Oil Burning Furnace: Bad Ignitor?

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  #41  
Old 11-30-10, 04:39 PM
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I just told my wife what you said and then she watched me throw my orange piece of crap in the trash.

If you do call Beckett tomorrow could you please ask them why I would have been told to take the static plate out and put it with my orange tool in the trash?

The lady asked me for my serial number of my AFG and I gave it to her #070823-72866 and then she entered it and told me I had a DS903 R13 which was correct and then she said to remove the static plate.

I would have asked her more myself, but I think she was starting to pick me off as being a homeowner as opposed to a heating professional.

Thank you Grady!
 
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  #42  
Old 12-01-10, 02:53 AM
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You did the right thing take the staic plate out { our European verison is yellow } as far for 3 1/8 R either the shutter setting or depth one of the two due I don't have standard numbers with me all I have metric verison here and I will let Grady call them to see what the scoop with that one.

Unless I recall that is R mean reteaning head and how far you set in but not sure but just hold on that part until G answer it first.

Merci,
Marc
 
  #43  
Old 12-01-10, 02:21 PM
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Static Plate

Well, I called Beckett today & they told me the "R" designates a Round static plate. The round plate is a full circle unlike the standard "U" plate which is missing the upper 1/3 of the circle. There was no mention of removing the static plate. In fact I was told the "R" plate is used only in a very limited number of applications.
 
  #44  
Old 12-01-10, 05:47 PM
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I think I'm inclined to disregard what the lady said now, because come to think of it she was talking about my plate as being half moon shaped (and I didn't know what she meant) but mine is a full round circle.

Possibly because my furnace is a positive pressure furnace I am one of the few that does need to have the round static plate in there.

You know, and come to think of it further . . . she does not know what my application is so how could she say with any authority one way or the other.
 
  #45  
Old 12-01-10, 06:27 PM
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From the burner serial number she should have been able to tell on which furnace model(s) that burner was used. I don't understand her comment about discarding the static plate unless she thought you were replacing it with the correct one.

If it is now working well, leave sleeping dogs lie lest they bite you in the butt when you disturb them.
 
  #46  
Old 12-02-10, 06:11 AM
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If I'm tracking with this correctly, the lady at Beckett is saying that I should have one (static plate) with a half moon shape, and I should take it off.

But, in your OEM guide you are showing that I should have a round plate (which I do) and it should stay on.

Sooooooo . . . I think, at this point, what sounds best is to let those sleeping dogs lie because the furnace is running well. I would like for this to be a pure science; but, maybe we should allow some room for the fact that this is an art as well (maybe it's okay to compensate for a deficiency at times as I think I have been in the past with my bad electrode settings . . . although, I did read that bad electrode settings can cause premature failure of an ignitor! which was exactly what started all of this).

Although, I do want to possibly do a little more fine tuning and see exactly where I'm getting a trace of smoke at. My numbers are good, but I'll feel better about knowing where the trace of smoke is to be found.

And, also . . . I noticed the other day that my smoke tester doesn't seem to be pulling as hard as it used to. It used to take a little effort to pull the pump back ten times and now I think it is noticeable easy to pull. I wonder if there is any maintenance I can do with this like some vegetable oil around the piston in the cylinder or something.

Possibly I am not getting an accurate smoke test if my tester is not pulling the air sufficiently?

PS I pulled my orange plastic gauge out of the trash and decided to keep it in my combustion kit as a reminder to not take anything for granted and to double check everything when the chips are down.
 
  #47  
Old 12-02-10, 02:02 PM
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A way to test the seal in the smoke pump is to snug down the two parts where the paper slips in, seal the end with a piece of tape & try to pull the handle. If you can't, the seal is good.

Doggone it, I told you to pitch that orange piece of junk. If you put it back in the kit, you're going to be tempted to use it.
 
  #48  
Old 12-03-10, 08:09 PM
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No worries on the orange gauge from hell, it is only in my kit as a kind of alter of remembrance and kind of an encouragement believe it or not for the next time I find myself toughing out a problem or multiple problems with my furnace.

As far as my smoke tester goes, I snugged it and taped up the end and I could pull it about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way back, and when I let go of the handle it sprung back to about 1/3 of a draw and stayed there. Does this sound like it is okay or do I need to get a new piston.

If I need a new piston, is there an online place that I might try for this?

As always, thanks very much Grady!
 
  #49  
Old 12-04-10, 02:01 PM
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Smoke Pump

It sounds like your pump is ok. I know the test standard calls for 10 pumps but I always go 15. That way I know if I have a clean burn at 15 pumps, I certainly will at 10.
 
