Bryant gas furnance Model # 395CAV048110AJJA won t start?

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Old 10-11-11, 08:46 PM
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Bryant gas furnance Model # 395CAV048110AJJA won t start?

The a/c turns on. The heater attempted to turn on, the igniter (glow plug) lit after the inducer motor started but stopped. I took out the heat sensor and cleaned it as I have done in the past. However, now nothing works. If the heat sensor was bad would the furnance still atttempt to come on? Is there something in there that would lock the furnance down? How do I unlock it? thanks in advance.
 
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Old 10-11-11, 09:49 PM
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If the heat sensor was bad would the furnance still atttempt to come on?
It should, but then a code would appear if it the sensor was bad. Any codes?

Silly question but the cover needs to be on for the furnace to run. Or hold the button down manually. Have you done this?

Mike NJ
 
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Old 10-11-11, 11:00 PM
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<< The a/c turns on. The heater attempted to turn on, the igniter (glow plug) lit after the inducer motor started but stopped. >>



Good example of an ambiguous statement. There no real way to know exactly what is happening.
 
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Old 10-12-11, 07:01 AM
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Perhaps some wires are touching each other in the tstat or the furnace or most likely ur circuit board may be bad. Does the glow plug aka HSI still attempt to glow or not at all?
 
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Old 10-12-11, 04:17 PM
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The heater won t start at all now. I have 24Volts at W and C on the heater panel. The induction motor won t start. However, when I jump the ST1 spots on the bottom of the panel board, it turns on the induction motor, glow plug lights, and then the motor test itself for two speeds. Yes, I did hold the door button in. Also, i checked for 110 volts and 24 volts on the other side of the transformer which was positive. Didn't mean to be ambiguous. Any suggestions?
 
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Old 10-12-11, 04:21 PM
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Follow up question

Is there anyway of diagonising if the circuit panel is bad?
 
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Old 10-12-11, 05:02 PM
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A furnace doesn't just light up and provide heat. A sequence of events occurs which results in heat if everything is working properly.

Having voltage to the R terminal is the beginning of that sequence. When the thermostat closes the next step is to have 24 VAC at the W terminal. When the W terminal is energized, the next event should be the inducer motor starting.

You know the inducer motor is OK since the self test proves that. Since the W terminal is energized and the inducer motor isn't starting, you have a bad circuit board that needs to be replaced.

Do you have a furnace with a plain circuit board and many individual wires plugged into it? Later model had an ignition control board with plugs that made many connections at once which would be easier to replace.
 
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Old 10-12-11, 05:36 PM
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Thank you, I have the control board with many wires connecting at once on the top. Any suggestion on a site to order the board? Also, I have the model number is there a part number some where on the board or a reference number so I order the correct part.
 
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Old 10-12-11, 06:24 PM
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There should be a model number for the ignition control listed on the part you have. You will probably get a part with a somewhat different part number, since the parts are upgraded/changed fairly often.

I have no recommendations on parts.
 
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Old 10-17-11, 07:57 PM
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I purchased a new board installed and this one has a led trouble shooting light. I attempt to do the self test and the status light just repeatly blinks with no results. I tried hooking the thermostat up and the fan for the heater comes on the light blinks one long and then three short. Two things I don t understand, 1) for a 90% efficient furnances clip JW9 jumper wire. How do I know if my heater is a 90% efficient furnance and does in mean to cut that small resistor. 2) set blower off delay dip switch, I see two very tiny rocker switches but I don t understand what position they should be in. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Last edited by Eddie1; 10-17-11 at 08:13 PM.
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Old 10-17-11, 09:29 PM
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Post the make and model of the contol board so we can help.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 10-17-11, 11:28 PM
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A CAV model furnace is an 80% furnace not a 90% furnace, which would have PVC plastic vent pipe.

A 3-1 diagnostic code indicates that the pressure switch isn't closing, which implies that the heat exchanger or venting system is plugged.


The diagnostic code should begin with the short flashes to identify the first digit and the long flash to identify the second digit. So the code ought to be 3-1, not 1-3.
 
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Old 10-18-11, 07:28 PM
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furnance won t start

the old board was part# HH84AA016 the new board is an ICM281 replacement module. Just an added note when I jump the red with the white wire at the panel with the thermostat off today the induction motor started up but stopped. Any ideas? I am all over the place now and started to wonder if I am just replacing parts without a good anaylsis of the system. the new panel does have an LED light.

I cleaned out the chimney which was clogged, The the flue pipe was clear. How to I get into the furnace area to see if the heat exchanger is blocked in anyway as you suggested.

I tried to jump the siwtched but it still didn t start up.

THe chimney is clear and I have a chimney cap on but there were extremly high winds recently.
 

Last edited by Eddie1; 10-18-11 at 07:36 PM. Reason: more information
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Old 10-18-11, 07:54 PM
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The manual for your neww board is at:

http://www.patriot-supply.com/files/icm281_ag.pdf

Unfortunately, you don't have a Carrier original equipment board and the manual isn't very specific about the sequence of operation of the board.


What happens when you try the self test procedure? That should work as described in the manual.
 
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Old 10-18-11, 08:09 PM
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THe fan blower comes on but nothing else beofre or after that. There is a LED light that comes on with one long and three short blinks.
 
