pressure switch problem
#1
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pressure switch problem
I have the same problem on my condensing furnace. make a manometer out of 2 feet of clear plastic tubing make a loop in it and put coloured water in it about 2 inches deep. connect one end to the induction blower and start furnace and check the pressure . Mine was supposed to be 2.5 inches of water (the difference height of the water in the manometer. But I only got 1.7 in and the press switch is rated at 1.6 so it is marginal whether it closes or not therefore it intermittent. Our problem maybe the ind blower.
The reason it helps to take of the tube to the fire box is that the pressure there is about -.1 in and the blower is -2.5 (in mine) the difference is -2.4. When you disconnect the firebox you get an extra .1 in of pressure differential across the switch.
i hope I am making sense .
keep us posted.
I have not changed my ind fan because I cannot see why it should have lowered its suction.
All pipes are clear of nests and debris. Even if I take all the pipes off the suction is only 1.7in.
Hugh
The reason it helps to take of the tube to the fire box is that the pressure there is about -.1 in and the blower is -2.5 (in mine) the difference is -2.4. When you disconnect the firebox you get an extra .1 in of pressure differential across the switch.
i hope I am making sense .
keep us posted.
I have not changed my ind fan because I cannot see why it should have lowered its suction.
All pipes are clear of nests and debris. Even if I take all the pipes off the suction is only 1.7in.
Hugh
#2
It is unlikely that the problem is with the inducer motor or pressure switch.
About 95% of the time when a pressure switch fails to close its because something in the heat exchanger, venting system or drainage system is plugged up.
About 95% of the time when a pressure switch fails to close its because something in the heat exchanger, venting system or drainage system is plugged up.
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Thanks . The venting pipes are clear and even when removed the pressure is only -2.00 in. I am not sure why a blockage in the drainage system would decrease the suction pressure. Does much air come through that drain to the fan ??
I would like to remove the fan and see if the impeller is damaged although is that likely.
My differential temp across the furnace is 45 deg F ( 125 out and 80 in) which is within spec (40 to 70) just with the main blower at med low speed.
Does that tell you anything regarding possible heat exchange blockage.
Is it difficult to inspect the inside of the heat exchanger ?
Really appreciate your help.
this thread was meant to be a reply to the posting about pressure switch only works when one side disconnected or some such name.
I would like to remove the fan and see if the impeller is damaged although is that likely.
My differential temp across the furnace is 45 deg F ( 125 out and 80 in) which is within spec (40 to 70) just with the main blower at med low speed.
Does that tell you anything regarding possible heat exchange blockage.
Is it difficult to inspect the inside of the heat exchanger ?
Really appreciate your help.
this thread was meant to be a reply to the posting about pressure switch only works when one side disconnected or some such name.
#4
Hello Hugh5,
I know you have confidence in your measurements and inspections, but I do not. In my experience, a homebrew water manometer and a DIY inspection might, but is unlikely to produce accurate results.
You've taken your shot at it but it hasn't produced a solution. Personally, I can't offer additional help. The problem you have is likely to require the judgment and experience of a good repairman --- or at least that's my opinion.
Good luck though ---- perhaps you will surprise me.
I know you have confidence in your measurements and inspections, but I do not. In my experience, a homebrew water manometer and a DIY inspection might, but is unlikely to produce accurate results.
You've taken your shot at it but it hasn't produced a solution. Personally, I can't offer additional help. The problem you have is likely to require the judgment and experience of a good repairman --- or at least that's my opinion.
Good luck though ---- perhaps you will surprise me.
#5
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this my 3 rd reply and I cannot understand where my other replies are.
I have the same problem and have done some research . Please reply to this and then I'' tell you all about it again
Hugh
I have the same problem and have done some research . Please reply to this and then I'' tell you all about it again
Hugh
Last edited by hvactechfw; 11-01-11 at 04:27 PM. Reason: moved from another thread... http://www.doityourself.com/forum/gas-oil-home-heating-furnaces/458532-furnace-works-only-when-ve-pressure-tubing-disconnected-pressure-switch.html
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Oh Sorry I have obviously done something wrong. I wanted to help someone who has the same problem as I have and as I am new to forums I must have pressed the wrong button. Sorry. How do I find my thread and get it into the 'furnace only works ..."
Please help if you can
Please help if you can
#10
your rudimentary device that you made and called a manometer is not sufficient enough to check the pressure correctly. It must be exact to measure inches of water column properly.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ga...h-problem.html
Please note seattle pioneer's reply's. Thank you.
I will be moving all of your and my comments to the other thread (linked above) as they are not applicable in this thread.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ga...h-problem.html
Please note seattle pioneer's reply's. Thank you.
