Winchester furnace diagnostics

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Old 02-14-10, 12:15 PM
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Winchester furnace diagnostics

My winchester furnace up flow 80% furnace won't light the furnace control dignostic led blinks red 7 times is this the code for the ignitor?
 
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Old 02-14-10, 01:34 PM
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Are you familiar enough with your furnace to be able to tell us how the sequencing is supposed to go, and what lights the furnace off? (like, direct spark, HSI glow coil, spark to pilot ignition).

Have you tried to turn the furnace switch or breaker off and then back on in about 30 seconds? And if you do get any part of the sequence to occur, tell us wheere it stops at and shuts down.

Have you changed the furnace filter lately? Have you gone into the bottom blower door compartment for any reason lately and it is slightly ajar?
 
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Old 02-14-10, 01:45 PM
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http://www.hamiltonhomeproducts.com/...l%20manual.pdf


Reset power and watch the furnace as it tries to start.

If you get a flame before lockout occurs, you may only need to clean the flame sensor.

If flame never occurs but you do hear a click and hear gas after the induced draft motor runs for a while, you might inspect the ignitor for damage.


Flash sequence codes 1 through 11 are as follows: LED will turn “on”
for 1/4 second and “off” for 1/4 second. This pattern will be repeated the
number of times equal to the code. For example, six “on” flashes equals
a number 6 fault code. All flash code sequences are broken by a 2 second
“off” period.
SLOW GREEN FLASH: Normal operation.
SLOW AMBER FLASH: Normal operation with call for heat.
RAPID RED FLASH: Twinning error, incorrect 24V phasing. Check
twinning wiring.
RAPID AMBER FLASH: Flame sense current is below 1.5 microamps.
Check and clean flame sensor. Check for proper gas flow. Verify that
current is greater than 1.5 microamps at flame current test pad.
4 AMBER FLASHES: The control is receiving a “Y” signal from the
thermostat without a “G” signal, indicating improper thermostat wiring.
1 RED FLASH: This indicates that flame was sensed when there was
not a call for heat. The control will turn on both the inducer motor and
supply air blower. A gas valve that leaks or is slow closing would typically
cause this fault.
2 RED FLASHES: This indicates that the normally open pressure
switch contacts are stuck in the closed position. The control confirms
these contacts are open at the beginning of each heat cycle. This would
indicate a faulty pressure switch or miswiring.
3 RED FLASHES: This indicates the normally open pressure switch
contact did not close after the inducer was energized. This could be
caused by a number of problems: faulty inducer, blocked vent pipe, broken
pressure switch hose or faulty pressure switch.
4 RED FLASHES: This indicates that the main limit switch has opened
its normally closed contacts. The control will operate the supply air
blower and inducer. This condition may be caused by: dirty filter,
improperly sized duct system, incorrect blower speed setting, incorrect
firing rate or faulty blower motor. Also, this fault code could be caused
by a blown fuse located on the control board.
5 RED FLASHES: This fault is indicated if the normally closed contacts
in the rollout switch opens. The rollout control is manually reset. If it has
opened, check for proper combustion air, proper inducer operation, and
primary heat exchanger failure or burner problem. Be sure to reset the
switch and cycle power (24 VAC) to the control after correcting the failure
condition. Also, this fault code could be caused by a blown fuse
located on the control board.
6 RED FLASHES: This indicates that after the unit was operating, the
pressure switch opened 4 times during the call for heat. If the main
blower is in a “Delay on” mode, it will complete it, and any subsequent
delay off period. The furnace will lock out for one hour and then restart.
7 RED FLASHES: This fault code indicates that the flame could not be
established. This no-light condition occurred 3 times (2 retries) during
the call for heat before locking out. Low gas pressure, faulty gas valve,
dirty or faulty flame sensor, faulty hot surface ignitor or burner problem
may cause this. The furnace will lock out for one hour and then restart.

8 RED FLASHES: This fault is indicated if the flame is lost 5 times (4
recycles) during the heating cycle. This could be caused by low gas
pressure, dirty or faulty flame sensor or faulty gas valve. The furnace
will lock out for one hour and then restart.
9 RED FLASHES: Indicates reversed line voltage polarity or grounding
problem. Both heating and cooling operations will be affected. Check
polarity at furnace and branch. Check furnace grounding. Check that
flame probe is not shorted to chassis.
10 RED FLASHES: Flame sensed with no call for heat. Check gas
valve and gas valve wiring.
11 RED FLASHES: This indicates that a primary or auxiliary limit switch
has opened its normally-closed contacts and has remained open for
more than five minutes. This condition is usually caused by a failed
blower motor or blower wheel. Cycle power (24 VAC) to the control to
reset the hard lockout condition after correcting the failure condition.
 
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Old 02-14-10, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ecman51` View Post
Are you familiar enough with your furnace to be able to tell us how the sequencing is supposed to go, and what lights the furnace off? (like, direct spark, HSI glow coil, spark to pilot ignition).

Have you tried to turn the furnace switch or breaker off and then back on in about 30 seconds? And if you do get any part of the sequence to occur, tell us wheere it stops at and shuts down.

Have you changed the furnace filter lately? Have you gone into the bottom blower door compartment for any reason lately and it is slightly ajar?
I'm not sure on the kind of electronic ignitor, its not a pilot light. I did turn off the power for 30 sec. and then back on, then the blower motors started and it purged and I got a wiff gas, after about minute everthing shut down and the diagnostic light starts flashing.
 
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Old 02-14-10, 03:45 PM
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Does the ignitor have any cracks in it. Do you have a meter?

 
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Old 02-14-10, 04:59 PM
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Then good chance you have ignitor Houston shows, and you need to do what he says. And this is very DIY-able repair, and part often costs only $20-30.
 
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