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Old 10-19-11, 01:55 PM
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when I test the board the light flashes three times and the fan blower motor come on. On one occasion when I was jumping the the thermostat wire at the heater panel and the induction fan came on for a couple seconds but I slipped off the contacts.
I have 24 volts on one side of the rounded switch attached near the induction motor but nothing on the other side or switch with a reset on it. the seset feels flimsy in the down position. i jumped both but nothing happens any suggestion. I am all over the place need to get focus. thanks
 
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Old 10-22-11, 08:23 PM
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the cycle worked as follows: the fan came on, the induction motor came own the ignitor cme on and the burners lit, The test didn t work. I cycled the unit a couple times and it was fine, I justt tried tonight and the fan came on,, the inductions motor came on and then both shut down, Any ideas Should I just throw in the towel and call some one. thanks
 
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Old 10-22-11, 08:59 PM
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Check continuity between the pressure switch. With unit off and unit running. What are your readings? ( Rounded switch at inducer motor)

Check continuity at switch with little button. What is the reading?

Mike NJ
 
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Old 10-23-11, 04:17 AM
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there is no continuity when the unit is off but there is contuniuty when the unit is running.

A side note when i attempt to run the new board thru the test mode i get rapid flashing on the led light and nothing happens. I disonnected the common and jumped as indicated.

Furthermore when the unit is attempting to run fan motor, induction motor the led, light blinks 3 x. also, to complicate things last night at one point the heater fired up and worked great but wouldn t fire up a second time.

the old board would have the induction motor come on, the igniter, and then the fan motor. However, the new board the fan comes on first, the induction motor and when it comes on the igniter. I am really confused. thanks for any help.
 
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Old 10-23-11, 05:41 AM
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I have not looked up the model boards you have until know. IMO that new board you have does not cross reference with the old. When I type in your old board no replacement module comes up or is listed.

It may be the board is incorrect. Why you did not get the same board, I dont know.

Examples,

Carrier Circuit Board CESO110057-02 [CESO11005702] - $163.00 : Shortys HVAC Supplies, Short on Price, Long on Quality! - Indianapolis, IN

American HVAC Parts Furnace Control Circuit Board (BDP, Bryant Carrier)=

Carrier OEM Circuit Board HH84AA016 | eBay


NEW OEM Carrier HH84AA016 Furnace Control Board | eBay
Mike NJ
 
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Old 10-23-11, 10:19 AM
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I gave them the part number at the supply house and they said this was an updated model for the board. Anyway, a side note since I tested the round disc type valve (presuure valve) like you suggested when i put the terminals back on and after I sent the message I put the thermostat on and it fired up three times since then. The last time it fired up in the correct oreder, ind motor, ingnitier and fan motor. Do you think this is a temp fix and I should order the exact part replacement. I don t have a clue about circuit boards but this one is nice with a fuse in the center of the board. thanks Mike for all your help.
 
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Old 10-23-11, 07:11 PM
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I checked with the sites you gave me and it shows this as the correct replacement board. My furnance fired up at least five times today. The only difference is the fan runs much longer after the burners turn off, about ten minutes. I am afraid to touch anything since it appears okay now. any other advice would be appreciated. thanks mike NJ
 
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Old 10-23-11, 07:48 PM
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I think possibly you have a bad connection where you did the testing on the switches.

Pulling then off and on may have made them better.

Thats how it seems to me from what your posts say.

As far as the fan running longer, I dont know. How long did the other board make the fan run?

I am sure there is a jumper or dip switch on the board that changes this. Look in the manual.

Just read this in your manual:

Set blower off delay. Blower off delay DIP switch SW1 [SIZE=1]
is found near the right-hand corner of the board (see Figure 1). [/SIZE]

Mike NJ
 
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Old 10-24-11, 08:03 PM
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Thanks very much, is saw two dip switches nect to each other and they have 90, 180, 240 etc. was afraid to adjust them since everything is working thank again, maybe I will change these and hope nothing bad happens, thank again, your help was greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 10-25-11, 07:27 PM
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Can someone explain how the pressure switch ( the round disc next to the ind motor) works.
 
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Old 10-25-11, 07:46 PM
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The switch is normally open. When the draft inducer starts it pulls in the contacts and completes the circuit. If it does not pull in or is faulty the igniter will not light.

Sometimes the switches are good but the hose going to the switch gets disconnected or splits.

Also the inducer motors may get weak and not have enough CFM to pull the switch in.

Basically its pulled in by negative pressure.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 10-26-11, 10:03 AM
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thanks, the reason i asked my heater started working after I tapped it lightly and did work for a day but now back to square one, the ind motor comes on but the ignition does not light.
 
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Old 10-26-11, 10:17 AM
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Try bypassing it? Hook the two leads together of the pressure switch?

This would be a temp fix to just see if it runs. Its a saftey feature. If you run without it and the inducer motor ever failed you can be seriously injured or death can occur. CO poisoning......

Mike NJ
 
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Old 10-27-11, 12:31 PM
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thanks I appreciate that warning and understand. I took the pressure switch off and tested it and ensure that it was opening and closing. I reinstatted it and it has worked great for two days now. I was wondering if I could open up and look inside the furnance at the heat exchanger to make sure it is clean and nothing in there that would effect the switch. I did check the chimney and flue pipe which is clear. During the summer I checked the chimney and took out some sticks and debri that must have blowndown the chimney with the heavy winds. I do have a chimney cap on and everthing is clear. Thanks for all your help.
 
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