Pilot sensor hb smith gb100w

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Old 10-05-11, 05:43 PM
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Pilot sensor hb smith gb100w

I have a HB Smith GB:100w boiler. I went to turn it on and there wasn't any flame. I installed a new ignitor and still had nothing. I have been reading forums and they seem to say something about a pilot light sensor. I am able to see it on the diagram but I don't see it on the boiler. Any help would be appreciated. I believe this is the problem. Thanks in advance, Jim
 
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Old 10-05-11, 10:03 PM
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Turn the thermostat down and remove the front cover of the boiler.

Turn the thermostat up to call for heat and describe in detail the sequence of events that you observe happening. You may need to do this several times before you observe all the details.

The accuracy of any help we can provide is determined by the accuracy aqnd completeness of the detail you provide.
 
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Old 10-06-11, 10:03 AM
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I turned it down and already had cover off boiler. Turned up and calling for heat. Boiler clicks on and damper opens. A minute or so and the gas valve turns on for a few seconds and then turns off. Nothing else is happening. The thermostat is still calling for heat. Last year I had a problem with the aquastat controller.. I replaced it,the transformer and relay switch. Every season I have to change the ignitor. My supplier had a different one and had to splice with old connector. I ordered 3 of the right ones and installed it. Something is not letting the ignitor heat up. Thanks for any help !!!
 
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Old 10-06-11, 12:09 PM
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Plumbing supply guy said if ignitor doesn't get hot enough to light it has nothing to do with the sensor. So what would make the ignitor not light then??? Any suggestions please ???
 
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Old 10-06-11, 04:09 PM
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I take it the ignitor is not heating up at all?


After the dam
 
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Old 10-06-11, 04:18 PM
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The operating manual for the boiler is at:

http://www.smithboiler.com/modules/l...?litFileID=901


After the damper opens, the ignition module should switch on the voltage to heat up the ignitor. Does the ignitor get hot at all?


Measure the voltage being applied to the 24 V terminal on the Honeywell ignition control. When the damper opens it should switch 24 VAC to the Honeywell ignition control, which should switch on the 120 VAC to heat up the ignitor in turn.

You probably have weither a bad ignition control or a bad damper control. Usually the Honeywell ignition control is highly reliable and the damper is subject to failure, but you need to identify which is failing to switch on.

If the damper is bad, the simple thing to do is to wire the damper permanently open and then bypass the switch which is supposed to close when the damper closes.

Replacing one unreliable damper with another is typically not worthwhile, in my opinion. But you need to be certain that the damper is wired permanently open.
 
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Old 10-06-11, 06:12 PM
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No,the ignitor is not heating up at all.When the damper opens the ignition module doesn't switch on the voltage to turn on the ignitor. How do I test to see if its getting voltage ? What setting on the meter and how please ? Thanks again. Jim F.
 
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Old 10-07-11, 07:35 AM
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Thanks for the link. The damper is opening so we can eliminate that. It is a Fenwal automatic ignition system that is installed on the boiler. I need help in how to test that ignition system. Thanks Jim F.
 
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Old 10-07-11, 07:47 AM
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When the damper opens, it should operate a switch that turns on the voltage to operate the ignition control board. That switch may be defective.

So you need to test to see if it is switching on the voltage when it opens.
 
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Old 10-07-11, 09:42 AM
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Do you know what the switch is called and where it is located? There is a roll out switch and spill switch. I do not see any switch for the damper except for that box (damper control) that powers that. Thanks, Jim F.
 
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Old 10-07-11, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bigjimsayrevill View Post
Thanks for the link. The damper is opening so we can eliminate that. It is a Fenwal automatic ignition system that is installed on the boiler. I need help in how to test that ignition system. Thanks Jim F.

On the contrary, the damper is the likely problem. You need to be able to read the circuit diagram.

For safety reasons, it's essential that the damper open before the boiler turns on. To test for that, there is a switch that makes only when the damper is open.

