Oil burner wont fire when I turn up thermostat


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Old 03-02-09, 07:43 AM
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Oil burner wont fire when I turn up thermostat

When I turn up the thermostat I can hear humming in the basement but it does not fire up. Sometimes I can get it to fire up but will only run for a few minutes. Now it seems like only one radiator is getting warm, but maybe thats becuase it dont run long enough. Its a Beckett AFG
 
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Old 03-02-09, 07:52 AM
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Oil Burner

On the boiler should be a gauge which shows temperatrue & pressure. What are the readings?
Just to get an idea if the gauge is working or not, touch the pipes near the boiler. Obviously if they are cold or just barely warm & the gauge shows 180 (or the other way around) you can't trust the gauge.
 
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Old 03-02-09, 09:16 AM
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its wierd. It wont fire up when its really cold in the morning, becuase I pretty much turn it off becuase of the woodstove., but after it warms up a bit in the house I can turn it up at the thermostat and it will turn on. It will only run for about 10 minutes then turn off, even when the temp is nowhere near the set temp
 
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Old 03-02-09, 05:45 PM
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I dont know if this is part of that problem or not but there is a T feeding the baseboard heaters one side of the T is very hot and the other is still cold after the furnace runs for a while. I dont know if it was always like this for I havent been in this house for that long
 
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Old 03-02-09, 05:51 PM
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Pressure?

Did you find that gauge? If so what are the readings? You could have low pressure or maybe air in the system. Some pictures of the boiler & nearby piping (including that Tee) would help. You can post them on photobucket.com or similar site & provide a link here.
 
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Old 03-02-09, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Grady View Post
Did you find that gauge? If so what are the readings? You could have low pressure or maybe air in the system. Some pictures of the boiler & nearby piping (including that Tee) would help. You can post them on photobucket.com or similar site & provide a link here.
Yes the gauge almost got up to 200 degrees after running it for about 20 minutes. My camera crapped the bed so Ill try to post up a pick with my camera phone tomorrow. The T just splits the line after the circilator. Perhaps my system should be flushed.

All of this is happening at the same time Im trying to fix my girlfriends car, so I appreciate the help
 
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Old 03-02-09, 06:14 PM
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Gauge

On that gauge there should be another needle & scale which indicates pressure. The pressure is the part which concerns me at this stage especially since we know the boiler is getting hot.

I know what you mean. Things never seem to happen one at a time.
 
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Old 03-03-09, 11:19 AM
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The PSI on the gauage reads about 5 psi after running 20 or so minutes till it shuts off
 
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Old 03-03-09, 01:47 PM
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5 psi

If you are only running 5 PSI that is part if not all of your problem. For a single story house you should be at 10-12#. Now is when we need those pictures. Without them explaining how to increase the pressure is going to be tough.
 
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Old 03-03-09, 02:51 PM
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Well the crap just hit the fan here


One of the solder joints on my baseboards just came apart, and the gauge still reads the same

Ill try to get pics up tonight
 
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Old 03-03-09, 03:09 PM
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I think the joint just gradually came apart because of settling or something. Its a pretty old house
 
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Old 03-03-09, 03:36 PM
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Solder Joint

If it weren't for bad luck you wouldn't have any luck at all.

Hope you know how to shut the water to the boiler off. Be sure to turn the burner off at the emergency switch or breaker. Do you have the tools & skills needed to fix the break?
 
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Old 03-03-09, 03:37 PM
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Forigive me its my first time posting pics on a forum





 
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Old 03-03-09, 04:56 PM
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Good Shots

Thanks, the pics were a big help.

Behind the pipe attached to the circulator (black), there appears to be the pressure reducing valve (domed, brass colored, disc near the bottom). It's purpose is to feed water to the boiler as needed to maintain pressure.
To turn off the water to the boiler you need to shut off the water to the reducing valve. From the angle of the pic it looks like there is a hand wheel valve (blue) which may be in the line to the reducing valve.
Once you get the leak fixed we can address the lack of heat problem which could very well be tied to the reducing valve.
 
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Old 03-03-09, 05:05 PM
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Thanks Grady


I probably wont get this pipe fixed till tomorrow. It appears that I dont have enough length anymore. I dont know if its caught anywhere but I dont want to put any more stress on the pipe so I might have to add an inch or so somewhere


Fun stuff
 
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Old 03-03-09, 05:19 PM
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Soldering

Soldering a pipe with ANY water in it is no walk in the park. If you are not skilled at such tasks & especially if the joint is near any combustables I strongly urge you to call a pro. No sense in having a fire because of trying to fix a leak. We are here to help with advice on how to do it yourself but our first concern has to be for your safety.
 
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Old 03-04-09, 11:39 AM
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Line is fixed

I bled them, now what? Could it have been there was too much air in the lines in the first place?


