Premier Heater problem HELP PLEASE

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  #1  
Old 01-27-01, 10:30 PM
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I have a Premier Heater Model Number GHB75D-10A manufacutured in 1981. It has ignition pilot automatic system. It doesn't have a standing pilot because it is automatic ignition through the ignitor. It seems that it just lights the burners with the ignitor, also has a sensor rod. Went to purchase ignitor box originally because the gas company service person said that was the problem because it wouldn't spark to ignite the burners. It was not in stock. Heater parts referred me to the retrofit kit for heater, but there was no standing pilot on my system and he said he never saw a unit like that and said there might be a recall on it. Although the heater has worked since I bought the house in 1986 it is completely out now. Also, the parts person told me that I could clean the ignitor and the sensor because they wouldn't spark if they were dirty so I took sandpaper and I was able to make them spark by crossing the thermostat wires at the transformer but evidently the gas valve didn't open and it didn't fire up.
 
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  #2  
Old 01-28-01, 07:39 AM
PDF
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Usually

On a call for heat,ignitor sparks,lights pilot,sensor reconizes a flame,sends signal to open main gas valve.If you are not lighting the pilot or you have no pilot flame,remove pilot assembly CAREFULLY and clean the tiny orifice hole.If it is plugged your unit will not go thru the other sequences.PDF
 
  #3  
Old 01-28-01, 10:00 AM
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Thanks PDF for your prompt reply. Being in Maine you must really have to be a heating expert.
I not sure your reply answers my question because my heater unit has no pilot, it is an automatic ignition spark unit. So there is no orifice in the pilot to clean because there is no pilot.
The burner is ignited through the ignitor system and sensor only. The sensor is only a little rod next to the ignitor.
Thank you for your reply.
 
  #4  
Old 01-28-01, 11:50 AM
lynn comstock
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The little rod does a double duty.
1) The spark jumps the gap from the rod to the burner. That is why it must be clean. The GAP is critical (like a spark plug). Experiment a bit. 1/8 to 1/4 inch should do it. A longer gap makes a hotter, bigger spark. Get to long and it won't spark at all.
2) When the burner lights, the flame changes the electrical properties of the gap and the ignition system "proves" the flame so the heat cycle can continue safely.

It sounds like the ignition system has no power or is defective or the gap is too wide. The gap issue is the easiest for a novice to deal with.
 
  #5  
Old 01-28-01, 12:35 PM
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Thanks, Lynn for the reply.
What would be the most likely problem from no power. I jumped the power from the thermostat conection at the transformer and ignitor arched over the burner, but there was no flame after I did the regular light up procedure. Could it possibly be a limit switch or transformer or gas valve itself?
Thank you.
 
  #6  
Old 01-30-01, 07:48 PM
lynn comstock
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Some furnaces have manual reset switches especially for flame rollout. Look around and look at the wiring diagram for clues. A manual reset typically has a button to push. The most thoughtful engineers make the RED.
 
  #7  
Old 02-19-01, 11:09 AM
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Smile furnace was repaired and is working fine

ignitor box was replaced and it works fine now
thanks for all your suggestions and help
 
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