I will be moving all of your and my comments to the other thread (linked above) as they are not applicable in this thread.
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Hi Forum moderator
Thanks, now I have found Seattle pioneer's comments on this thread that I accidentally set up I understand what you were saying.
I feel as if I have annoyed not only yourself but Seattle Pioneer as well.
Hugh5
Thanks, now I have found Seattle pioneer's comments on this thread that I accidentally set up I understand what you were saying.
I feel as if I have annoyed not only yourself but Seattle Pioneer as well.
Hugh5
#12
you have not annoyed us, but we do want to give good information. I apologize if you did not know that Seattle had posted comments to your thread, but he did and I stand by what he said.
Hello Hugh5,
I know you have confidence in your measurements and inspections, but I do not. In my experience, a homebrew water manometer and a DIY inspection might, but is unlikely to produce accurate results.
You've taken your shot at it but it hasn't produced a solution. Personally, I can't offer additional help. The problem you have is likely to require the judgment and experience of a good repairman --- or at least that's my opinion.
Good luck though ---- perhaps you will surprise me.
I know you have confidence in your measurements and inspections, but I do not. In my experience, a homebrew water manometer and a DIY inspection might, but is unlikely to produce accurate results.
You've taken your shot at it but it hasn't produced a solution. Personally, I can't offer additional help. The problem you have is likely to require the judgment and experience of a good repairman --- or at least that's my opinion.
Good luck though ---- perhaps you will surprise me.
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Hi Seattle pioneer
Is it possible that you could be the experienced technician to help me . I will do whatever tests you would do in the field and report back to you the results. i am prepared to buy or borrow a manometer .
Is it possible that you could be the experienced technician to help me . I will do whatever tests you would do in the field and report back to you the results. i am prepared to buy or borrow a manometer .
#14
Unless the inducer motor is obviously laboring or not coming up to speed, has broken or plugged fan blades and such, it would be rare for the inducer motor to cause the problem.
A large majority of the time the pressure switch isn't closing because of something plugged up or defective in the venting or drainage system or heat exchanger.
A large majority of the time the pressure switch isn't closing because of something plugged up or defective in the venting or drainage system or heat exchanger.
#16
Hugh, I have asked you more than once to use your thread for the problem you are having with your furnace. Please stop hijacking this thread!
Last edited by hvactechfw; 11-04-11 at 04:07 PM.
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pressure switch problem
I hope I am on the right thread.
I removed the ind fan and ran it on the workbench. It spins very easily by hand and continues to spin very well with no sign of friction. Under power it sounds very quiet.
I measured the pressure or rather suction and it measured 0.5". I then blocked the intake and the suction went to 2.5". This is normal for a fan to have less suction with a wide open intake versus blocked intake. Now 2.5" is the specified pressure when on the furnace according to the manual when it is no where near blocked so I do not think this impeller is pulling as hard as it should or the suction would have been much higher than the 2.5 when blocked The impeller blades do have a thin coating of dirt but I cannot get at them to clean them unless I split the casing which I did not do.
Next I tried to remove the trap but without success so I poured water into it and out came a lot of scale so I kept flushing till till it was clear.
Now i put everything back together and remeasured the suction at the ind fan and it was the same as before.1.7" ( the spec calls for 2.5" ) The pressure switch does work at 1.6" so my furnace works but I dont trust it for the winter with only 0.1" to spare.
what are your thoughts ?
I removed the ind fan and ran it on the workbench. It spins very easily by hand and continues to spin very well with no sign of friction. Under power it sounds very quiet.
I measured the pressure or rather suction and it measured 0.5". I then blocked the intake and the suction went to 2.5". This is normal for a fan to have less suction with a wide open intake versus blocked intake. Now 2.5" is the specified pressure when on the furnace according to the manual when it is no where near blocked so I do not think this impeller is pulling as hard as it should or the suction would have been much higher than the 2.5 when blocked The impeller blades do have a thin coating of dirt but I cannot get at them to clean them unless I split the casing which I did not do.
Next I tried to remove the trap but without success so I poured water into it and out came a lot of scale so I kept flushing till till it was clear.
Now i put everything back together and remeasured the suction at the ind fan and it was the same as before.1.7" ( the spec calls for 2.5" ) The pressure switch does work at 1.6" so my furnace works but I dont trust it for the winter with only 0.1" to spare.
what are your thoughts ?
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I have changed my exhaust to 45 deg bends instead of 90s and the blower pressure is now up to 1.8" and I have now confirmed the switch operates at 1.4" so i am happy that I have sufficient pressure to avoin any more problems. thanks for all your help.
ye for now. till my next problem.Hugh
ye for now. till my next problem.Hugh