I dont know the it splits 3 ways, from the pic it goes striaght to the kitchen and that gets heat. The right side of the T gets good and hot but the left side dont get very warm at all. Now Im starting to wonder if its not frozen as it is in a crawlspace
 

Last edited by jsepps; 03-04-09 at 12:23 PM.
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Old 03-04-09, 03:55 PM
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Line fixed

Glad you got the line fixed. Freezing is a possibility. Are there valves where you can isolate the various branches? If so you could shut down the areas which are getting heat & try to bleed the part which isn't. If it won't bleed that's a pretty good indication of something frozen. You might want to try raising the pressure to around 25 psi to see if you can force air out in the case where it might be air.
 
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Old 03-04-09, 04:22 PM
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For some reason there is only a shut off valve going to the upstairs (I think) It just seems so wierd one side of the T is hot 4 feet down and the other is so cold 4 ft down, that what is leading me to believe it might be frozen. I was running it a lot less than the past few years as well.


When refilling the system other than bleeding the lines is there anything else I should know?
 
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Old 03-04-09, 06:19 PM
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Bleeding

Pop the end caps off the baseboard. You may find small bleeders there. Some open with a screwdriver while others require a radiator key.
 
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Old 03-04-09, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Grady View Post
Pop the end caps off the baseboard. You may find small bleeders there. Some open with a screwdriver while others require a radiator key.
I did that

Should the circulator run when the furnace isnt running but the temp is not yet to the temp set on thermostat?
This is after it runs for the 20 minutes till it shuts off
 
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Old 03-04-09, 06:53 PM
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Boiler temp/room temp

The burner is not controled by the thermostat. It is controled by the settings on the aquastat. Any time there is a call for heat from the thermostat, the circulator should run unless you have a triple aquastat. Remove the aquastat cover & look for a number on the inside of the cover. It will likely be either
L8148 or L8124. The 8148 will allow the circ to run whenever there is a call for heat. The 8124 requires the boiler to be a certain temp before allowing the circ to come on.
 
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Old 03-04-09, 07:01 PM
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So I ran it till it cut off, let it rest about 10 minutes. Then I backed the thermostat off under the room temp then I adjusted it back up to kick it back on and it did. I dunno something aint right

Yes it is a L8148

What I think is really happening here is since the other baseboards are not putting out heat the boiler is getting hot enough to have to shut off but still not putting off enough heat to warm up the room with the thermostat in it.

Bottom line is I gotta find why that section of pipe aint getting hot.
 

Last edited by jsepps; 03-04-09 at 07:17 PM.
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Old 03-05-09, 08:12 AM
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I wonder if I would get more replies in the Boilers - Steam and Hot Water Systems section, being that is what I think the problem is ?
 
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Old 03-05-09, 08:57 PM
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8148

I don't know if an explanation of how the 8148 works will help or not but here goes:
Upon a call for heat from the t-stat the burner & circulator will start.
They will continue to run until either the stat is satisfied or the boiler reaches it's high limit setting.
If the limit is reached before the stat is satisfied the burner will shut off & the circ will continue to run.
If the boiler temp drops below the limit minus the differential the burner will again fire.
This cycle will continue until the call for heat ends at which time both the burner & circ will shut off.
 
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Old 03-06-09, 12:40 PM
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Thats sucker was frozen

We have had some really cold temps (before this week) for the3 past few weeks. I figured it might be frozen so I gave it a couple of days to maybe thaw being that we have been in the mid 30s this week. I kicked it on and I could hear it flowing right away and it got warm fast.

Well Im not gonna let that happen again


thank Grady I wish I could buy you a ginger ale
 
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Old 03-06-09, 05:40 PM
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Ginger Ale

I like ginger ale, good stuff. One of these days when I retire I'm going to take a few months to travel & collect all the coffee, soft drinks, beer, dinners, assorted treats, & hunting/fishing trips people say they owe me. I shouldn't have to buy anything to eat or drink my entire trip around the US & Canada.

Glad to hear all is well now get busy & insulate those pipes well. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to seal up & insulate that crawl space as well.
 
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Old 03-08-09, 07:50 AM
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B&B Enterprises

Are you sure that your circulator is running, as if it doesn't and your water isn't moving, you boiler will turn off on high limit and till it cools from just gravity feed heat, which will take a while, you may get some heat. So make sure your circulator is working and if it is, you need to purge the system of air by shutting off one zone at a time and closing the return to the boiler, if you have the proper purging set up by the boiler. If you have air in the lines, you have to get it out... but sounds like your circulator may not be working properly
 
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Old 01-22-13, 05:48 PM
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Well I screwed up and it froze again

Any tips beside heat to help free this thing up?
 
 

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