Weathermaker 9200 Blower Problem

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Old 03-11-09, 09:27 AM
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Weathermaker 9200 Blower Problem

Hi all, did a search on Google and found this site which I promptly registered at as it actually has usable information! lol

Anyway, found this post which I am going to try.

But wanted to post my symptoms just to get any other possible ideas. The blower is not coming on but when the fan button is pressed on the thermostat, I hear a click for it to engage and a click when the button is pressed again.

I don't recall any codes thrown via blinking lights. In fact, when the cover is on the fan motor area, the light stays light steady.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!
 
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Old 03-11-09, 05:43 PM
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Incidentally, I have a steady LED the whole time, no codes thrown.
 
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Old 03-11-09, 06:10 PM
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Blower

Do you have a voltmeter & know how to use it?
 
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Old 03-12-09, 06:26 PM
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I do have one and would only need a little help on what to set it at to properly use it.
 
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Old 03-12-09, 07:13 PM
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Blower Problem

Let's start with the meter. Set it to read AC volts & if it is not auto ranging set the scale to 250 volts or a range near there.

Turn off the power to the furnace at the switch or breaker.
Disconnect the wire going to the R terminal on the terminal strip of the circuit board.
Install a jumper wire between terminals R & G on the terminal strip.
When you close the blower door & turn the power back on, the blower should come on. If it does not you will need to check voltage from cooling speed fan terminal to neutral. You should get 120 volts while holding in the door switch with the power on.
No 120v = bad board. 120v but no blower= probable bad motor.
 
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Old 03-12-09, 07:42 PM
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Great! Got the meter set and ready but will have to wait till tomorrow to do the jumper wire. If I were at my parents old house I'd have a thousand options but... my townhouse is sadly lacking in basic materials. lol
 
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Old 03-12-09, 07:48 PM
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On looking at the schematics in the installation book, I realize that you could be talking about the R and G which are the 24v thermostat treminals. Am I correct on this?

I was thinking about the wires that have the clips on them and made a (newbie) assumption.
 
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Old 03-12-09, 07:58 PM
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Jumper

Yes, I was referring to where the thermostat wires connect to the furnace. As for jumpers, Radio Shack sells them with alligator clips on each end. I use them every day.
 
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Old 03-12-09, 08:07 PM
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Thanks for the help. I will let you know what I find.
 
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Old 03-12-09, 08:29 PM
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Sorry, one last question: What does the term neutral mean? The Cool terminal is the one the black wire is connected to, I believe.

Thanks, I do really appreciate this.
 
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Old 03-12-09, 08:45 PM
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115 VAC Neutral Connection, perhaps? Read enough and you might find the answer...
 
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Old 03-12-09, 09:27 PM
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Ok, final post for tonight. I found a bit of wire from another project I was working on and used it to be the jumper and got no reaction from the fan. Went on to testing with the meter and got no reaction at all from the meter so I guess that is the culprit.

Fortunately, I can put that in. I was worried that it was the fan motor which would have been a lot more difficult.
 
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Old 03-13-09, 04:05 PM
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Bad Board?

Are you sure the meter works? Easy to check by putting the probes into a known live electrical receptacle.
Also all tests were done with the blower door switch depressed? If the blower door switch is not depressed you will get no voltage reading.
 
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Old 03-13-09, 06:24 PM
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Yeah, I had it taped down so it would be powered. If the board is bad, will I get no registration on the meter?
 
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Old 03-13-09, 08:01 PM
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Board

Where you were testing, a bad board would cause a no voltage reading but so would several other things.

Remove your jumper & set your meter to aprox 50 volt scale & take a reading between R & G terminals on the board. You should get aprox 22-28 volts. A picture of the board would be a big help in helping you troubleshoot.
 
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Old 03-13-09, 08:22 PM
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Will do. I can get one in the morning. I also have the schematics for the board as well.
 
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Old 03-16-09, 08:34 AM
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Well, I had the Sears guy out just now to verify my findings and it is the board. He went out to price it and the repairs and all that just so I could have an idea and came back shaking his head.

He says he has the estimate but even he isn't going to recommend it since Sears wanted $621 just for the board. He said he monkeyed with labor costs just to get the price down to $795.

I'm ordering the board myself right now.
 
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Old 03-16-09, 03:35 PM
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New Board

What is the manufacturer & number on the board? I don't blame you one bit for doing it yourself. I'd be suprised if the board were more than a couple of hundred.
 
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Old 03-17-09, 07:52 AM
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The board I ordered: Bryant Carrier Furnace Main Control Board 325878-751
(order it from eBay. $100-$200 cheaper in some cases)

Board being replaced: HK42FZ011

Any cautions on replacing it besides the obvious (turn off power, read carefully)?
 
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Old 03-17-09, 05:55 PM
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Cautions

After reading carefully & replacing the board recheck & re-recheck the instructions vs. how it is wired before applying power. Let us know how it goes.
 
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Old 03-19-09, 06:31 AM
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Will do.

What are the rules for posting scans of documents and that sort of thing here? I can put up the board diagrams and instructions I get if it's allowed.
 
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Old 03-19-09, 03:09 PM
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Diagrams, etc.

