Help installing new Primary control.


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Old 02-23-12, 08:51 PM
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Help installing new Primary control.

been lurking for a while trying to learn a little. but im trying to update a old becket afg burner on my old burnam furnace. been having lots of problems and lots of techs come out and clean things and furnace runs for a little while then starts acting up again, i have a old field power venter which the post purge has recently stoped working. also burner seems to start for 5 secs then shut off and restart again. the system is working but not corectly. everything was installed in 1991 so its old. i believe the old electronics need to be updated. i picked up a R7284u1004 primary control to replace my old one that has no model #( just grey box). i just need some help installing it.. iam a little confused with the jumpering of the TT terminals, do i have to jumper them. also there is a limit conection on the new primary, do i connect this? also i have a ppc-4 post purge switch that controls the power venter, can the new becket primary control the venter or do i still need the ppc-4 switch as i said earlier its not post purging half the time like it used to so i think the switch may be going bad.
sorry for the winded post, but the more i research this the more i get confused. thanks
 
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Old 02-24-12, 03:09 PM
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I don't know if the 7284 would carry the extra load of the power venter or not. I kind of doubt it. You really need to get the venter control replaced.
Wiring the 'U' model can be a a bit unnerving with all of the connections.
Before I can tell you how to wire it, I need to know if there is a electric solenoid valve on the 3/16" line going to the nozzle assembly.
 
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Old 02-25-12, 01:57 PM
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thanks for the help grady, the line your talking about is that the oil line from the oil pump? this is a old becket burner with a webster m34dj-3 oil pump with no electronics on it at all, looks all mechanical no electric solenoid anywhere. i did take off old primary and found sticker that said 45 sec delay, so should i set my new compterized primary for 45 sec also? thanks for the help
 
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Old 02-25-12, 04:07 PM
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I don't believe you can change the safety time but even if you can, leave it at the default 15 seconds.
Set the valve on delay at zero.
Set the motor off delay at zero.

Connect the L1 (black) & Limit (red) to the incoming power.

L2 (white) goes to incoming neutral, the motor white, & one side of the ignition transformer.

Motor (orange) connects to the motor black.

Ignition (blue) connects to the other side of the ignition transformer.

If you connect the Valve (violet) wire, make sure to put a wire nut on it.
 
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Old 02-25-12, 08:49 PM
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thanks again grady, i will try to install it tomorrow. it says i can set the safety timing to 15,30 or 45 sec. my old one says 45sec on it what does this even do or mean? also i can see my themostat red and white wires go to the aquastat TT terminals so do i have to jumper the TT terminals in the new primary? thanks a bunch
 
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Old 02-26-12, 01:09 PM
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The safety timing is the amout of time the burner will be allowed to run before the primary shuts it down in a case where there is a failure to ignite. In my opinion, if the burner fails to light in 5 seconds the control should shut down.

The primary can be configured to ignore the T-T terminals or you can jumper them. Your choice.

Note: The L1 & Limit wires will be connected to a wire coming from the aquastat's B1 terminal.
 
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Old 02-26-12, 07:59 PM
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i did install the primary today, but it doesn't seem to be wired right. the lcd display should have power and read STANDBY when furnace is not running. mine has no power at all when furnace is not running. i hooked L1 and limit wires to the B1 terminal on the aquastat but that only has power when furnace is running. can i run another wire from top of aquastat where line power comes in (#1 is hot, #2 is neutral). just one wire from the aquastats hot#1 down to the new primarys L1 terminal? will this give the primary power all the time? does it need constant power to remember my setup settings? thanks again
 
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Old 02-27-12, 05:43 PM
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Yes you could run a wire from L1 of the 7284 to L1 of the aquastat. Once programed, I don't think the 7284 needs a constant power to remember your settings but I don't see a wiring diagram where L1 does not go to a hot leg. I know the 7184 did not need a constant hot but it didn't have a display & the "program" was set by dip switches.
 
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Old 03-01-12, 04:07 PM
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I ran a wire from aquastat hot to primary L1 and now has power all the time works as it should. i have a question regarding one of the settings. the setup display says (TT configured on) then u have to pick either yes or no.if i set tt configured on to yes the unit fires right up, but my thermostat is conected to my aquastat not the primary. if i set TT configured on to off then the burner does not fire and just sits there with standby on the lcd screen. if i then jumper the TT screws on the primary with a piece of wire, it then fires up and runs normal.
what setting should i have this set to ON or OFF. the TT screws have 27 volts ac all the time no matter if set to ON or OFF. thanks again
 
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Old 03-01-12, 04:29 PM
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The way it is supposed to work with an aquastat is:

With the primary's T-T configuration set to on (yes) you would have to jumper the terminals.
With the configuration set to off (no), the primary disregards the T-T terminals & a jumper would not be needed.

If T-T is set to "on" & no jumper were installed, the display should show "standby" all the time.

The "off" setting supposedly activates an "internal jumper".
 
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Old 03-01-12, 05:13 PM
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thanks again Grady, this 7284u primary is exactly backwards to your post. i have it now set to NO and i have to use a jumper. if i change it to yes it will start with no jumper. o well im happy its just runnin with no lockouts so far, thanks for your help. i learned a lot.
also would u set primary to spark contantly like it had been doing for 20 years or set it to just spark when burner starts then shut off? does it change the burn or flame when spark is off?.
i have a pile of dead becket transformers i have to change them every year or two. hehe
thanks again Grady.
 
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Old 03-02-12, 03:40 AM
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I may misunderstand the operation of the T-T on/off programing. I've never used a 7284 having changed jobs about the time they were coming into use. The 7184, with which I'm more familiar didn't have that feature.

One thing that is the same is the ignition. I always shut the spark off after flame is proven. Electrodes will last much longer & in theory so should transfomers. I don't understand why you eat transformers so frequently. Even with the spark left on, it's not uncommon for them to last 15+ years.
 
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Old 03-04-12, 01:13 PM
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thanks again Grady for all your help, new primary is running good..
now i just have to look at my PPC-4 post purge switch and see why it only works sometimes. i see they made a PPC-5 but it looks discontinued.

thanks again. looks like i made all the way through winter without calling in a half dozen techs that never really fixed anything like i have done in the past.
 
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Old 03-04-12, 04:05 PM
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I'm sure if you call or e-mail Field Controls they will be able to tell you which control board fits your venter. Be sure to tell them the model &, if you can find it, the serial number of the venter. Whenever I've called them they have been most helpful.
 
 

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