Heat Pump Problems


Old 12-13-00, 04:22 PM
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Came here and read up some and tried some of the things I read before posting. My unit is a Bryant and is 11 years old. Three days ago I noticed my heatpump had about an inch of ice on the outside of it. Tried turning on the A/C and it did start to defrost. I removed all of the ice from the outside and today I took the cover off and using a heat gun removed the ice from the compressor. Started it back up and it is already stating to ice back up, just seems not to kick into defrost mode. Also noticed there were no reset buttons assessable from where I was at. In touching the freon tube it was warm. It is also heating but I have no idea how much the aux is running since the light on my thermostat does not work. I do know by looking at my power meter that it is not running all the time. I can also make the heat turn off by lowering the thermostat. (Trying to provide as many details as possible) I appreciate any suggestions and help on this. Trying desparately to avoid the repairman.
Thanks Much
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Old 12-13-00, 06:08 PM
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From your description you may have a variety of problems. Avoiding freon problems, like leaks, which it may very well be. With the bryant we can test the defrost circuit.
Bryant uses a time/temperature style defrost system. That means defrost will only initiate when both the timer and t'stat are calling. But it only takes one, time/temp to take it out of defrost. Time is kept on the defrost board(located in the control area of the heat pump) and a defrost t'stat (clipped on the lower part of the coils inside the compressor area)
First we ck the board: Shut down outdoor unit at the disconnect. Remove access panel to controls. You will see a circuit board with t'stat wires to it. On the board you will see two pins close together with test written by or under them(sometimes the pins will have a little plastic 'boot' on them,remove it) Next jumper the two pins, make sure they will make and keep good contact. Now look on the board for the defrost t'stat wires. They should be black and on the stab-ons labeled dft. If only one dft designation then the board has been changed and you will have to physically follow the wires from the t'stat to the board. Also jumper those two points. This will take the t'stat out of the circuit. Make sure your indoor t'stat is calling for heat and turn your disconnect back on. Now listen(it may take a minute or two) for your reversing valve to enegize and the outdoor fan to shut off and quickly remove the test jumpers. If the unit stays in defrost, then the defrost t'stat may be bad. If it doesn't go into defrost at all then the board is bad. Also you may try the test without the defrost t'stat jumpered after the unit has been running awhile and has started to ice up. If it goes into defrost on test, then you have some type of mechanical/freon problem and the t'stat is likely to be good.
Also make sure your outdoor coils are clean and free of debri. This will make bad frost and defrost situations.

[Edited by fjrachel on 12-13-00 at 09:13]
Old 12-13-00, 08:30 PM
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Over my head

Fjrachel, I appreciate your answer. It did go far over the ability of what I will be able to do. Sounded pretty complicated for the laymen.
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