Beckett oil burner model# SA556YKPA-5733 ?

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Old 02-07-13, 04:23 PM
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One more thing,what or where is the heat exchanger located and what should I look for as far as it leaking or being cracked ect. Also I have a multi meter Fluke 88 the newest one out which is capable of working on high voltage electronics, anything that a home can handle I also have an amp clamp for home electrical stuff. so I should be able to test the electronic parts or the heater also..
 
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  #42  
Old 02-07-13, 04:58 PM
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You're most welcome. Glad I had the manual I could share.

The heat exchanger is all of the metal inside the furnace jacket including the 'radiator' which curves up behind the blower.

As a quick & dirty heat exchanger inspection while the burner is out, you can put a bright drop light into the chamber (be careful--chamber is quite fragile) & look for light thru the tubes visible after removing the blower. If you elect to do this, I suggest removing the cage from the drop light.

For a more complete inspection you'd have to delve deeply into the furnace which requires removal of the front panel, burner mounting plate, & chamber. I don't think that's something you want to get into in the midst of the heating season. We'll tackle that in the spring.
 
  #43  
Old 02-18-13, 05:24 PM
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Well so far so good again, after I cleaned the cad cell the heater is working good, don't know for how long this time, I haven't dug into it yet just trying to keep it running till the spring hits, fingers crossed.
 
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Old 02-18-13, 06:42 PM
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Glad to hear all is well so far. Hope it continues at least 'til spring when we can really tear into it & give it a good & proper cleaning.

The telepathy must be working albeit a bit slow. I was thinking about you last night.

If you have any more trouble with the heater, don't hestitate to holler & I'll do what I can to help. Come spring, when you think you're ready to dig in to it, give me a shout & I'll walk you thru the cleaning. In the mean time, stay warm & stay well.
 
  #45  
Old 02-19-13, 08:01 AM
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Brian,
The one thing I haven't read in any of the posts is bleeding the fuel line. You have posted some really good pics and in every one of them I am seeing fuel oil and or staining from fuel oil. This is usually caused by air in the fuel supply. When you start or stop the furnace the fuel will dribble out of the end of the nozzle then down the air tube and into the bottom of the burner housing. When the furnace turns on the burner blower then causes the fuel to blow about inside the housing and everything gets wet. If you put your hand on the bottom of the housing and wipe it with a paper towel, is it wet with fuel? The pic of the cad cell actually has a drip of fuel laying in the bottom of the cad cell. If the furnace operates on a regular basis and there is air in the system it may continue to run, not the best, but it may run. When the t-stat is turned down at night, the furnace doesn't run sometimes for hours. Air accumulates into a big enough pocket and the furnace may not be able to purge itself of the air and light the fire. Then you have to push the reset button a few times and get it going.
I would have to think that the fuel system has been bled a few times by reading the posts. The service tech should have done it when he was there and if you pulled the burner you most likely had to bleed the pump to get it going again. To get the best result you should get a short piece of clear tube to fit on the bleed valve and bleed the fuel into a plastic container like an old soda bottle, cooking oil bottle or something like that. I like to drill a hole in the cap of the bottle and insert the hose so it will stay in the bottle. When you bleed the fuel, use a 3/8" wrench, crack open the bleed valve about 1/2 turn to get a steady stream of fuel when the pump is running, it needs to bleed out looking clear like cherry wine. If there is air in the system it will be a milky red color. You need to keep bleeding until the fuel is clear. If this takes long enough (45 sec) or so, the primary control will trip and shut off the burner. If so make sure you shut the bleed valve (just snug) and start over again until you get clear fuel. Do this again in a day or so. It should still be clear.
Sorry to hear about the company that worked on your furnace. The Miller that you have is one of the easiest furnaces possible to work on.
Did you attempt to inspect your heat exchanger?
 
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Old 02-20-13, 04:38 PM
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Thanks Grady I do appreciate everything you have walked me threw and help me figure out. when the summer come I hope you are still on here.
 
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