  #50  
Old 12-06-10, 04:14 PM
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Okay, from now on 15 pumps it is.

I'm going to wait until I get a fresh delivery of oil to do the fine tuning. The oil I have now is going on three years old (due to my wood burning stove installation a couple years ago).

But, in the meantime, I've always wondered about a couple very slight kinks in my black hose on my draft meter. These are depressions from where the hose winds around the meter and sits in the case. Do you think I should replace this hose?
 
  #51  
Old 12-06-10, 04:21 PM
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Hose/Fuel

Slight kinks I wouldn't sweat but if you'd be more confident in your readings go ahead & replace it.
On the subject of fuel, if you have a considerable amount in the tank, adding 100 gallons of kerosene would probably do it good. Obviously if you've used a fuel stabilizer & the fuel still is clear red don't bother with the kero.
 
  #52  
Old 12-06-10, 08:13 PM
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The otherwise the 400 Liter { Apx 115 gallons } USLD will do wonder to loosen the stuff and yes you can use the diesel fuel treatment but don't go crazy and if you plan to add any fresh fuel you may end up change the filter at least once maybe duex more.

The reason why due when you fill up more fuel oil or Kenornse or ULSD you may stir the stuff up so expect that.

Merci.
Marc
 
  #53  
Old 12-06-10, 08:20 PM
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Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel

Speaking of such, that's all I burn. It's amazing how much cleaner the boiler stays. Now if I could just find that pesky air leak. Oh, heck with it, I'll just install a Tigerloop when I finally get around to it.
 
  #54  
Old 12-06-10, 08:26 PM
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Grady .,

In France the standard fuel oil is slowly disappair just like you see in USA side we are burning ULSD and it burn much cleaner and cheaper than Kenornse unless you snag Jet Fuel A { which I get it from time to time } and with JFA that is one of the cleanest fuel I can burn on oil family side including diesel engine { they seems love it and you can't even smell the exhaust at all that how clean they are but loose about 15% of Horsepower level due slightly lower KW (BTU)rating }

And yesterday I did help one of my customer to install the new oil burner and rewired that house and did use the tigerloop let me tell ya pretty simple hook up but work really wonder and not hear any funny rumble with the set up.

Merci.
Marc
 
  #55  
Old 12-07-10, 06:30 PM
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Jet A

I wouldn't make a habit of burning JFA full time. That stuff is really "dry" & has VERY little lubricating properties. Could be hard on pumps. The voice of experience speaks.
 
  #56  
Old 12-07-10, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Grady View Post
I wouldn't make a habit of burning JFA full time. That stuff is really "dry" & has VERY little lubricating properties. Could be hard on pumps. The voice of experience speaks.
Psst.,

A tip for ya get the two stroke oil mixure and put a little bit in there that will help alot you don't need very much but it will make up the diffrence there on the pump. otherwise diesel fuel addtive which they will have lubeacit thing in there as well.

Merci.
Marc
 
  #57  
Old 12-08-10, 04:16 PM
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Thanks for the info on the testing equipment and fuel.

I have about 3/8 of a tank now. The color is very red. My plan is to run it down to 1/4 tank and then order a fill up. My oil man said since I am burning mostly wood these days that I should add a drub store bottle of isopropyl (sp?) alcohol that is 99% alcohol at the time of filling and then once per year after that until I get my next refill.

I"m thiking I will wait for the new fuel and then check my numbers again and find my place where I do actually get a trace of smoke.
 
  #58  
Old 12-08-10, 06:16 PM
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I've used IPA myself a couple of times but only to help with a water problem. If you do use the alcohol, don't go to the drug store to get it. At best it will be 70% (30% water). The only places I've found 99% are farm or veterinary supply stores. The best way to test for water is to drain a pint or so from the bottom of the tank into a glass bottle or jar & let it stand for a couple of days at room temp. Any water will settle.
 
  #59  
Old 12-17-10, 07:33 AM
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Grady & Marc,

We are having out of town company today, so I let my wood burning stove go out and just hit the button for my furnace to come on. I stood there next to it admiring the smooth start up and the smooth running of the burner and smiled. And, just for kicks, even though I haven't burned up my old oil yet and still need to do the very fine tuning (and learn how to use my Co2 tester) I took some readings and had very good numbers, and smiled again and thought of you guys. You guys are so helpful and provide such a good thing here, I hope the expression is true for you that what goes around comes around.

I hope you both have a Blessed Christmas and a very Happy New Year!

With much gratitude,
Rick
 
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