Fresh air intake or boiler?


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Old 01-10-11, 10:46 AM
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Fresh air intake or boiler?

I was having trouble with smells from our boiler. Had the oil company out here today and they did a tune/clean and also turned the power venter to run a longer time after shut off. Before it would run for about 30 seconds after the boiler turned off now it is set to about 6 minutes.

The tech also mentioned there is a fresh air kit, as the boiler is located in a utility room in the basement (the other side is finished) and the utility room does not have any outside windows, so it might be struggling for air.

I can smell it when the power venter turns off right at the flapper.

Would this fresh air kit solve my problem? Can can someone point me to a link for these? I tried a search but not sure what I should be looking for. The boiler is a weil mclain gold p-wtgo-3.

I would have to install this on the same wall as the power vent, would that be an issue with sucking in the exhaust from the power venter?
Thanks
 
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Old 01-10-11, 01:07 PM
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Page 5 ( Beckett, and field controls makes them)

http://www.weil-mclain.com/en/multim...ner_manual.pdf

Here is the kit

Patriot Supply - 51747

Cheaper

CAS-2B - Field Controls CAS-2B - Beckett Oil Burner AirBoot Kit (2.0 GPH)

Instructions

http://s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1260..._PROD_FILE.pdf


How big is the utility room? width, height, length? Any other appliances in the utility room and if so how many btu's? How big is the door opening? What type of door? louvered? Are there air opening now? What size?

Mike NJ
 

Last edited by lawrosa; 01-10-11 at 01:23 PM.
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Old 01-10-11, 05:37 PM
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Utility room is 10X14. Ceiling height is 8ft. No other appliances in the room. There is a sump pump that is well sealed and also a radon unit but that goes down under the slab and is sealed up tight too.

There are two doors leading into the room, both are your normal 30" width hollow core door, no louvers.
There is weather stripping around each door and on the bottom so really no air is getting in from the finished side.

There is insulation in the ceiling of this room that is not covered.
One tech told me to get rid of it because the fibers are constantly coming off and getting sucked in. What do you think?

To me the room seems to have alot of air in it, its not stuffy in there at all. When I get a smell it comes from the draft control. Seems to be better now that he turned up the time the venter stays on. He stated he didnt want to keep it on any longer, said its a fine line on venting out and too much cooling. He also said there shouldnt be a problem with the boiler getting plugged up from not getting sufficient air, but if it started too then the fresh air kit would be the best bet. What are your thoughts?



Would the air boot be easy to install. I usually do my own work around the house the only thing I havent taken on yet is the furnace. The instructions seem pretty straight forward, and I know the oil co. will charge alot to do this.

Thanks for the help.
 
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Old 01-10-11, 05:48 PM
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You gave alot of good info. I am not an oil guy. Hopefully they will chime in. I will look for the calculation for the size of the room and how much make up air you need. So the room is sealed and no louvered vents at all? If you close both doors where do you think the air will come from?

I will post back shortly, unless someone beats me to it.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-10-11, 06:00 PM
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Fresh air kits are good but sometimes can cause combustion problems due to cold air being pulled directly into the buner. Before going to the expense & trouble to install one I'd try bringing in air to the room & piping this outside air into a bucket on the floor. The bucket will serve as a cold air trap. Depending upon the kind of burner you have, there may not be a kit available for it, specificaly the Weil-McLain QB burner.

The insulation shoud be coverd with dry wall.
 
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Old 01-10-11, 06:31 PM
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Well I got this so far. But before I get to involved I would say change out those doors to louvered. Your at .95GPH with that boiler

Going to look up NFPA


Follow state, provincial or local codes when sizing
adequate combustion and ventilation air openings.
In absence of codes, use the following guidelines
when boiler is in a confined room (defined by NFPA
31 as less than 7200 cubic feet per 1 GPH input of
all appliances in area. A room 8 ft. high x 33.5 ft. x
33.5 ft. is 7200 cu. ft.):
 
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Old 01-10-11, 06:42 PM
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I think that room is too small. Did you have this install inspected?? If a newer install I think the installer should be responsible. From what your manual says the room is too small and you need more air. A inspector would of fail that and the contractor would need to come out do whatever to pass code.

Read page 5 here.

http://www.weil-mclain.com/en/multim...ler_manual.pdf

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-10-11, 07:54 PM
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House was bought this way. Would changing the two doors to ones with louvers solve the problem? The finished space is an additional 4500 - 4800 cu ft.

As mentioned before the doors are 30" by 80".

This is still less than 7200 but even if the basement was totally open (not finished) it would only be about 6000 cu feet tops.
 
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Old 01-10-11, 08:03 PM
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Why dont you just open those two doors and see how it goes with your issue. You are the best one to make a judgment if you see a change in function.

Hopefully the power ventor is sized correctly.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-11-11, 03:49 PM
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Rather than opening doors to conditioned areas of the house & drawing combustion air from inside, I'd rather see the room insulated well & combustion air brought in from outside. Why spend all that money to heat the air in the house then exhaust it when all of the air needed for combustion be brought into the heater room? Just doesn't make sense to me. This is exactly why commercial buildings have mechanical rooms ventilated to the outdoors.
 
 

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