Borg Warner with Honeywell ignition Buzzing

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  #41  
Old 03-10-09, 06:33 AM
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S/P's Right

Without a doubt it will fail at the worst possible time. Still the question remains in my mind is why it's not opening. I wonder if it's not opening because it's not getting power or if there is something, such as a weak coil, in the valve. This is pretty easy to check with a voltmeter.
Apply the probes of the meter to the terminals on the valve marked "PV" & "PV/MV" then create a call for heat. If you get 24v as soon as the spark starts the problem is in the valve. If on the other hand you get the 24v virtually at the same time the valve clicks it could be a built in delay in the control.

S/P--Agreed?
 
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  #42  
Old 03-10-09, 02:09 PM
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Sure --- it's always worth while to measure the voltage being applied to a part to make sure that the proper voltage is being applied.
 
  #43  
Old 03-15-09, 01:07 PM
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Hi Folks,

So I tested with a meter and it appears I'm getting 24V as soon as the spark starts, and it continues even after the pilot has been lit. The 24V reading on the meter continues, not the spark that is.

So looks like it's pointing in the direction of the valve.
 
  #44  
Old 03-15-09, 03:40 PM
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Valve

It is indeed pointing toward a valve problem. Do you get the
24v at virtually the same time the pilot lights or is there somewhat of a delay between? If there's a delay the problem is all but certainly the valve.
 
  #45  
Old 03-15-09, 04:08 PM
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It appeared to be at the same time, but of course now it lights almost immediately so I guess I need to wait a bit then try again. At first it did seem like the meter was fluctuating between O.L and 26V until the flame actually lit, but I think that maybe I didnt have a good connection on there with the meter. I will try again and see what happens.
 
  #46  
Old 03-16-09, 03:29 PM
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Meter Reading

It seems that the meter fluctuates wildly while the initial buzzing(igniter sparking) is occurring. It was all over from -24, O.L, 25, 26, etc...

Once the pilot valve opens, the gas flows, pilot flame ignites, sparking ceases, its a solid 25V, on my meter for whatever reason.
 
  #47  
Old 03-16-09, 03:56 PM
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Fluctuation

The fluctuation doesn't surprise me but I want to get SeattlePioneer's take on it.


S/P?
 
  #48  
Old 03-16-09, 04:06 PM
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I suppose you are using a digital multimeter? They can jump wildly all over the place, on valves that are working. I've personally tested and seen this.

I think I'd prefer an analog meter, to verify what is going on. And if you do not have one and prefer not to buy one just for this - then, to eliminate all that meter jumping, you can remove the wires from the gas valve and test just the wires. Then you should get the steady 24 volts that shows up. If you get a negative number, or a no read, try reversing the test leads.
 
  #49  
Old 03-16-09, 04:57 PM
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Yeah that's correct, its a digital multimeter. So, unless, the lead reversal or wire disconnect testing methods yield a different result, would this mean there is likely an inconsistent electrical signal coming into the valve assembly?

Whatever the cause, it certainly does disappear with consistent use of the system, only after letting it sit for a few hours or longer can I get it NOT ignite, more or less instantaneously.

Could this symptom be from a weak coil in the valve, as mentioned, as a possibility? Does the coil hold a charge at all?
 
  #50  
Old 03-16-09, 05:06 PM
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Inconsistent

Darn it. I hate intermittent problems.

The fact it's more difficult to light after sitting makes me think it might be mechanically sticking. If the 24v is solid with the wires disconnected, no doubt, at least in my feeble mind, the problem is within the valve
 
  #51  
Old 03-17-09, 04:14 PM
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If say repeat testing of the gas valve wires shows that there is unwavering 24 volts -and you then hook back on the wires and try to get the furnace to fire up, but still no fire, even though you now know 24 volts gets to the valve - try rapping on the gas valve with the butt end of a screwdriver to see if that gets it to light up. Then you'll know for sure your glitch is in that valve.
 
  #52  
Old 03-17-09, 10:44 PM
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Frustrating, isn't it? Welcome to the real world of furnace repair.

If I were doing this repair when I was a repairman, I'd probably pull out a ***new*** Honeywell spark ignition kit that included a new module, gas valve, pilot wires and whatever and take from it what I needed to complete the repair and hope to sell the other parts at a later time.

My aim would be to complete the repair in single trip and avoid having to return, since that a major pain in the neck, time consuming and customers want things fixed right away.

I'd quote the customer a generous price for the parts needed, install them and be done in an hour.

You may need to do something like that to get things working.
 
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