When that switch closes, it turns on the 24 VAC to the ignition module. You need to check and see if that switch is closing when the damper opens.
 
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Old 10-18-11, 12:51 PM
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Pilot sensor hb smith gb100w

I have changed the thermostat,rollout switch.spill switch and the vent damper to no avail. The system goes through all the motions but still doesn't heat up the ignitor !!!Any suggestions would be appreciated!!! Thanks in advance, Big Jim
 
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Old 10-18-11, 07:36 PM
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Mmmmm. I think you have proved that random parts changing is not an effective diagnostic or repair method.


The manual for the boiler is at:


http://www.smithboiler.com/modules/l...?litFileID=901


The circuit diagram for the boiler is on page 14 of the manual, although this diagram shows a Honeywell ignition module.

You need to use an AC voltmeter to trace the voltage to see where it is stopping. Connect one test lead to the C terminal and trace the voltage from the R terminal through the high limit switch and thermal cutout switch, through the switch in the vent damper and through the R (red) wire coming from the vent damper that goes to your Fenwall ignition control. The voltage is probably stopping someplace along that circuit.

It's possible you have voltage to the ignition control and there a defect there --- report back what you find.
 
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Old 10-20-11, 09:00 AM
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Sorry to reply back so late but my internet was down. I believe mine is on page 13. I have a Fenwal 05-31 ignition control. Do I follow your directions the same as on page 14 ? Stupid question but do I do this with the power to furnace on? Thermostat on or off ? Might not make sense to ask but that is why I am here to get advice and learn.
Thank again , Big Jim



Originally Posted by SeattlePioneer View Post
Mmmmm. I think you have proved that random parts changing is not an effective diagnostic or repair method.


The manual for the boiler is at:


http://www.smithboiler.com/modules/l...?litFileID=901


The circuit diagram for the boiler is on page 14 of the manual, although this diagram shows a Honeywell ignition module.

You need to use an AC voltmeter to trace the voltage to see where it is stopping. Connect one test lead to the C terminal and trace the voltage from the R terminal through the high limit switch and thermal cutout switch, through the switch in the vent damper and through the R (red) wire coming from the vent damper that goes to your Fenwall ignition control. The voltage is probably stopping someplace along that circuit.

It's possible you have voltage to the ignition control and there a defect there --- report back what you find.
 

Last edited by bigjimsayrevill; 10-20-11 at 09:01 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 10-20-11, 09:44 AM
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Page 13-- oh yeah. It does list the Fenwall board there. The connections are the same.


When testing you need the power on and the thermostat calling for heat. You should be able to "walk the circuit" from the R terminal to the Th terminal connected with the red wire, checking for 24 VAC to determine where you may be losing that power.
 
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Old 10-20-11, 11:36 AM
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Sorry to be asking so many questions but what setting on the volt meter do I use ? Also do I put the neg on the c terminal or the positive one ?




Originally Posted by SeattlePioneer View Post
Page 13-- oh yeah. It does list the Fenwall board there. The connections are the same.


When testing you need the power on and the thermostat calling for heat. You should be able to "walk the circuit" from the R terminal to the Th terminal connected with the red wire, checking for 24 VAC to determine where you may be losing that power.
 
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Old 10-20-11, 12:02 PM
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Since you are measuring an AC voltage, it doesn't matter which lead goes where.

You need to set your voltmeter to read AC voltages. Any ranger greater than 30 volts will work.
 
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Old 10-20-11, 03:04 PM
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I did as you said but the only readings I get are 1. I tried different settings but to no avail. I even changed the battery. Any suggestions what I am doing wrong ??? Thanks again, Big Jim




Originally Posted by SeattlePioneer View Post
Since you are measuring an AC voltage, it doesn't matter which lead goes where.

You need to set your voltmeter to read AC voltages. Any ranger greater than 30 volts will work.
 
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