Arcoaire GNK


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Old 10-23-09, 05:27 PM
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Question Arcoaire GNK

I have an arcoaire High effcy. gas furnace from 1997. When it turns on the draft inducer runs as normal and then the burner ignites then the blower goes on. After that it turns off and cycles again. I noticed the drain tube is full for the draft inducer. I checked for any clogs and there are none. I removed the draft inducer housing and cleaned it but it was not very dirty. I just installed a THERMOMIST 2000 WHOLE HOUSE HUMIDIFIER. I turned it off to see if that was the problem and it was not. It sounds like there is excess fluid in the draft inducer housing when it starts. Can you help me troubleshoot this model, GNK075N14A?

Bill
 
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Old 10-23-09, 06:53 PM
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Probably it's shutting off on the pressure switch. Are their diagnostic lights on the ignition control flashing? Is so what pattern?

Can you use an AC voltmeter to check to see if the pressure switch is opening when the burners shut off?
 
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Old 10-23-09, 07:17 PM
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I can't get the fluid to drain properly. Again I checked for obstructions in the drain and there are none. The drain tube is clear and I can see it fill up but the draft inducer fills up to much before the tube drains. How much of a trap is there supposed to be in the tube? This has been like this since it was installed. I looked and there are no diagnostic lights. The furnace works but when fluid builds up in the draft inducer housing it cycles several times before it fires up the burners.
 
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Old 10-23-09, 07:23 PM
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I'm sure it is. But what might be scary is the fact he has standing water in that tube and the lines are clear, so he says.

I had a furnace that did this that vexxed me 1-2 years ago, and I found that inside the rubber coupling where the 2 inch ventor exhausts into the 2 inch pvc, there was a lip that created perhaps turbulance or direct richocheting off that lip, bouncing water back into the inducer. Before I carved off that inside lip (and thereby got the furnace to work again...), I could actually see the condensate water go uphill in the clear 1/2" tube! The rental has since been sold, and I do not know if that was the sole cause of the problem, or......

I am wondering if in a worst possbile case scenario, that if the tube(s) truly are clear both directions, - if say the secondary heat exchanger is cracked, and the house register's blower air rushing past the cracked secondary, could cause a vacuum that holds back some of the condensate water, and at the same time reduce pressure switch vacuum, to be marginal.

........................................................................

I just saw your last post. Maybe you could put up some close up pictures of the condensate tubing,inducer, exhaust outlet area.

If you want to look, you could remove the rubber coupler and look inside and see if you too have an extra high lip inside that coupling, that may be holding back on some water.
 
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Old 10-23-09, 07:33 PM
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I am considering the worst case scenario, because when I took off the clear drain tube at the draft inducer housing the water flowed out of the inducer housing. I immediately blew threw the clear tube and easily pushed the water out of it, no obstruction after the inducer. So how do I check the secondary heat exchanger, if that is the problem?
 
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Old 10-23-09, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ecman51` View Post
I'm sure it is. But what might be scary is the fact he has standing water in that tube and the lines are clear, so he says.

I had a furnace that did this that vexxed me 1-2 years ago, and I found that inside the rubber coupling where the 2 inch ventor exhausts into the 2 inch pvc, there was a lip that created perhaps turbulance or direct richocheting off that lip, bouncing water back into the inducer. Before I carved off that inside lip (and thereby got the furnace to work again...), I could actually see the condensate water go uphill in the clear 1/2" tube! The rental has since been sold, and I do not know if that was the sole cause of the problem, or......

I am wondering if in a worst possbile case scenario, that if the tube(s) truly are clear both directions, - if say the secondary heat exchanger is cracked, and the house register's blower air rushing past the cracked secondary, could cause a vacuum that holds back some of the condensate water, and at the same time reduce pressure switch vacuum, to be marginal.

........................................................................

I just saw your last post. Maybe you could put up some close up pictures of the condensate tubing,inducer, exhaust outlet area.

If you want to look, you could remove the rubber coupler and look inside and see if you too have an extra high lip inside that coupling, that may be holding back on some water.
I watched the clear tube when furnace was running and the fluid was not being pulled up. Now, where is the secondary heat exchanger?
 
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Old 10-23-09, 07:56 PM
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Old 10-23-09, 07:59 PM
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let me know what you think.
 
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Old 10-24-09, 03:26 PM
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This is the first I've reviewed your thread since yesterday.

To answer one question quick, the secondary is directly above......immediately above.....the blower. When you remove the blower, you are looking up right through the tubing/grill of a secondary. The blower blows through that secondary before blowing through anything else. Welded or soldered onto the secondary tube is one or two tubes to let the condensate water out. That is what your clear tube is likely attached to. Something is upsetting the the way that water can normally drop out of there. I just theorized on that secondary possibility.

I will look at your photos to see if they do me any good and get back with you.

.........................................................

I just got back from the first 2 photos. Is that the water you are talking about? Ohhhh. That's normal. Can't be helped with the belly you have in the tube. You have a "water level". Notice how the water level equals where the tube goes through the hole on the left side of the furnace.

The fact the water is no higher than the hole leads me to believe that is okay. Now I will look at more pics.

I eliminated the wrong post. Oh well. Okay, I looked at the rest of the pics. I see you can easily disconnect the 2 inducer wires for testing if you ever need to. As long as water drips out of the tube exiting the left, and does not climb into that black thingy on the right, you are okay. Does the water dribble out okay on the left? Then we can move onto trying figuring out the true cause of your problem.
 

Last edited by ecman51; 10-24-09 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 10-24-09, 03:41 PM
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Eliminated duplicate post.
 
 

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