temp. Range (F) -40 to 175
Amps High --
Amps Low 0.23
Pressure Setting Range (In. WC) 2.5 to 5.0
Description HSI, DSI, and Standing Pilot
Includes Thermocouple Actuated Line Interrupter, Reducer Bushings 3/4" To 1/2" And 1/2" To 3/8", Includes LP Conversion Kit, ECO Terminals
 
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Old 02-07-09, 04:27 AM
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Grainger Industrial Supply item # 2E725......$45.80 they welcome DIYers at the counter.shows $77.00 on their site???? or try these guys on-line Honeywell 24 Volt 1/2" x 1/2" Combination Dual Control Gas Valve (L.P.KIT Included.): Best Buy Heating and Air Conditioning
 
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Old 02-07-09, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by sminker
Grainger Industrial Supply item # 2E725......$45.80 they welcome DIYers at the counter.shows $77.00 on their site???? or try these guys on-line Honeywell 24 Volt 1/2" x 1/2" Combination Dual Control Gas Valve (L.P.KIT Included.): Best Buy Heating and Air Conditioning
Umm, thanks but im not sure what you mean here. The item number you posted from grainger is the same one that I was asking about and the other one will not work as it is electronic ignition.

I know a guy that does this stuff for a living and should have all the test equipment needed as well as the knowledge. If he doesn't I will find someone that does before putting it into service. I really don't think its that big of a deal but why take chances ya know? All I really want to do is find a product that will work and be suited to the application.

Edit
Actually I found that valve cheaper here:
Here
 
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Old 02-07-09, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jrjr2u
So what kind of obstacles are there when changing gas valves like this?
Iv'e wondered the same thing, actually. I always figured that if the gas pressure had to be professionally set on site, then if it were NOT set right, that then you would think that if the pressure were too high, the furnace would see temperature rise towards high limit. And if too low, that after the blower came on, that then the furnace would actually start dropping in temp after it ran a while, if the pressure were too low? And if the furnace could sustain temp and run that way for a long time, I'd have to presume the gas valve was already set up at some typical setting that happened to also work out for my furnace. So goes my logic.
 
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Old 02-07-09, 03:04 PM
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There is more to it than that I think. Flame quality and efficiency are affected if its not set up right. You could have soot build up as well. I say that if you are gonna do something, make sure to do it right. I just don't care to spend unnecessary money to accomplish the goal. Some people tend to be ripoffs.....

So how about it, anyone else think my valve selection is ok?
 
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Old 02-08-09, 04:55 AM
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Someone must have an idea on this.... please
 
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Old 02-08-09, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jrjr2u
I know a guy that does this stuff for a living and should have all the test equipment needed as well as the knowledge. If he doesn't I will find someone that does before putting it into service.
So then if you really are NOT just going to buy some valve and put it in yourself -why not ask the person you plan to install it?
 
 

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