Rudd Silhoette doesn't fire

Reply

  #1  
Old 11-11-10, 12:03 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: us
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Rudd Silhoette doesn't fire

Hi All,
Iím a new member, I have a Rudd Silhouette gas heater that is not lighting, it was installed, new in the house, in 1994 (I donít have a manual or Mod#). I bought the house 4 years ago and immediately had to replace the igniter in order to get it running. This season I tried to start it last week and the igniter would go on and the 4 flues would light, but the heater would shut down after about 25 seconds. After a few subsequent tries the igniter wouldnít even turn on. I tried:
1) cleaning the Honeywell electrostatic filters
2) r/r the igniter
3) cleaning the flame sensor (wire brush)
4) cleaned the flue in front of the flame sensor (wire brush)
5) checked all connections
6) continuity in igniter Ė Yes
7) Has a relatively new pressure switch installed in 2006.


Before I throw in the towel and call the repairman does anyone have any suggestions? Iím sure itís going to be some silly thing that will irk me to have to pay $200 to find out!

To summarize: The heater induction fan does turn on when I turn on the thermostat, the igniter no longer glows (did the first few times) the blower stays on for a minute or two and then shuts down. It obviously looks like no power is getting to the igniter and no gas to the flues.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 11-11-10, 12:25 PM
SeattlePioneer's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 5,503
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
By the "flues" I expect you mean the burners.

The sequence of events that ought to happen is:

1 Thermostat calls for heat

2 inducer motor comes up to speed

3 pressure switch closes

4 ignitor heats up to white hot

5 main burner gas switches on

6 main burners light

7 after 30 seconds or so, the fan that circulates air around the house turns on.


The probability is that the pressure switch isn't closing, or not closing reliably. How many wires are connected to the pressure switch?

Do you have an AC voltmeter or multimeter you can use to check voltages?

Please post the model number of the furnace which can be obtained from the rating plate in the burner compartment of the furnace.

4.
 
  #3  
Old 11-11-10, 03:35 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: us
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Seattlepioneer,
There are two wires going to the pressure switch, one red, one brown (switch looks fairly new). Yes, I do have a voltmeter, as an amateur car repair guy, I was going to see if there was voltage to the ignitor, but it was obvious that there wasn't, and I was a little leery of checking when the blower was running. I guess your going to ask me if there's voltage one of those wires from the pressure switch? I know it's sounds silly, but I couldn't find a rating plate anywhere in the burner compartment, there was plenty of instructional stickers, but no readily identifiable plate (and I looked hard!) The burner cover simply says "Ruud Silhouette" and the IIBC board on top says hamilton. It looks exactly like some of the Silhouettes I've seen on the other forums with four burners below, a ignitor to the right and a flame sensor to the left, it's got a honewell gas valve before the burners. Thxs for the help.
 
  #4  
Old 11-11-10, 04:23 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: us
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
mod number

I found the model # UGLG-10EBRJR. I'm wondering if the "new" pressure switch could have already gone bad after only 4 years? That might explain why the ignitor worked initially and then stopped firing?
 
  #5  
Old 11-11-10, 04:55 PM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 8,629
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
In SP's post #2, 1-5 can be tested with a voltmeter, during the operation even, to see if each works and stays working, or which quits. If pressure switch does not get enough suction to suck in the plunger, the ignition sequence will not start, if furnace suction is marginally low to start with - or- can maybe start, but then fail (open)during the operation, which is actually quite typical.

You have to test each PS wire individually, to a good ground on the furnace. If there is a drop in suction, what happens is the incoming voltage to the PS stays, but the outgoing voltage on the pressure switch goes away (since the switch opens). That is why you have to test both. IF the incoming voltage ALSO gets lost, then you have failure in the safety circuit upstream of the PS, like at a rollout switch, or ID spill switch, or limit switch, for example.
 
  #6  
Old 11-24-10, 02:53 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: us
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
testing PS switch

Guys,
I bought a new Pressure switch and before I R/R the old switch I'm going to test the old switch by using a voltmeter on it. I should be getting 24 or 110 at the switch? Also can I leave the gas off for this test? Secondly those switches (3 in all) that are near the burners, could they be the problem? On the glass surface facing the burners they seem to be a little dirty or discolored, can they be cleaned? I notice that on one of them, to the left over the burner near the flame sensor, that if I rub it with a cloth it starts the main blower fan! A quick explanation of what they are and would they do would help.

Joeysal4
 
  #7  
Old 11-25-10, 04:20 PM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 8,629
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Joeysal4 View Post
Guys,
I bought a new Pressure switch and before I R/R the old switch I'm going to test the old switch by using a voltmeter on it. I should be getting 24 or 110 at the switch?
Yes. At least to one wire. Should be both wires when inducer motor runs.

Also can I leave the gas off for this test?
Yes.

Secondly those switches (3 in all) that are near the burners, could they be the problem?
You never know. These can be tested same way as with the pressure switch. All 3 switches should be "closed"(meaning they have the ability to pass current thru them) when the furnace run sequence is going. These are tied into the same safety circuit as the limit switch, pressure switch, and maybe even a spill switch on the inducer fan housing.

On the glass surface facing the burners they seem to be a little dirty or discolored, can they be cleaned? I notice that on one of them, to the left over the burner near the flame sensor, that if I rub it with a cloth it starts the main blower fan! A quick explanation of what they are and would they do would help.
Are you talking about the glass lenses themselves?
 
  #8  
Old 12-07-10, 10:28 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: us
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Hi All,
Just a quick update, I read on some other forum to check the induction fan rubber tube to the pressure switch to make sure it wasn't plugged and guess what it was plugged with some white debris (maybe a moth's cocoon). I cleaned it out and everything works!

JoeySal4
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes