Trane XE 80 / XE80 ignites and burns but still blows cold air

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  #41  
Old 11-13-10, 11:40 AM
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The way you describe your point number 3 in your post blow, it sounds like you have an open combusion chamber, not one that is enclosed requiring screws to be removed, to remove a cover, to be able to reach into where the fire is burning.

I presume you only have one pressure switch, since you do not mention another? Do you know if the Trane furnace you have has a 2-speed inducer fan?

Regarding the suction and pinch-off test on the vacuum tube, to be certain it is the switch leaking air from the diaphram, you have to be certain it is being totally pinced off. Some tubing is hard to pinch-off. You might want to got to an auto parts store and buy supple black rubber vacuum tubing and try pinching that. Other than this test, the only way you could know is with a manometer, as SP has stated. Or, of course, chancing it, and buying a new PS. But wouldn't you hate that if then you found out that the PS itself was not the problem?
 
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  #42  
Old 11-13-10, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ecman51` View Post
The way you describe your point number 3 in your post blow, it sounds like you have an open combusion chamber, not one that is enclosed requiring screws to be removed, to remove a cover, to be able to reach into where the fire is burning.

I presume you only have one pressure switch, since you do not mention another? Do you know if the Trane furnace you have has a 2-speed inducer fan?
as soon as you take off the outside cover the "gas rail" and all that is right there.


as far as I know, there is only one pressure switch. Does the reverse flow switch affect anything with the pressure switch? It deals with temperature drop or something? And that it's located just under the White Rodgers computer on the main blower housing.

and I don't believe this is a two speed fan.

Originally Posted by ecman51` View Post
Regarding the suction and pinch-off test on the vacuum tube, to be certain it is the switch leaking air from the diaphram, you have to be certain it is being totally pinced off. Some tubing is hard to pinch-off. You might want to got to an auto parts store and buy supple black rubber vacuum tubing and try pinching that. Other than this test, the only way you could know is with a manometer, as SP has stated. Or, of course, chancing it, and buying a new PS. But wouldn't you hate that if then you found out that the PS itself was not the problem?
yeah, trust me...I've thought about it. 60-70 bucks down the drain if I'm not right. And about me clamping the hose I bought, I also bought adjustable hose clamps and squeezed the mess out of the hose on both ends. I pulled pretty hard on each end which didn't budge at all. I'd say I had a perfect seal. Home Depot had some latex hose but that was 20 bucks...no thanks. I thought about using fuel line but ran to the hardware store quick...
 
  #43  
Old 11-14-10, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by walth View Post
. Does the reverse flow switch affect anything with the pressure switch? It deals with temperature drop or something? And that it's located just under the White Rodgers computer on the main blower housing.
Not sure. I'd be able to figure it out though off wiring diagram or in person by tracing the wires. That is what I like about furnaces - you can find where the wires all go, unlike newer cars.
 
  #44  
Old 11-14-10, 03:43 PM
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this packard is EXACTLY what I have...except mine is a Jakel J238-138-1344 (seems kind of weird to me). Plus, it was made in 97, lol. It's 3000 rpm like in the link below.

Packard Draft Inducer 120 Volts 3000 RPM $83.93

and yes, the reverse flow switch is in-line with the PS (at least as far as the yellow wires go)
 
  #45  
Old 11-15-10, 04:34 PM
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Want to hear a good one? I had to replace a faulty pressure switch (must have been one of the 5%) today, made in Costa Rica (a smaller plastic housing one). Paid $42 for new one. Only THEN to pry apart the old one, without damaging it to my surprise, and tweak the points, and now it works.

If any safety device opens on the yellow wire circuit, while the furnace is burning, it will shut off your fire. If any device on the yellow circuit is open from the very beginning of the call for heat, then you will not even get ignition.
 
  #46  
Old 11-15-10, 11:39 PM
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nice. at least you have a "spare" yeah? lol. I think that's what the "OEM" PS is for my trane model...but for whatever reason, mine came with a different model / was setup a touch differently...

so any thoughts? I want to make sure I didn't miss any questions...

you had asked me about the "open combustion area"; 2 speed inducer, 2nd ps, ...intake...

I'm guessing what I'll do is use the original hose since i'm 100% positive it has no tears, breaks in the ends, etc and is legit. I will put a hose clamp on the PS nipple and crank it down, then I'll pull vacuum and block the tip with my tongue so to cork the hose and see what it does from there. and I'll get back to you on that "today" lol
 
  #47  
Old 11-18-10, 02:59 PM
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welp, found the issue. it was a bird lodged into the exit of the inducer fan. DOH!
 
  #48  
Old 11-18-10, 05:11 PM
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Glad to hear you found the trouble. I had the same thing in a rental a few weeks back. Only mine was lodged in the vanes of the inducer.
 
  #49  
Old 02-05-12, 01:51 PM
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haven't visited this in a long while. I got a reply to another thread, kind of interesting...accidentally posted there. anyway

since this happened I've also replaced the blower motor. Bearing was starting to go bad. Capacitor didn't have the oomph to get the motor started. Pretty easy fix

thank you again forum, good times
 
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