Armstrong Ultra V Tech 80 - Furnace not firing up
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Armstrong Ultra V Tech 80 - Furnace not firing up
I have an Armstrong Ultra V Tech 80 gas furnace that is not firing up. This is what I have done so far to mitigate the problem after reading all the post.
There is power and gas to the furnace. I have inspected and cleaned the rubber hose that is attached to the pressure switch and I guess the fan. I have made sure the digital thermostat is in working condition. Is there any one out there who can help?
I also checked the so called code light that is supposed to flash x number of times to indicate of a possible problem, the light does not light up, as if there is no power. The reason I am saying that there is power, because when I manually start the blower fan, it works and spits out cold air from the vents.
There is power and gas to the furnace. I have inspected and cleaned the rubber hose that is attached to the pressure switch and I guess the fan. I have made sure the digital thermostat is in working condition. Is there any one out there who can help?
I also checked the so called code light that is supposed to flash x number of times to indicate of a possible problem, the light does not light up, as if there is no power. The reason I am saying that there is power, because when I manually start the blower fan, it works and spits out cold air from the vents.
Last edited by mrpatelr; 09-18-11 at 11:25 AM.
#2
Check to be sure that you have 24 VAC to the "R" terminal, and that yiou have 24 VAC to the "W" terminal when the thermostat is calling for heat. Does the inducer motor turn on and come up to speed at that point ---it should.
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Thanks for the reply SeattlePioneer,
What is 24 VAC? Do you mean 24 Volt AC? If thats the case there are two Pink coloured coated wire coming in. One of them is from the Thermostat and other is from the electrical junction box, both of these end up on the circuit board. I suppose I need the Volt meter to check these voltages. Question? what if it does have 24 V, then what do I do?
What is 24 VAC? Do you mean 24 Volt AC? If thats the case there are two Pink coloured coated wire coming in. One of them is from the Thermostat and other is from the electrical junction box, both of these end up on the circuit board. I suppose I need the Volt meter to check these voltages. Question? what if it does have 24 V, then what do I do?
Last edited by mrpatelr; 09-18-11 at 04:10 PM.
#4
YES, AC
check and confirm the 24V between R and C at the control board in the furnace. Next verify 24V between W and C with the stat calling for heat. Report back your results and we can then determine the next step based on your results.
check and confirm the 24V between R and C at the control board in the furnace. Next verify 24V between W and C with the stat calling for heat. Report back your results and we can then determine the next step based on your results.
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No the inducer motor doesn't start. What I have noticed is when I remove the bottom cover, it has a black safety switch that cuts of the power to the furnace, but when I press that switch manually, there is a very low humming noise from some where in the furnace.
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Do you think my Blower Control Board is hooped? As I said earlier that I don't have the LED status light lighting up. Two things - first it tell me that there is no current from the board to the Gas valve, or the the Gas Valve is hooped. Please help
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Can you please suggest how I can make sure that the board is bad? It would be nice to make sure and then go buy a new one. I mean where do I connect or put my connectors of voltmeter to check the voltage. I am not very good at this, and I don't want to short any thing.
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I took a crash course from a fellow worker at work on how to use the multimeter. I came home a check the voltage across the board and other things. It looks like the wire that feeds the 120 V to the Gas Valve is fine, but the voltage that come out of the same port and feed the induction motor indicates only 3.8V. I read the spec label on the induction motor and it says that it requires 120 to operate. In order to make sure, I jumped the connection and fed 120 V to the induction motor from the board itself and sure enough the fan to the exhaust worked fine. After all said and done I am leaning towards bad Gas valve that shows that it taking in 120 V but spitting out 3.8. This may be the reason why LED light is not functional. Last but no least, excuse my ignorance regarding electricity, it did sound really bad.
#13
You should get 120 VAC to turn on the inducer motor when you have 24 VAC applied to the W terminal. If you don't, replace the circuit board.
You shou never have 120 VAC applied to the gas valve. The gas valve is only switched on later in the ignition process after the inducer motot comes up to speed and the hot surface ignitor glows white hot.
After the HSI has 15-25 seconds to heat up, you should have 24 VAC applied to the gas valve to turn the gas on, which is then lit off the HSI.
You shou never have 120 VAC applied to the gas valve. The gas valve is only switched on later in the ignition process after the inducer motot comes up to speed and the hot surface ignitor glows white hot.
After the HSI has 15-25 seconds to heat up, you should have 24 VAC applied to the gas valve to turn the gas on, which is then lit off the HSI.
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Your all points are valid. As I said earlier in my post that I do get 24VAC at R and W terminal when thermostat calls for heat. There is a live wire from the board goes to the Gas Valve in C3, and from the same port there is a live wire that comes out and feed the inducer motor. When the furnace is powered on I don't get the 120V to power up the inducer motor. On 22 of Sept I had a technician come and had a look at it, but to me he looked lost. He wanted to do trial and error thing at my expense. He wasn't sure if it was the board or the gas valve. He was basically relying on my opinion. I had to tell him not to come again. On 26 Sept I had so called Expert come and have a look. He too wasn't able to pin point the problem. He is leaning towards the gas valve and will be coming in tomorrow to replace it.
This afternoon I was reading over some literature on the valve SV9520H8513 and it mentions a few step that I could do to trouble shoot. I came home and as I was getting ready to check some voltages, I turned the furnace ON and to my surprise the Inducer motor clicked and whole nine yards. I was thrilled.......but after a minute or so, I manually turned the gas valve off and ON to see of the furnace restarts, and it did not. It is in the same stage as it was before. DEAD. Can any one explain this?
This afternoon I was reading over some literature on the valve SV9520H8513 and it mentions a few step that I could do to trouble shoot. I came home and as I was getting ready to check some voltages, I turned the furnace ON and to my surprise the Inducer motor clicked and whole nine yards. I was thrilled.......but after a minute or so, I manually turned the gas valve off and ON to see of the furnace restarts, and it did not. It is in the same stage as it was before. DEAD. Can any one explain this?
#15
You have a Honeywell "smart" valve.... Poor design and high failure rate. You are stuck with it due to your furnace design. I agree it is the valve. We were not aware that your furnace used this gas valve as it DOES have 120V going to it. Most typical design gas valves without a microprocessor in them will never see 120V only 24V. Had you mentioned the valve PN or that is was a "smart" (dumb) valve our answers would have been completely different.
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my armstrong ulta v tech 80 furnace will not fire the burners
please help me i am having some issues with my furnace it is a armstrong ultra v tech 80 the ignitor lights up but the burners do not fire up have replaced the ignitor and the gas valve and am stuck