Diagrams. equipment photos, etc. are allowed, in fact encouraged. It's groups easier to help someone if we can see what they are working on. They might be easier to view if you posted them on photobucket.com or similar site & provided a link here.
 
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Old 03-19-09, 08:13 PM
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Great! I will do that. I have my own server actually so I can host them all there.

I got the board in and everything is working well now as far as I can tell. There was a little ambiguity in the directions but after re-reading them a few times and triple-checking my wires, I took the plunge and turned it on. All is well and the heavy blower is running nicely.

Thanks again for all your help with this!
 
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Old 03-19-09, 08:21 PM
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Thumbs up Good Job

Yes those instructions can be a bit foggy to almost as clear as mud at times. It's always a good move to doube & triple check the instructions against how you have it wired.

Glad we were able to help. I'm sure you saved a nice chunk of change by replacing the board yourself.
 
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Old 03-24-09, 06:18 PM
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Alright, here are the first of the pictures:
Looking for this in the first place would have saved a ton of time. lol

Note the burned out spot on the board and matching smoky marks on the black plastic. Apparently this is something common to this board.
 
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Old 03-25-09, 08:15 AM
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Good 'catch'. It is fun, isn't it?, to not just throw in new parts, but to actually find out what goes wrong.
 
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Old 03-25-09, 09:56 AM
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Fun and a hell of a lot cheaper. Thankfully my dad was an electrical engineer for IBM so a little of that sort of kind of rubbed off on me. lol
 
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Old 03-25-09, 05:55 PM
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Burned Board

Ah-ha, ye olde burn spot. Sure nuff a tell tale sign that something gave up the ghost. Not knowing DIYers skill levels, I generally don't even mention the fact the case can often be popped open & the board visually inspected. It makes for quick troubleshooting but very few have the knowledge or skills to make a repair. I won't repair a board for a customer simply for liability reasons. I know lawyers need to eat too but I'm going to do all in my power to see to it they don't eat me.
 
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Old 04-14-09, 01:55 PM
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I'm back! Apparently, with the season change, I have discovered what might be a mess up on my part on wiring or something.

I turned on the cool air conditioning this past weekend and seemed to not be getting a lot of cool. As I walked out to take the dog for a bit of a journey, I realized that the outside exchange unit was not running.

Before panicking, I'm going to solicit a little more info if I might.

I'm assuming that the control board also tells the outside exchange to function, right?

If so, what is that control called on the board? There was a bit of an ambiguous section. I am going to upload all the info tonight, I swear so you can see the diagrams and instructions and all that.
 
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Old 04-14-09, 02:21 PM
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Here is the new board photo:

The part that had me a little stumped was the bit that is circled. I think that may be where I went a little wrong but to be honest, in some cases the naming convention used to identify a part was a bit strange.

Anyway, hopefully this will make more sense (if it doesn't already) when I upload the instructions.
 
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Old 04-14-09, 05:51 PM
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No A/C

Well, it's cooled off again & you won't need the A/C until at least Saturday so we have a few days to troubleshoot.

Let's start with the very basics. Check the breakers in the panel. If they are on look at the labeling inside the disconnect near the outdoor unit. Specificly look for wording about fuses. There could be fuses which come out with the pull out handle. If all seems well there, you will have to open the service panel on the outdoor unit & break out the voltmeter.

When you upload the diagrams we can look at them & get into the low voltage control part.
 
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Old 04-17-09, 01:37 PM
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Man this week has been a doozy. Sorry about the delay but here are all pages in a PDF for ease of transfer. If this gets hit too much I may have to take it down due to bandwidth issues... Is there a hosting place for this forum?

Document was scanned and where possible converted using OCR as well as setting metadata for SEO.

Instructions (PDF, 1.66MB) >>
 
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Old 04-17-09, 07:15 PM
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Furnace Board

I saved the file so even if you have to take it down I'll still have a copy.

When you tried the A/C the furnace blower came on but not the outdoor unit, is that right? If this is correct, double check to verify the low voltage wiring from the outdoor unit is connected to terminals Y & 24v common on the furnace control board terminal strip.

Once you have confirmed the wiring we can go on.
 
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Old 08-08-10, 05:23 PM
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Thank you so much!

This is an old thread but I wanted to express my gratitude in the off chance anyone was still listening.

Yesterday I returned home from beach-week with my family to find one of our central-air units had conked out.
My research brought me here and, as it turns out, I had the identical problem as 'kylebellamy'
Using the diagnostic steps provided by 'Grady' I determined that my PCB was toast too.
I've placed my order for a replacement part (~$160 shipped) and hope to have cool air again soon.
Thanks to both of you for all the info.
Many Regards,
Eric P.
Chapel Hill, NC

Evaporator coils totally frozen.


Controller board at home


Coming out ...


Front looked just fine ... ?


Oops. Contact at the fan relay is toast. Time for a new board.
 
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Old 08-08-10, 08:48 PM
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Way to Go

It's good to hear of someone who researched an old post & found a solution to their problem.

Do yourself a favor & get some spare fuses. Radio Shack or an auto parts store should have them. You may never need one but on the other hand having a spare might save you from an uncomfortable day sometime. I often leave a spare or two right in the compartment with the control board.
 
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