carrier furnace


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Old 09-12-09, 04:32 PM
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carrier furnace

I have a carrier 58ssb060-bc and I put a new control panel (icm275)and wiring harness in it and the ignitor starts the pilot light and both motors start up but when the flame should start up the 3 amp fuse on the control panel burns out.

any suggestions would be greatly apprieciated before winter sets in!
 
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Old 09-13-09, 09:41 PM
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Sounds like something got missed wired on the gas valve side.

You made notes on every wire where it went on the old board?
 
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Old 09-14-09, 06:25 AM
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Hello Jay
I replaced the wiring harness, wire for wire and same on the board. The original board shorted out because of a water leak. Could the short possible have ruined the gas valve and the gas valve some how blow the fuse?

Thanks
-Rich
 
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Old 09-14-09, 08:00 AM
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It could... How many wires are going to the gas valve?
 
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Old 09-14-09, 08:08 AM
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Are you absolutely certain you replace each wire to the correct marked terminal, and not presumed the new board's spade connector terminals, that may have been located in about the same locations as the old board, had the same designation abbreviations? Although, now it may be too late for second guessing this, as now the deed is done. If it shorts out not when the ignitor comes on, but only when the gas valve tries to open, it does sound like it is somehow gas valve wiring related.

The only way you would know for sure is get with someone who can bring you up the original schematic(such as HVAC expert at an HVAC supply house that carries that brand furnace/parts) of the old board, and compare connection points with the new board. Or with tech from furnace mfg. itself, if they will talk with a homeowner about such a matter. Doesn't ever hurt to try to ask.

I have not had a cause to make this test; but you could try to ohms test between the gas valve spades and the gas valve metal to see if you have a dead short, I suppose. On a/c current(which is what this is), you should never get continuity between a hot source, or the receiving hot terminal connection (or even neutral, for that matter, and a ground, as long as you first disconnect the ground wire between the appliance and the panel box.), and the clean (not painted)metal of the appliance.
 
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Old 09-14-09, 02:21 PM
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Thanks Jay and Ecman. I did replace the board wires to the correponding terminals L1,L2, Sec1,Sec2...ect. I marked all of them and made sure they were on the correct terminals.
I have 4 wires going to the gas valve (Green, white, brown and blue) the blue connects in 2 places.

thanks for the help
-Rich
 
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Old 09-14-09, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by rich1351 View Post
T
I have 4 wires going to the gas valve (Green, white, brown and blue) the blue connects in 2 places.

Ok, this is what should be on the gas valve.

1-white (3 of them)
2-Blue (3 of them one going to 3)
3-blue (2 of them one jumper from 2)
4-brown
5-green
 
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Old 09-15-09, 02:40 PM
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Yes that is how I have the wiring!
1) white
2) blue (with sheathing)
3) blue
4) brown
5) green (with plastic sheathing)

I'm thinking of replacing the gas valve because I think when the board fried out it might have sent 120V to the gas valve. But if I can I would like to make sure before I replace it.

Thanks
-Rich
 
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Old 09-15-09, 02:47 PM
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I would undo the wires, and then try heating cycle and see what happens.
 
 

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