Rudd Gas Heater keeps turning off and I have to reset.


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Old 01-09-10, 08:27 PM
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Rudd Gas Heater keeps turning off and I have to reset.

Hello All-

I have a Rudd Gas Heater Mod: urka-a030jk08e. I liven in Eastern North Carolina and the unit is outside the house. This past Mon. I woke up and it was 57 degrees in the house. I shut the power off to the unit at the utility box and took the panel off and there were five blinks on the indicator. I removed the two red wires that were connected to the safety switch and cleaned them off with a rag. I put the two red wires back on. I then pressed the reset button that is located between the two red wires. I went to the utility box and turned on the power to the unit and the unit powered on and began heating and heated up the house. This past Thurs. the unit powered off again. I shut the power off to the unit and pushed the reset button on the safety switch and the unit powered up and began heating the house. Today I had to push the reset button again and we have heat again.

My question is this: Do I need to replace the safety switch or do you think there is a larger problem? Is this a job I can do myself or should I hire someone to do it?

It has been unseasonably cold in Easter North Carolina this Winter. Any advice/help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Jeff
 
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Old 01-14-10, 06:29 AM
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Update...Heat Exchanger? $550 in labor?

I spoke with a Heating and AC guy and explained to him my problem (exactly as above) and he immediately said it was the heat exchanger and that it needed to be replaced. I called Rudd Customer Service and was informed that i have a lifetime warranty on the heat exchanger. I called the heating and AC guy back and he stated I would be responsible for labor and that he was going to charge me $550.00 to install it. And I asked him if that included everything and he said yes. I agree to the price and tell him to order the part. I call him two days later to see if the part is in and he tells me he is going to charge me $75 for shipping so the total now is $625. I tell him I'm not paying for shipping and he says he will ask his boss. I tell him it needs to be absorbed into the $550! What do you all think? My unit sits outside and was installed in June 2001.
 
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Old 01-14-10, 07:36 AM
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I presume it was a flame rollout switch that was opening --- is that correct?

I've never seen one of those go bad. I presume you have a real problem of some kind.

As far as I'm concerned, it's ridiculous to diagnose a cracked heat exchanger without examining the equipment with care. Another possibility would be a sooted up heat exchanger, which would also cause a flame rollout problem, but is a lot cheaper to fix.

If a heat exchanger can be had under warrentee, it's often worthwhile to replace it than to replace the whole furnace. It's quite common for manufacturer's to supply the part at no charge but to charge for shipping ---- that charge is probably reasonable, although you no doubt feel it should be included in the bid price you received.

You might offer to pay the shipping charge if he shows you an invoice showing that he is paying that cost to get the part for you. Frankly, it's a considerable pain in the neck to get parts under warrentee, and a considerable pain in the neck to tear apart a furnace to replace the heat exchanger --- a major job. I'd be inclined to pay him the $75 myself.
 
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Old 01-14-10, 04:25 PM
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So you went Mon. -Thurs. with it working again that whoel time after reset? It went that whole time? Did it actually run quite a number of cycles (due to possible cold?) or not? And then after that you had a couple more failures, and successful resets?

Don't know enough about your complete set up to know if any outside forces may be acting on that outside unit to cause your trouble like temperature or air pressure inversion or strong winds or downdrafts or?.

You might want to describe your outside set up for us more.

The HVAC guy just listened to you over the phone and concluded this? Based only on what you told us and nothing else?

Is this a high efficiency furnace with pvc exhaust and possibly intake pipes?

Propane or natural gas?

Is this resettable switch a limit, roll out, or maybe spill switch?
 
 

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