Riello BF3 in a Kerr furnace keeps cycling till warm?


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Old 12-06-11, 06:22 PM
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Riello BF3 in a Kerr furnace keeps cycling till warm?

Hi, In March of 08' I installed a Kerr furnace with a Riello BF3
burner two line supply with spin-on filter with gauge and Field
Controls thru the wall direct venter. Last week I made the
mistake of having the discount oil company service and clean
the furnace. After (3) hours the tech finally was able to get the burner from cutting off. His suggestion was to replace it with a Beckett! Obviously he was not trained on a Riello. He replaced the O-ring with a gasket on the pump because it kept leaking.
After he left it it seemed ok. Then the next day it started cycling as it was doing when he was here. It will start and run for about 30 seconds and then cutout. After about 15 seconds it will restart and repeat this about (5) times and then be Ok! It never
trips the reset. To be fair this happened a few years ago and I tested or changed everything to no avail and then it stopped happening (I attributed it to bad fuel) until this recent service. At the time I checked fuel pressure (150lbs.) swapped pumps,
control unit, nozzle assembly etc. Any ideas? wrong nozzle?
It almost seems it won't keep running until it gets warm!

P.S. I just ordered a TigerLoop.
 
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Old 12-06-11, 07:32 PM
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I've run into this a couple of times. Once, I haven't a clue as to what "fixed" it. Once it seemed to be a draft problem. Riellos don't like a lot of draft. In fact, they prefer either neutral or even slightly positive pressure over the fire. Do you have any means of measuring draft?
 
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Old 12-06-11, 09:22 PM
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Hi Grady, Glad you responded. Yes I have a Dwyer 1200 combustion
test kit. I just ordered some more absorbent for the CO2 gauge.
It has a magnahelic draft gauge. What should I set it for? The manual calls for breech draft of 0.04" WC, but says not applicable for
Direct Vent.? Also, the service guy when I asked says they never
use instruments only on rare occasions. Is that a standard procedure for a yearly service? Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 12-07-11, 02:19 PM
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The breech draft isn't that important excecpt that it, in turn, influences the draft over the fire. You need to measure the draft over the fire & get it to no more than -0.02. Negative .01 or neutral (neither draft nor pressure). Power venters & oil burners, especially Riellos are a bad mix.

BTW: Find yourself a new service company. One who uses instruments on every heater.
 
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Old 12-07-11, 04:48 PM
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When I hold the damper open (Reducing the draft to 0.01) it seems to
correct it. But I haven't been able to check it cold yet! Why are power vents
Not campatible to oil burners? (Other than rotting out every few years!)
I replaced mine with all stainless steel and it seems to be lasting! Also how
Critcal is the correct nozzle 0.60 60W rather than a 0.65 60 SS. Thanks
 
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Old 12-07-11, 04:59 PM
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I have a gross disportionate numer of "fumes" calls on power vented oil burners as compared to chimney vented. On a large number of them I've had to increase the post purge (venter off delay) to 5 minutes or more. In all fairness, none that I can recall had the BF series burners.
Some burners are more pickey than others about their nozzle brand. I always try to replace with the manufacturer's recommended nozzle. This seems more important when the original was a Monarch or Hago rather than a Delavan.
 
 

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