Forced Hot Water Heating System Problem

Reply

  #1  
Old 12-24-00, 02:18 AM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Question

The pressure/altitude gauge shows 0 (zero). No hot water circulation because it seems there is no water in the tank. The pump works fine. I flushed the entire system, drained the expansion tank without results. Any ideas what I should do? Thanks.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 12-24-00, 07:20 AM
fjrachel
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Do you have water in the system? Did you check the pump? The pump motor may work, but the coupling,shaft or circulator may be bad. Your water psi may be above 15psi and be water bound/air bound.
 
  #3  
Old 12-24-00, 07:57 AM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
When I open the radiator vent(s), I don't see any water. There is no water in the expansion tank either, since I drained it last night. The pump motor is running. Not sure if the circulator works. I still have hot water running OK in the kitchen/bathroom, but there is no hot water (or any water) in the radiator pipe.

Mine is a serial loop system. The pressure/altitude gauge of the boiler is still at zero (0). It was like this even before I drained the boiler, which at the time, did have water. What does 0 psi reading mean? How do I get water in the boiler? It seems the water from the main line can't get into the heating system. The main shutoff valve is open as always. There is one abnormality in my system, the pressure relief valve is in series with the pressure reducing valve. That is, water flows through the main shutoff valve, through the pressure reducing valve, then through the pressure relief valve, before entering the heating system. This arrangement has worked for years. Thanks for any input.
 
  #4  
Old 12-24-00, 08:02 AM
fjrachel
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Have you checked the psi reducing valve to see if it is clogged with debri. There is a screen at the inlet side of it. I have seen them clog up and not allow water back into the system, causing it to become air bound. Or the reducing valve may not be opening at all. Was a by-pass installed on the system to by-pass the reducing valve?
 
  #5  
Old 12-24-00, 09:57 AM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
I starts to like like the valves being clogged. The psi reducing valve is solid. There is no screen on it, so I can't do a visual inspection. There is no by-pass whatsoever. I will probably try to do my own by-pass using a garden hose into one of the drain outlet as an emergency resort, to get the water into the system. Thanks so much for your response.
 
  #6  
Old 12-24-00, 10:24 AM
fjrachel
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
No, there is no visual way to see if the valve is clogged. You must remove it. On the reducing valve there may be a by-pass handle. Lift it straight up.
 
  #7  
Old 12-26-00, 10:16 PM
Guest
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
fjrachel,

Thanks for responding to my posts. Just to let you know that the by-pass worked. I connected a garden hose from the washer's water line to one of the drain outlet of the heating system pipes. Once the water filled the system, my heater came back to life, just in time for Christmas. It gets pretty cold here in Massachusetts this week. The psi reducing valve is not completely clogged. Enough water still pass through to keep the system running for months, if not years. However, I'll fix it this summer.

Regards,
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: