Goodman Dependable 92 not igniting

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  #1  
Old 10-28-11, 10:21 AM
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Goodman Dependable 92 not igniting

I have a Goodman Dependable 92 that will not start. It is a model number "GHPN 080-4 Rev A".
The ignitor doesn't glow. I ordered a new one and it doesn't glow either. While I was waiting for my new ignitor to get here I plugged the old one directly in to an outlet and it lit up. Does this mean it is good?
While using a circuit tester (light) plugged into the wire connection for the ignitor it blinks for approximately (.5 sec) at approximately 13 seconds in to the start-up attempt. Also there is a small red light on the circuit board that comes on while attempting start-up. Does this mean It's no good?
Thanks in advance!
Duane
 
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  #2  
Old 10-28-11, 12:00 PM
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Yes, the old ignitor is good.

The most common reason for the ignitor to fail to heat up is that the pressure switch isn't closing because of a defect in the heat exchanger or venting system.

Connect one side of your voltage tester to the C terminal of the circuit board or the sheet metal of the furnace. Check both terminals on the pressure switch. If only one side lights the voltage tester, the pressure switch isn't closing.

Describe the test you perform and the results.
 
  #3  
Old 10-28-11, 06:33 PM
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I'm not sure what you mean when you say "pressure switch". Is it the Air Flow Pressure Switch? If it is I do not know how to Identify it. So I was not able to run another test.
I forgot to mention that at about the 25 second mark of the cycle the gas coupler clicks and I hear a hiss for about a second or two and then it clicks and quits hissing.
 
  #4  
Old 10-28-11, 08:32 PM
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I cleared the drain hose. Took a few others off and blew in them to make sure they were clear and now the gas valve doesn't click and hiss... My led status light now blinks 3 times, rests and then blinks 3 times again.
I see that blowing on the tube to the pressure switch may be causing this error. Now I know what pressure switch you were talking about.
I think I may need to turn it over to a pro. Thanks SeattlePioneer!
 

Last edited by Duane2312; 10-28-11 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 10-28-11, 09:24 PM
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You need to suck lightly on the tube to the pressure switch, and you should hear it click. test the leads on the switch as pioneer described. If its not closing when the unit attemps to start then the igniter will not light.

Just for test purpose you can possibly jump it out but its a safty device and by no means should you run the unit without it. Its just to see if the unit will fire.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 10-28-11, 11:18 PM
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Personally, I think it's a mistake to encourage people to suck on pressure switches. It's easy to damage the rubber diaphragm in the pressure switch or put the pressure switch off it's calibration.

Better to just test electrically to see if the switch is open or not.
 
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Old 10-29-11, 07:18 AM
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I did test the pressure switch... and I think I damaged it. (I found some pictures online so I knew what it looked like).

I did the volt test (after blowing & sucking on switch hose) and only one side gave me a reading of approximately 30 volts (not digital). The other side gave me "0". I tried bypassing it and all I got was a 2 blink error code (pressure switch fault). Nothing at all started.

I won't be calling anyone before Monday, so I'm gonna keep plugging away on it 'til then. I think I'll change the pressure switch next.

I'll post any progress. Thanks to both you guys!
 
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Old 10-29-11, 07:58 AM
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Hi

Dont know if you have the manual. Not sure if this is yours. This unit shows two pressure switches.

http://www.acdirect.com/xcart/images...cts/IO-244.pdf


Yeah dont know about the sucking on the pressure switch causing damage. I test basic continuity that way, so who knows.

It may be stuck in the closed position, and I believe from reading it may need to start in the open position, then close after so many seconds from start up.



Mike NJ

Thought it may help.

Mike NJ
 
  #9  
Old 10-29-11, 09:39 AM
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I did a test with a light meter again. Only one of the terminals light up. I took the pressure switch off and looked for a way to take it apart and with minimal effort the side cover came off. I guess It will have to be replaced for sure now.
I don't understand the "bypassing" not working.

When I mentioned in post #4 that I cleared the drain hose I should have mentioned that it was blocked.
 
  #10  
Old 10-29-11, 09:52 AM
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In my experience, when a pressure switch fails to close, a defective pressure switch is the problem maybe 2% of the time. It's a waste of time to tinker with the pressure switch as a way of repairing the furnace.

The problem is almost always a defect in the venting system (including any drains on condensing furnaces) or heat exchanger.

But people just can't resist replacing perfectly good pressure switches, and then discovering that the problem is still there.

If 2% of such problems are the pressure switch and a new pressure switch costs $60 and takes a week to get, then people are spending $3000 to buy parts and the furnace is out of service for fifty weeks before a bad pressure switch actually fixes a problem.

The only thing people should test on a pressure switch is whether it is closing or not.

What SHOULD be tested is the pressure the pressure being applied to the pressure switch, but that requires a manometer that can measure down to a low level, a specialized piece of test gear. Unfortunately, a LOT of repair people don't bother checking the pressure and make foolish decisions to replace pressure switches as well.
 
  #11  
Old 11-02-11, 04:22 PM
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Red face It Works!

I first want to thank you two guys for the help!

I'm gonna say it was the Condensation Hose that had filled that caused the original shut down. Had I stopped fiddling with hoses after clearing it I probably wouldn't have ruined the Pressure Switch. Thanks for the education.

It didn't start at first after replacing the switch, but after a couple of tries and resets, it fired right up.
 
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